Can we put lock tite on the sparkplugs so we wouldn't have to worry about the blowout problem? I would seriosly think about doing this, since im kind of worried about that happening.

 

Seriously? You could but I don't recommend it. THen you can never get the spark plugs out. What if one gets fouled? Then you have to replace the head anyway. Or, what about in 60-80k miles when you want to change the plugs again? The chances of getting spark plug blowout are still very, very small.

 

Nooooo!!!! Although locktite is not permanent I wouldn't use it on the sparkplugs. Use a good antisieze and torque them down to spec.

 

Well, i guess i'll just let it be. Im not going to use anything. I heard that antisieze makes it more probable for it to happen. I was just worried because im installing a supercharger soon.

You can get lock tite that isn't permanant, and easy to break loose.

 

One thing is that Lock-Tite can act as an insulator electrical as well as thermally. Not giving you a good ground or heat path for your plugs. So you may lose some performance as well as foul plugs. IMO

 

Locktite is a pretty interesting idea. There are many different kinds of Locktite also, not just the 3 or 4 you find in the hardware store. I have a catalog at work I can look at on Monday. There may be one that is conductive and would break away under reasonable force. But, I'd be careful using nothing on the plugs because steel and aluminium can bond together stronger than any locktite, you could wreak your head even worse than a stripped plug hole. I'm sure the coating on the plugs is designed to stop the bond but it could still happen.

 

Maybe I'm missing something here, but it seems to me that locktite wouldn't do a darn thing to deal with a plug blowout. Isn't the supposed issue the small number of threads not being strong enough to hold the plug in? When they blow, do they not take the threads right out with them? Locktite would do nothing to strengthen the threads themselves - it would only resist the shearing force from the rotation of the plug only.

Still way to much paranoia about this issue, IMHO.

 

Yes gopher you are missing something here!

The 4 spark plug threads don't tear out at one time when the plug blows. First the plug works loose from engine vibration (probably due to the coil mounted on top) , once the plug is loose it sits in the 4 threads and vibrates up and down as the piston sucks in gas/air and exausts co2. this vibrating up and down is the warning ticking sound that some owners noticed prior to the plug blowing. As the plug vibrates up and down the steel treads on the spark plug cut the 4 aluminum threads like a cutting tool. I don't know how much time it takes for the 4 aluminum threads to wear away enough to blow the plug but I don't think it would take to much time before you hear the dreaded POP !
I don't like to guess so I don't have any opinion on using lock-tite to keep the plug form loosining up.

 

Don't use lock tite on sparkplugs unless the package describes sparkplugs as an application for its use.

The lock tite I have seen does not meet the extreme temperature requirements for sparkplugs. Look for "anti-seize" that shows sparkplugs as one of its applications.

I vote no!

 

i've never heard of a plug blowout problem on a 4.6. What engine do you have. (some reports of plug blowouts on the 5.4 but not the other engines) Regardless, i would use antiseize on the threads. I do not recommend any kind of loc tite on the plug threads. just my 2 cents.

 

I’m not posting this to be controversial, but just to express a different opinion. I think the traditional Loctite is not a good idea. The insulation thing may just be a real problem. It will have nothing to do with fouling, but with heat transfer. I have seen plugs that could not transfer heat away and actually melted.

I also never use anti-seize on spark plugs. Traditional sliver anti-seize is not made for aluminum to steel mating anyway. I have seen some types that say they are for this but I still don’t use it. Plus that stuff gets screaming hot, and could leak through the threads and into the engine on the first few heat cycles. The real metal to metal should be better for heat transfer. I’m sure I’ll be directed to an example promptly, buy why don’t the OEMs use it on plugs from the factory.

Now I really don’t want to start a flame thing here, but your best protection against plug blowout is a torque wrench. I’ll bet a great many of them could be prevented with the use of one. I’m SURE that some torqued plugs have blown out, so you don’t have to tell me.

I just torqued the plugs in my 2002 5.4l with 40,000 miles. I thought I heard a ticking noise. The third plug back on the passenger side moved some before the click, none of the rest did … one was a bit loose.

 

No anti-seize on plugs from the factory, interesting. Has it always been that way or is it only with aluminum engine components? Iron to Iron might weld but Iron to Aluminum? Maybe its not needed on aluminum heads...

Research in progress...

Wow, its enough to make a person's head spin. I might be able to condense the research into something shorter than a War and Peace Novel and post some of it here later. I see I have been living in the stone ages when it comes to anti-seize.

 

when i repaired and replaced my plugs i put a drop of oil on the threads and torqued the plugs down. i then loosened them and retorqued. i did this 3 time to make sure the seat was seated correct. if the seat of the plug has a peice of dirt or metal under it,that piece will wear away causing the plug to loose its torque and become loose. If you use antisieze you should reduce the torque applied. i dont think thread lock is a good idea
just my $0.02

 

I have a 99 Expy with a 5.4L. From what I am understanding about plug blow out, is that sometimes the plugs are not torqued down from the factory. I have heard alot of the Lightning owners have found lose plugs from the dealer . I have changed mine twice now and have not had any problems. I put just a dab of die-electric grease on the threads before i put them in and then thread them in by hand until they are tight then back it off just a bit and retighten by hand to make sure that they are seated. Then i put the ratchet to them. Sometimes they can get into a little bit of a bind (not cross thread) and u put them into a bind with a ratchet you might think they are all the way in when they arent. Then the possibility of a blow out is greater.

 

Ok, here is some of the research...

This says not to use low-temp product with aluminum. Some spark plugs come with anti-seize so do some research first.

http://www.gomog.com/plus8/plus8seize.html

Nickel is used on sparkplugs to help prevent seizure. Spark plugs left in for extended periods are more apt to seize up.

http://brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/2001MAR/20139748.shtml

This says to reduce torque by 25% when using their anti-seize product.

http://www.mrmoly.com/anti-seize_compound.html

A good link...

http://www.autosite.com/garage/encyclop/ency04d.asp

The #1 sparkplug in my 1999 F150 5.4L engine at 46,000 miles. It does not appear to have anti-seize on the threads. It took about 20 foot pounds of torque to break it loose.