I just traded in my '97 x-cab 4X4 for a '01 supercrew 4X4 w/5.4. With 43,000 miles I need a few opinions on whether or not to switch over to synthetics? Also, I liked the 4.6, most folks tell me I'll like the 5.4 even more. I don't doubt this, but, my concern is, what can I expect my gas mileage to be?

 

In my humble opinion, it's never too late for synthetics!Unless you're not planning on keeping it more than a couple years. Maybe an engine flush first wouldn't be a bad idea...
I just got a 2000 Volvo S80 with 42k miles and I'm puttin' in Amsoil.
As for mileage... my '97 Expy with the 5.4l and 3.73 rear gets ~16mpg on the highway.... with a tailwind!
You don't want to know what I get when towing!

Great trucks though!

 

I agree it is not too late. I have a Screw w/ 44000 and I am switching. I will also flush the system with the Amsoil flush kit

 

The 5.4 will sell itself to you once you drive it. Unfortunately the mileage isn't the greatest, 16 or so hwy, 12-13 city. I guess it really is great considering the weight its pulling around, but they are a great vehicle to drive.

 

Changed mine to Mobil 1 @86k. Have 102k now.

 

Nick, while this forum doesn't have the room for me to explain all the ins and outs of motor oil, the question is "do you have a need for a synthetic". Unless you are driving in a high heat environment, pulling a trailer, or extended idling, you won't "need" a synthetic. If you are thinking that wear will be reduced in normal driving you would be wrong and I will provide you with the numbers if you like. There are also different types of synthetics-ALL are made from basestocks. You will hear names like PAO's, esters, Group III's, all are some form of basestocks. The Mobil One is probably the most popular OTC synthetic and it is a PAO and ester mix. The esters are there primarily because of the engine seals otherwise you would have constant oil leaks. The Group III would included Chevron Supreme or any ISO/SYN marked oil. Most importantly though, your enginr requires an API Certified oil. Some of the synthetics are not API certified such as some listed above. The advantages of the synthetics is their ability to withstand oxidation at high temps, otherwise they have no advantage.

 

Thank you Labnerd.

I have always said, how many engines have you seen that failed because a person did not use synthetic oil?

 

To answer your question about synthetic oil, no it is not to late. Bought the 87 Brat that I drive to work with 139k and switched to 10w-30 Mobile 1. It now has 181k with no problems. I would consider it a waste of money if you did not plan on keeping the truck several years as 97expy said. Labnerd has missed one big benefit of synthetic oil and that is cold start ups the oil flows faster than conventional oil. Hope you enjoy your truck.

 

Home skillet
An engine with the proper dino oil that is changed at the recommended intervals will not fail and I have never seen or heard of one failing. I have seen engines fail on synthetics.

Bratman,
You have been getting wrong info. A 5w-X oil, synthetic or dino has the same flow rate at zero degrees. Because the modern dinos have improved radically over the last 10 years, most dinos have the same/equal pour points as synthetics. This of course applies to the OTC synthetics, not synthetics designed for artic use which you aren't going to find at Walmart. But lets look further. Most damage to an engine occurs at startup. Almost everybody agrees on that statement. So why do synthetics usually have higher wear metals per mile than dino?

Nick,
If it gives you a warm fuzzy feeling to have synthetics in your engine there is no reason that you can't use it. If an engine has had good maintenance concerning oil changes and sludge is not a problem, you can change to synthetic at 100,000 miles if you like. If the internal cleanliness is in question don't use it at any mileage.

 

I've changed quite a few vehicles over to synthetic that have had over 100,000 miles. No problems!

I would recommend that you do an engine flush like described above, this will remove any deposits that have built up. With a quality synthetic, you should have no more deposits.

Another product that I have seen that seems to work well is Auto-RX. This is an engine cleaner that you run with the old oil for about 500 miles. The organic esters slowly eat away sludge and varish, without sacrificing the viscosity of the oil. Pretty coold stuff, though I have never used it myself. (only because I buy new vehicles and switch them to synthetics immediately.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

As far as synthetics go, I would stick with one that uses PAO/Esters, and not just the group III hydrocracked base oils.

The PAO/Esters, have higher temp protection, as well as natural solvency for keeping your engine deposit free!!

Good Luck with you new truck.

 

Umm do you know this for a fact? Try the freezer test, you will see that synthetics will pour much easier at 0 degrees than a conventional.

Yes conventional oils have come a long way in the last 10 years only because of the advent of hydrocracking that was developed by chevron, where they can remove more waxes, but a true PAO/Ester based synthetic will always have a lower pour point and CCS viscosity than a conventional based oil of the same viscosty, no matter if its Group I, II, or III.

Problem with chosing a synthetic over a conventional is the cost. Not performance.

 

Appreciate the info fella's. I fully understand that the protection parameters aren't much greater in syn's, I have worked in the industrial machinery field for about 14 yrs, plus all the info is available on the net, I just wanted to get some "real time" opinions on the switch over. My main reason for the switch is to extend my change intervals. Since, I have really never seen a considerable advantage to syn's (not enough to justify the cost anyway) I've never used them. Now with some lower cost syn's available (Havoline, which is the conv oil that I have used for years) I can see that there may be an advantage of me not crawling under my vehicles quite as often (since I don't trust a $7.50 an hour oil change tech under my vehicles). Thanks for the input fella's!!!

 

Ive got a question for ya, i got a "deal" on some straight syn a while back. Its been setting around my garage for over a year. I finally put it in the other day just cause i didnt have enough castrol 5-20. It was castrol syn 10-30. My question is this. I have heard that once u put in syn u should not change back to dino. Is this true or just bs? U seem to know alot about this so that is why i asked. I am doing a little experiment myself, i am gonna see if the syn is any cleaner at the end of my oil change. If it is, i might start running it, if not i am gonna run my dino again (if safe). I only tow about once a week. No need for it if it is not going to be any cleaner. THanks

 

You can always change to dino but not always to to synthetic. The issue is with the seals and not the lubricating qualities of each. Depending on the synthetic that you use, it may not be a true synthetic at all. I noticed your mentioning Castrol. Castrol and Mobil were involved in litigation concerning ISO/SYN Group III oils which are severely hydrocracked petroleum molecules. Castrol won the rights for all oil companies to market the Group III's as a synthetic. Castrol SYN is a Group III. Also, Chevron Supreme is a Group III but they don't market it as such and it is a bargain for $1.08 at Walmart. Mobil One and most of the "boutique" synthetics are PAO's and esters. PAO's do nothing for seals and without the esters your seals would shrink and your engine leak oil faster than you could put it in. PAO's are also made from petroleum basestocks by a different process. Hope this helps.

 

I'm with MSPARKS Auto-rx is the stuff to use. check out the web site an follow Franks instructions to the t and you will have positive results.