Cruise Control/Remote Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Eighty Four, PA
Cruise Control/Remote Starter
I recently installed a "factory" remote start system on a 2001 F-150 Supercrew which has a 5.4L engine. I had a difficult time locating a wire to connect for the tach signal. After checking various web sites and message forums, I found that a white/pink wire located at the body control module under and behind the battery tray was the best location for this connection. After the connection was made and all parts were reassembled, we tested the voltage and found that when the engine was revved, the voltage at this junction decreased. The instructions suggested a change in voltage would be noticed (did not say positive or negative), so we thought we had the right wire. All seemed to be working fine until I initiated the cruise control a few days ago. The cruise held fine while the road was flat or uphill. However, when going downhill, the engine seemed to cut out (I noticed the tach dropped) instead of allowing the vehicle to coast as had always been the case. The engine did not completely cut out, just for a few brief seconds.
Has anyone had this happen to them or could anyone explain the significance of the white/pink wire at the body control module? I really can't understand how the two systems would be related, especially as the remote starter is disabled while driving.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Has anyone had this happen to them or could anyone explain the significance of the white/pink wire at the body control module? I really can't understand how the two systems would be related, especially as the remote starter is disabled while driving.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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From: Eighty Four, PA
JMC:
The vehicle wires which were tapped into include the following:
Starter interrupt, ignition, heater wires, 2 main power wires, parking lights, brake lights, key-in-sense, horn, power lock and unlock, dome light, and tach input. Each of the above connections were checked per the instructions. As mentioned in the opening post, I was unsure about how the voltmeter responded with engine RPM's. I am beginning to wonder about the white/pink wire out of the body control module. Is that wire in fact tachometer-based?
The vehicle wires which were tapped into include the following:
Starter interrupt, ignition, heater wires, 2 main power wires, parking lights, brake lights, key-in-sense, horn, power lock and unlock, dome light, and tach input. Each of the above connections were checked per the instructions. As mentioned in the opening post, I was unsure about how the voltmeter responded with engine RPM's. I am beginning to wonder about the white/pink wire out of the body control module. Is that wire in fact tachometer-based?
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Joined: Dec 1997
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Try a Speed Control Self-Test Diagnostics.
Self-Test Diagnostics
WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
1. Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
— 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
— 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
5. Return ignition switch to the OFF position.
Let me know how it goes.
JMC
Self-Test Diagnostics
WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
1. Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
— 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
— 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
5. Return ignition switch to the OFF position.
Let me know how it goes.
JMC
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Bradford, PA
Originally posted by DeanSk
As mentioned in the opening post, I was unsure about how the voltmeter responded with engine RPM's. I am beginning to wonder about the white/pink wire out of the body control module. Is that wire in fact tachometer-based?
As mentioned in the opening post, I was unsure about how the voltmeter responded with engine RPM's. I am beginning to wonder about the white/pink wire out of the body control module. Is that wire in fact tachometer-based?
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Eighty Four, PA
Medic:
The voltmeter was set on a scale which read both AC and DC. As the engine rpm's were increased, the voltmeter reading decreased. However, the readings would have been hard to record as they seemed to bounce a bit. In either case, the readings were a lower level voltage as the rpm's were increased.
The voltmeter was set on a scale which read both AC and DC. As the engine rpm's were increased, the voltmeter reading decreased. However, the readings would have been hard to record as they seemed to bounce a bit. In either case, the readings were a lower level voltage as the rpm's were increased.