I installed the ASP pulleys yesterday (2/8/03). Here's a few tips if you are going to install a set:

1. Remove the air intake, MAF and filter before you do anything else. I just loosened the intake from the throttle body and kinda' pushed it all up onto the engine out of the way.

2. Get a piece of cardboard big enough to cover the entire radiator. Loosen the shroud bolts, lift it up a bit and push it towards the engine. Slide the cardboard between the shroud and the radiator. Put the shroud back, re-install the bolts and work knowing that a slip won't remove all the skin from your knuckles or bend up the cooling fins on the radiator.

3. You will need an impact wrench if you are going to install them by yourself. I had help and we got by without the impact.

4. You will probably have to make a simple tool to help hold the fan pulley for removal and re-installation (a piece of flat aluminum or steel with holes for bolts strategically drilled to fit the fan pulley).

5. Remove the fan and shroud together as a pair. Be sure to use the shroud bolts to hold the radiator cardboard in place after the shroud and fan are out.

6. The giant fan nut is not a left-hand thread. As far as that goes, none of the bolts you will be removing are.

7. According to the instructions that came with the unit, 1999 and 2000 5.4L engines require that an unused, threaded aluminum "tip" that is sticking out at about 4 o'clock on the front engine cover will have to be ground off for the water pump pulley to clear. They need to add 2001 models to that list as well. That chore alone took me 30 minutes. However, you don't have to grind it off entirely. Get a Dremel with the little cutting discs (I used 4 total) and just take your time and grind away the inner area where the pulley rubs. Mine is still intact and a bolt could be put in it if I needed to.

8. While doing all this grinding, be sure to cover everything you can. That aluminum dust and the debris from the cutting wheels really makes a mess.

9. You will definitely need a harmonic balancer puller. I bought a Craftsman at Sears for $20. However, the Craftsman only comes with 2 of the 4", 3/8"-16 bolts you will need. Be sure to buy another from Home Depot (about a $1.00) before you start.

10. You will need some silicone sealant for the harmonic balancer re-installation. I also made another flat aluminum tool to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it. BTW, the bolt on my 'Screw required an 18mm socket for removal. Use a six sided socket for removal 'cause that baby is on there pretty good.

11. The factory size belt works fine with the new set of pulleys.

Impressions:

My power steering is a little bit sluggish at idle. Come off idle and it feels normal. All other accessories seem to be OK. I'm sure at idle the alternator's output has been reduced, but I can't say by how much.

I have not had a chance to test the power response yet. I finished at 2:30 AM and it was raining. Every time I tried to get on it hard, the rear end broke loose (even on the highway) which made it hard to judge what improvement there may be.

I'll post more once I get a chance to try her out...

 

Thanks for the detailed instructions...I was planning on doing the same install soon, probably next month. However, it doesn't appear to be as easy as I assumed it would be.

 

How long did it take you?

 

crain -

It really isn't that bad, it is just time consuming and hard on your lower back. I'm 6'2" and could lean in and reach without too much problem. My friend who helped is 5'9" and he needed a step for most of the time.

If you want some friendly advice, shop around for the pulleys. I found out after the fact that Ford Motorsport makes a set as well.

I personally think the harmonic balancer should be a tad larger and the water pump pulley should be a tad smaller. I say this because this morning on the way to work it was raining, dark and warm (humid). Sounds wonderful, huh? Anyway, I had the lights, A/C, defroster, stereo and wipers running simultaneously. Guess what? My lights dim at idle, especially when the fans kick on. I now notice that my truck idles at 550-600 rpm now, where it used to idle right at 700. I don't like this scenario. (Those numbers are in Drive; if I'm in Park or Neutral, the idle is perfect)

I am going to wait until Mike T. comes back to discuss. If he can't offer some info on upping the idle back where it belongs or something to resolve the issue, I'm probably gonna' put the factory pulleys back on.

I'll post what my resolution is, once I figure it out...

 

What did you do to bust the Balancer bolt loose ? I couldn't get mine to budge !

 

This thread is 5 years old - In case you didn't notice.

 

Yes it is Jbrew, but it should still come loose, they are only supposed to be torqued to 90 Ft.Lbs. then backed of a full turn, then down to 45 Ft.Lbs, and a 1/4 turn I think, I have tried first with my small impact wrench, then I went and bought a new one with 625 lbs of torque, still wouldn't budge, tried a strap wrench on the pulley and breaker bar with a helper pipe on the bolt and it still doesnt budge, someone suggested it is a left hand thread, but I don't think it is, any ideas ?

 

Start a new thread with exactly what your trying to do. You'll get some ideas that way.

 

Nevermind, you already have - Didn't see it.