single digit tempatures, do you warm up your engine?
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ive lived in california all my life so this is all quite foriegn to me. I do start, wait til it idles down then shif and drive easy until it warms. Then its WOT all the way. 
Anyway, what is square tire syndrome im wondering?
Oh btw its like 70 out today but it was a scorching 85 a few days ago. Man i love CA sometimes.
Anyway, what is square tire syndrome im wondering?Oh btw its like 70 out today but it was a scorching 85 a few days ago. Man i love CA sometimes.
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From: Lakeville, Minnesota, USA
Square tires result from the temperture being so cold. The contact patch with the ground literally freezes into a flat spot on the tire! 
When you start moving, you feel it every time that frozen spot hits the ground. It eventually warms up and goes away after a short time.
Last night was -20 F. We should reach a balmy 10 F today, but at least its sunny!
So long as you are using the recommended weight oil (5w30 or 5w20), just being below freezing is hardly a test for the oil on the startup. Oil with a 5 as the first number have to pass a test at -35 C to qualify as that weight of oil.
When you start moving, you feel it every time that frozen spot hits the ground. It eventually warms up and goes away after a short time.Last night was -20 F. We should reach a balmy 10 F today, but at least its sunny!
So long as you are using the recommended weight oil (5w30 or 5w20), just being below freezing is hardly a test for the oil on the startup. Oil with a 5 as the first number have to pass a test at -35 C to qualify as that weight of oil.
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Originally posted by gopher
Square tires result from the temperture being so cold. The contact patch with the ground literally freezes into a flat spot on the tire! When you start moving, you feel it every time that frozen spot hits the ground. It eventually warms up and goes away after a short time.
Square tires result from the temperture being so cold. The contact patch with the ground literally freezes into a flat spot on the tire!
When you start moving, you feel it every time that frozen spot hits the ground. It eventually warms up and goes away after a short time.
oh man thats funny as hell.
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Right on. Every car I own, I will warm it up in the winter a good 5 minutes.
Originally posted by SLCScrew
I don't drive my truck every day. In fact, it can sit in the garage for 4-5 days between drives. During that time, the oil drains into the pan, and thickens (especially during the winter). There is no way I'm going to jump in my 2003 and drive off with no warm up after 5 days of below freezing temperatures (Summer is a different story). I agree with spaceman12321. There's so much talk about piston slap that goes away after it's warmed a little, yet so many people are against warm ups. Is the $0.25 you save on gas worth the wear and stress you put on an engine because you jump in and take off? Who wastes more gas: The guy who warms his truck for 2-5 minutes and then drives normally? or the guy who jumps in and takes off with no warm up? Truly I don't know, but I'd say the difference is almost negligable. Any thoughts?
I don't drive my truck every day. In fact, it can sit in the garage for 4-5 days between drives. During that time, the oil drains into the pan, and thickens (especially during the winter). There is no way I'm going to jump in my 2003 and drive off with no warm up after 5 days of below freezing temperatures (Summer is a different story). I agree with spaceman12321. There's so much talk about piston slap that goes away after it's warmed a little, yet so many people are against warm ups. Is the $0.25 you save on gas worth the wear and stress you put on an engine because you jump in and take off? Who wastes more gas: The guy who warms his truck for 2-5 minutes and then drives normally? or the guy who jumps in and takes off with no warm up? Truly I don't know, but I'd say the difference is almost negligable. Any thoughts?
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From: Wisconsin
It was 5* this morning, so I tried the 30 seconds and drive plan. As a result I have formed an opinion. It may sound a little rough, but intentionally to make a point.
Those who say 30 seconds warm up is all you need in any temp falls into one of the following categories.
[list=1][*]Has never started an engine when the temp is a single digit[*]Parks in a garage (if attached see item 1)[*]Has an engine heater (see item 1)[*]Doesn't venture out until after the sun is shining[/list=1]
This is truely a fact, let me present the proof.
I have to scrape the windows first, because I know I can't scrape them in 30 seconds. At 20* there is ice on the windows, at 5* it's more like super ice. I have to scrape harder and longer and the scraper does not bend, so all it get is thin scrape lines.
By the time I am finished I am buffing a bit and know better than to drive with cold windows until I catch my breath, so back into the house to warm up. Five minutes later I'm ready, but the windows are frosted and I need to scrape them again.
A quick scrape of the windows and I'm ready to start and drive. The front window is frosted by the time I reach the end of the driveway, and I can just barely see. Two miles down the road my windows are cleared, and so is my thinking on warming up an engine at 5*.
The 30 second warmup theory applies to temps above 10*, and below that we have a new theory. I'm not sure what it is, but I would start with add one minute for every 5* under 20*, plus the time it takes to get some heat to your window defroster.
Anything beyond that is wasting gas.
Those who say 30 seconds warm up is all you need in any temp falls into one of the following categories.
[list=1][*]Has never started an engine when the temp is a single digit[*]Parks in a garage (if attached see item 1)[*]Has an engine heater (see item 1)[*]Doesn't venture out until after the sun is shining[/list=1]
This is truely a fact, let me present the proof.
I have to scrape the windows first, because I know I can't scrape them in 30 seconds. At 20* there is ice on the windows, at 5* it's more like super ice. I have to scrape harder and longer and the scraper does not bend, so all it get is thin scrape lines.
By the time I am finished I am buffing a bit and know better than to drive with cold windows until I catch my breath, so back into the house to warm up. Five minutes later I'm ready, but the windows are frosted and I need to scrape them again.
A quick scrape of the windows and I'm ready to start and drive. The front window is frosted by the time I reach the end of the driveway, and I can just barely see. Two miles down the road my windows are cleared, and so is my thinking on warming up an engine at 5*.
The 30 second warmup theory applies to temps above 10*, and below that we have a new theory. I'm not sure what it is, but I would start with add one minute for every 5* under 20*, plus the time it takes to get some heat to your window defroster.
Anything beyond that is wasting gas.
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From: Bradford, PA
Okay, here it goes. I used to just start up my truck in the morning and just go. I finally got sick of the inside windshield freezing over because my hair was still wet & my hands freezing to the steering wheel. I installed a remote start. It is set to run 25 minutes. I start it just before I get in the shower & all the snow is melted off the windos by the time I'm ready to go.
For you guys that wanna complain about decreased MPG & increased wear on engines, the bit of extra gas used in the morning is worth it (maybe 40 cents, probably less). As for the increased wear on the engine, I now have 118k miles & it still runs like the day it was new. I will be doing an oil analysis at the next change if anyone would like to see it.
For you guys that wanna complain about decreased MPG & increased wear on engines, the bit of extra gas used in the morning is worth it (maybe 40 cents, probably less). As for the increased wear on the engine, I now have 118k miles & it still runs like the day it was new. I will be doing an oil analysis at the next change if anyone would like to see it.
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From: Wisconsin
Originally posted by medic
Okay, here it goes. I used to just start up my truck in the morning and just go. I finally got sick of the inside windshield freezing over because my hair was still wet & my hands freezing to the steering wheel. I installed a remote start. It is set to run 25 minutes. I start it just before I get in the shower & all the snow is melted off the windos by the time I'm ready to go.
For you guys that wanna complain about decreased MPG & increased wear on engines, the bit of extra gas used in the morning is worth it (maybe 40 cents, probably less). As for the increased wear on the engine, I now have 118k miles & it still runs like the day it was new. I will be doing an oil analysis at the next change if anyone would like to see it.
Okay, here it goes. I used to just start up my truck in the morning and just go. I finally got sick of the inside windshield freezing over because my hair was still wet & my hands freezing to the steering wheel. I installed a remote start. It is set to run 25 minutes. I start it just before I get in the shower & all the snow is melted off the windos by the time I'm ready to go.
For you guys that wanna complain about decreased MPG & increased wear on engines, the bit of extra gas used in the morning is worth it (maybe 40 cents, probably less). As for the increased wear on the engine, I now have 118k miles & it still runs like the day it was new. I will be doing an oil analysis at the next change if anyone would like to see it.
I turn the key until the dashboard lights up, delaying there for a second or two to allow the fuel pump to charge and what ever else needs to activate. Then I start the engine.
While the engine warms I use this time to put on my seatbelt and get situated for the drive. I would say the standard 30 seconds to 1 minute. I don't have much more patients than that.
When I'm ready I put the truck in reverse and back out using only the idle. Then I put it in drive and idle out of the parking lot to the road or at least until someone pulls out behind me who's not going to be interested in this slow pace.
Once on the road is the first time I use the gas pedal. Even then it is a gradual acceleration up to speed and coast to the first stop light/sign. I drive this way until the temp gage starts to move, then slip back into my normal driving habits.
It's easier, when at home, to plan ahead and step outside and start the engine, then go back intot the house and make sure you have everything and everybody. Even then, I don't want to idle more than 5 minutes, and shut it off if I don't think I can be on the road within 10 minutes.
For the most part, I'll only warm the engine on the first start of the day. I also put a lot of effort into using the vehicle that has returned home last and is still warm.
I went to a basket ball game on Tuesday night, and checked the temp. I get 79C on the way to the school, and 82C on the way back home three hours later. Normal operating temp for my engine is 91C. I would estimate the school is 4 miles one way.
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From: Lakeville, Minnesota, USA
1-4 don't apply and I still, go by the start, idle till settled, then go (easy) mantra. It was -20 F the other morning (no, not windchill 
), and my '99, parked outside, started like a champ, had no ice on the windows, and had dropped to 800 rpms in less than a minute. The old Cavalier, well, thats another story...
Just depends on the day as to whether the windows need to be scraped or not...
), and my '99, parked outside, started like a champ, had no ice on the windows, and had dropped to 800 rpms in less than a minute. The old Cavalier, well, thats another story...Just depends on the day as to whether the windows need to be scraped or not...
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From: Wisconsin
Originally posted by gopher
1-4 don't apply and I still, go by the start, idle till settled, then go (easy) mantra. It was -20 F the other morning (no, not windchill ), and my '99, parked outside, started like a champ, had no ice on the windows, and had dropped to 800 rpms in less than a minute. The old Cavalier, well, thats another story...
Just depends on the day as to whether the windows need to be scraped or not...
1-4 don't apply and I still, go by the start, idle till settled, then go (easy) mantra. It was -20 F the other morning (no, not windchill
), and my '99, parked outside, started like a champ, had no ice on the windows, and had dropped to 800 rpms in less than a minute. The old Cavalier, well, thats another story...Just depends on the day as to whether the windows need to be scraped or not...
I think there are three good reasons to consider warming an engine before you start to drive.
The first is safety factor of defrosted windows.
The second is when you are making a short trip and your engine will not make it to operating temp. This is the issue I was intending this thread to address.
The third is the possibility that these higher tolerance engines don't allow as much blow by gass to contaminate the oil, thus reducing, not eliminating, the concern.