I see alot of posts on different oils and opinions about them and very helpful info. on them. One oil I haven't captured any info. on is Royal Purple. I have seen it used on some industrial applications (rotating equipment) with good results, however, I've been unable to find out what their basestock is, who their primary supplier is, where they blend it and really anything else about their process (Except the little history on their website).
I've been seriously considering switching to a syn. and would like some real-life experience and data on this oil. I already know it's purple and it's expensive $5.82 qt.
Thanks!

 

As with most of the boutique motor oils you have to read thru the BS and then take a good educated guess as to what is really there. The virgin analysis goes like this:

Moly 110
Magnesium 10
Zinc 867
Phospherus 786
Calcium 1670
TBN 8.0
Flashpoint 400 F

The analysis will not show an additve they call Synertec. Now comes the song and dance with their MSDS, the basestock is listed as "Synthetic additives with iso-parafinic diluents (read group III dino). So take your pick as what you want to believe its basestock is actually. It has been known to oxidize quickly which is not favorable. For comparison, here is the lowly Mobil One in 0w-30

Moly 75
Boron 180
Calcium 2650
Magnesium 15
Phospherus 850
Zinc 955
Flahpoint 445 F
TBN 12.5

I would suggest if you are needing a synthetic oil, go with the M1

 

I could give you feedback on them, but you wouldn't like the results.

Anyhow Amsoil did a comparison(whatever that is worth).

Like Labnerd said stick with Mobil 1.

Though the 0w30 doesn't seem to hold up as well as the 5w30/10w30 in regards to viscosity retention.

 

Enough said. Thanks fella's!!!

 

Gee, I take
Calcium
Magnesium
Zinc

vitamins every day. I should be running better.

I don't think I'll try the other though.


Pete

 

Hey what about Red Line!!!

It's a class V lubricant!!!

Very cool, but expensive.

 

mf150,
Here is the data on Redline 10w-30.

Moly 611
Potassium 25
Boron 18
Silicon 14
Sodium 10
Calcium 2535
Phosphorus 1023
Zinc 1005
TBN 13.5

Redline does not hold its TBN long therefore I wouldn't suggest running it more than 5000 miles. One qt of Redline has more moly than 6 qts of GTX and that's a lot. For someone that has a street rod that takes it to the strip on weekends this could be a good choice. It also thickens with mileage and may effect gas mileage. I don't show if it is API certified so you may want to check on that. For the average motorist, there is not enough usable benefit to justify the cost.

 

How is Castrol syntec 5-50 ive been using it in my 97 4.6 since 6,000mi now has 98,000, and no problems.

 

msparks:

I am very open for info on syn oils, what feedback could you give us on these oils? Don't worry, I don't have any vested interest in any particular oil so I'm not going to argue about them. I just like to hear others info. When you say 0w30 doesn't hold up as well what do you mean? I am currently using 10w30 Mobil 1 (switching to 5w30 because wal-mart doesn't have 10w30 now) and I'm about to do a 5000 mile change with testing by Blackstone. This is my first time testing and mostly doing it as a learning exp. Also, the report from what I see can diagnose my engine like a blood test for humans. I picked this truck up used w/84k and would like to have an indication that the motor is going to hold for another 80k (currently 103k). Looks like they can diagnose the types of metals that may be in oil and possible cause for those metals. I'm also running a K&N drop-in and would like to see if it's filtering properly. Seems to be conflicting info on this subject too. I'm considering 6-7k oil chg interval if the tests show good results.

Thanks...

 

Labnerd~

Where in the heck did you find those findings? I emailed Dave Grandquist at Red Line and those numbers seem "out there." Which oil are you reading from?

 

The numbers are from a virgin oil analysis, out of a fresh unopened bottle at the time. Redline is also very tight lipped about what is in the bottle so I wouldn't find his reaction out of the ordinary. Most inquiries come back as proprietary information.

 

For all you ever wanted to know about oils, and more, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

Just for my info. what Red Line oil did those numbers come from? They have two different lines...racing and API (CH-4/CF/SJ/SH) and SAE certified. From what I understand, the motor oil (non-racing synthetic) They use a straight polyol ester basestock. This basestock is superior to any other basestock on the market. As for the benifits to price ratio, I have a whole other set of numbers sent from an "outside" oil analysis company. When I have more time, I will post their findings as well as the direct source of the analysis so that there is no confusion. Please post your source material so that I may research what you propose. Maybe your source was bias? I'm not one to believe things I read just because someone says it as I am sure you are not. There are tons of critics, but for every critic, there are proponents. I have had *NO* problem with any of REd Line's products. In fact it is the only oil that I use in my vehicle, which is my personal choice, as all would agree.

If you have any questions about the Red Line products, you can email Dave Granquist through www.redlineoil.com or call him personally at 707-745-6100 and he will take as much time as needed and in a very candid mannor answer any questions you may have about his company's formulation and the effects of running their oil beyond 5,000mi. (the only reason why I change mine every 5,000mi is because I'm still on warrenty) and how their product actually improves as it is used unlike any other product. The point I am trying to make, and it irritates me when people post things that are not solidly based on factual scientifically sound methods, is that we are all free to choose what ever oil we like, but don't bash another company's product just because you found 1 oil sample that came up high in Moly. Anyone who uses Red Line would agree that it is the best oil that have used, albeit...expensive! If I have come at this in a combative or overly passionate mannor, please forgive me.



mf150


For further inquires just check out www.redlineoil.com.

 

I though moly was good? According to Bob the oil guy, moly is probably the only additive that is actually good for your engine.

 

MF150,

Well said, I feel the same about Royal Purple, I have used it and Mobil 1 and am happy with both. If any oil was junk and caused problems it would not last very long on todays market. We all have personal preferences but it irritates me when someone says that a product that has been on the market for a significent amount of time is strictly no good. You can read the same thing on these boards for mufflers for instance, my preference is flowmaster for right now, but I would be willing to try magnaflow, gibson, etc in the future.

Lets recommend the product we like but not bash the other guy's product.