Making the move to electric fans
Just to add a little more information to a great thread.
As far as the question to do electric fans need to run all the time. For street use, basically freeway (turnpike) they do NOT need to run. Basically the only time a fan needs to be running (again street wise) is when your under approx. 30 - 35mph or sitting.
Once your crusing over 30 - 35mph you do not need any fan at all. Your are going fast enough at that speed that the air coming through the raditor is all that is needed, unless of course your tailgating and blocking the airflow.
I can tell you this is correct from personal experience and got myself $500.00 proving it to a brother-in-law (know-it-all) who said FACT, the fan must always be running. I tried explaining to him how a clutch fan operates but he wouldn't have that.
So, I ask if he is willing to put his money where is mouth is. I bet him $500.00 I could drive my then built 79 Camaro, 400 small block putting out 410hp at the rear wheels that I could drive from Riverside CA to Las Vegas (approx. 240 miles one way during spring, temp approx. 85 - 90 degrees through the desert) with NO fan.
He accepted the bet. Took off and before we got on the freeway I unbolted my fan, put it in the trunk and we were off. Made 2 stops on the way for sodas. Car never ran any warmer then approx. 180 - 190 degrees. Got to Las Vegas and received my $500.00. bolted the fan back on, for city driving, and lost approx. $200.00. 8 hours later we left at night. I asked him if he would like to bet another $500.00 for the trip home.
Bet denied...
Note: I may have gained a little horsepower due to NO fan at all, which means less friction from the fan freewheeling, but I would never recommend it. If you have an electric fan and it is running when your driving down the freeway more times then not it will NOT be turning the same RPM's as it would just freewheeling. That means less life for the fan motor since it will run hot due to friction. Also less horsepower gain because now you have added more friction then if the fan was just freewheeling.
I would NEVER recommend to anybody to go without a fan. Just some information and proof that you don't need it running once your running around 30 - 35mph.
As far as the question to do electric fans need to run all the time. For street use, basically freeway (turnpike) they do NOT need to run. Basically the only time a fan needs to be running (again street wise) is when your under approx. 30 - 35mph or sitting.
Once your crusing over 30 - 35mph you do not need any fan at all. Your are going fast enough at that speed that the air coming through the raditor is all that is needed, unless of course your tailgating and blocking the airflow.
I can tell you this is correct from personal experience and got myself $500.00 proving it to a brother-in-law (know-it-all) who said FACT, the fan must always be running. I tried explaining to him how a clutch fan operates but he wouldn't have that.
So, I ask if he is willing to put his money where is mouth is. I bet him $500.00 I could drive my then built 79 Camaro, 400 small block putting out 410hp at the rear wheels that I could drive from Riverside CA to Las Vegas (approx. 240 miles one way during spring, temp approx. 85 - 90 degrees through the desert) with NO fan.
He accepted the bet. Took off and before we got on the freeway I unbolted my fan, put it in the trunk and we were off. Made 2 stops on the way for sodas. Car never ran any warmer then approx. 180 - 190 degrees. Got to Las Vegas and received my $500.00. bolted the fan back on, for city driving, and lost approx. $200.00. 8 hours later we left at night. I asked him if he would like to bet another $500.00 for the trip home.
Bet denied...

Note: I may have gained a little horsepower due to NO fan at all, which means less friction from the fan freewheeling, but I would never recommend it. If you have an electric fan and it is running when your driving down the freeway more times then not it will NOT be turning the same RPM's as it would just freewheeling. That means less life for the fan motor since it will run hot due to friction. Also less horsepower gain because now you have added more friction then if the fan was just freewheeling.
I would NEVER recommend to anybody to go without a fan. Just some information and proof that you don't need it running once your running around 30 - 35mph.
Last edited by 01 XLT Sport; Dec 17, 2002 at 09:07 PM.
I have been dragging my feet on this for some time, and I have decided to go with the Mike T. kit. That's when the money and time are in the same place
,,,,98
,,,,98
On the boards here he goes by the name Superchips Distributor, and usually can be found in the Computer Chip forum, which is here.
It's a pretty cool kit, with dual fans and a staggered turn on for less amp draw. Only runs both fans when the a/c is on, or when temps start climbing. Neal is the guy who originally put the kit together at first, from what I remember.,,,,98
It's a pretty cool kit, with dual fans and a staggered turn on for less amp draw. Only runs both fans when the a/c is on, or when temps start climbing. Neal is the guy who originally put the kit together at first, from what I remember.,,,,98
Originally posted by TRAY
jkingman -
I spent about a month searching past threads and reading about electric fans. I then went with the kit that Mike T. has. It's a piece of cake to install and excellent directions. Just need to have a Scan tool or other sensor avaialble to set each the fan's temperature settings to turn them on.
I'd recommend you at least call Mike T. and talk to him first.
jkingman -
I spent about a month searching past threads and reading about electric fans. I then went with the kit that Mike T. has. It's a piece of cake to install and excellent directions. Just need to have a Scan tool or other sensor avaialble to set each the fan's temperature settings to turn them on.
I'd recommend you at least call Mike T. and talk to him first.
01 XLT Sport,
Excellent post. It seems many are under the impression that they need huge amounts of flow to keep a system cool.
I just had to replace a fan clutch (last night) on my '95. It went quick and was so shot that it was completely free wheeling, to the point that when off I could spin it almost as if it were on a bearing with no resistance.
While nailing down what it was, the temp gauge was swinging, but never came out of the "Normal" range at all. Even in stop and go traffic the trucks cooling system handled the heat within normal ranges with really no fan to help.
This tells me several things....
1. The fan clutch in conjunction with the t-stat does a lot more to stabalize temps than I thought
2. The fan clutch reacts much quicker than I had assumed
3. It doesn't take huge amounts of flow to cool these engines.
4. At idle the temp on my truck with drop (to the middle of the gauge), even without a fan.
After seeing various information I have found that electrics don't give huge gains, but might save some in mileage and allow a quicker warm up period. After my personal experience I know I could limp the truck home without one, so buying a high buck setup would be an option, not a requirement.
Excellent post. It seems many are under the impression that they need huge amounts of flow to keep a system cool.
I just had to replace a fan clutch (last night) on my '95. It went quick and was so shot that it was completely free wheeling, to the point that when off I could spin it almost as if it were on a bearing with no resistance.
While nailing down what it was, the temp gauge was swinging, but never came out of the "Normal" range at all. Even in stop and go traffic the trucks cooling system handled the heat within normal ranges with really no fan to help.
This tells me several things....
1. The fan clutch in conjunction with the t-stat does a lot more to stabalize temps than I thought
2. The fan clutch reacts much quicker than I had assumed
3. It doesn't take huge amounts of flow to cool these engines.
4. At idle the temp on my truck with drop (to the middle of the gauge), even without a fan.
After seeing various information I have found that electrics don't give huge gains, but might save some in mileage and allow a quicker warm up period. After my personal experience I know I could limp the truck home without one, so buying a high buck setup would be an option, not a requirement.
signmaster:
Thank you. I agree alot of people misunderstand how the electric or clutch fans work, as when they come on or engage. They are never, or I should say if properly working should never be engaged or on when traveling on the freeways/turnpikes.
If I had the money I would love to have an electric fan set-up on my truck. I agree it would take some stress of the motor (less weight it has to turn) but as you said there is not much horsepower gain by converting from clutch to electric. In my opinion one should not convert from a clutch to electric for horsepower gain alone. To do so would be very disapointing not to mention a HUGE expense for a little gain in horsepower, at least steet wise.
Racing is a different story, sometimes just 2hp could be the difference of winning and losing. When you think about it, for me with the 4.2 I can gain, I believe something like 25hp for about $300 going to a superchip. From what I read here it could cost me from $100 - $300 for maybe 2 - 5hp gain if that with a fan, not a good investment (if only for hp gain).
My personal recommendation to someone that was to ask would be if you don't have the chip, FIPK, or exhaust yet spend the money on that, the electric fan should be one of the last things to spend money on for gaining any real noticeable hp. Is it a good investment? I would say YES, if your going to keep your truck for years, and for taking some stress of the motor. If your only going to have your truck for 3 years or less then the electric fan is a waste of money that you will see hardly any return on.
If you want to gain some hp, again not much but some you can do it for free if you have AC, Take off the AC unit, or by-pass it with the belt and you will gain as much if not more hp then from replacing the clutch fan.
That's just my personal opinion
Thank you. I agree alot of people misunderstand how the electric or clutch fans work, as when they come on or engage. They are never, or I should say if properly working should never be engaged or on when traveling on the freeways/turnpikes.
If I had the money I would love to have an electric fan set-up on my truck. I agree it would take some stress of the motor (less weight it has to turn) but as you said there is not much horsepower gain by converting from clutch to electric. In my opinion one should not convert from a clutch to electric for horsepower gain alone. To do so would be very disapointing not to mention a HUGE expense for a little gain in horsepower, at least steet wise.
Racing is a different story, sometimes just 2hp could be the difference of winning and losing. When you think about it, for me with the 4.2 I can gain, I believe something like 25hp for about $300 going to a superchip. From what I read here it could cost me from $100 - $300 for maybe 2 - 5hp gain if that with a fan, not a good investment (if only for hp gain).
My personal recommendation to someone that was to ask would be if you don't have the chip, FIPK, or exhaust yet spend the money on that, the electric fan should be one of the last things to spend money on for gaining any real noticeable hp. Is it a good investment? I would say YES, if your going to keep your truck for years, and for taking some stress of the motor. If your only going to have your truck for 3 years or less then the electric fan is a waste of money that you will see hardly any return on.
If you want to gain some hp, again not much but some you can do it for free if you have AC, Take off the AC unit, or by-pass it with the belt and you will gain as much if not more hp then from replacing the clutch fan.
That's just my personal opinion
Undo or bypass the a/c unit?? Pit Stains and heat stroke are not my idea of fun. I'd sooner buy a fan than do that. I guess in NH you could get away with it, but Houston Heat and humidity can kill you, lol!
,,,,98
,,,,98
Hey... it's just a suggestion. You are correct here in New Hampshire you could get away with it except in the summer when it gets humid. I am the biggest wuse when it is humid out.
In your case, NO WAY would I ever by-pass the AC. When I lived in California I think every car/truck came standard with AC. Back here, in the last 3 years or so its in more and more trucks/cars but there are still alot on the lots that don't have AC. WOW that is old time...
In your case, NO WAY would I ever by-pass the AC. When I lived in California I think every car/truck came standard with AC. Back here, in the last 3 years or so its in more and more trucks/cars but there are still alot on the lots that don't have AC. WOW that is old time...
I remember when I was a kid and my Mom bought her first new car. Like most Moms do, she went the cheap route. It was the first car I had ever seen with a radio block out plate!?!
4 cylinder engine with no a/c in a 1979 Fairmont, lol! Hey at least it was a Ford? My brother and I were just kids, but we knew enough to talk her out of a Dodge Aspen! That Fairmont was the hottest car on the block, hehe.,,,,98
Now she has a loaded 95 Taurus, way to go Mom
4 cylinder engine with no a/c in a 1979 Fairmont, lol! Hey at least it was a Ford? My brother and I were just kids, but we knew enough to talk her out of a Dodge Aspen! That Fairmont was the hottest car on the block, hehe.,,,,98Now she has a loaded 95 Taurus, way to go Mom
The Electric fans are only temp controlled.
If the temp from the probe does not reach the turn on point, they will not turn on.
During the summer, driving at 45 mph or higher, the fans would never turn on, as the air movement was enough to keep the temp below the turn on point.
I was just checking my FLX-270s last week, and in 33* F temps, I could drive for 45 min. ( mix of ground streets and highway ) , and the fans would never come on, even with driving on the ground streets, and stopping at lights.
The dtm use of the Odometer, showed that I was always at least 2-3* C of the turn on point, again this is with 33*F outside temps.
The turn on point I have set is 200* F, which is the termostat + 8* F, and then the fans usually run between 200 and 205* F, never hitting the 210* F for 100% run speed
Even in JUL temps, driving in traffic, they would cycle on and off at the 60% run speed.
If the temp from the probe does not reach the turn on point, they will not turn on.
During the summer, driving at 45 mph or higher, the fans would never turn on, as the air movement was enough to keep the temp below the turn on point.
I was just checking my FLX-270s last week, and in 33* F temps, I could drive for 45 min. ( mix of ground streets and highway ) , and the fans would never come on, even with driving on the ground streets, and stopping at lights.
The dtm use of the Odometer, showed that I was always at least 2-3* C of the turn on point, again this is with 33*F outside temps.
The turn on point I have set is 200* F, which is the termostat + 8* F, and then the fans usually run between 200 and 205* F, never hitting the 210* F for 100% run speed
Even in JUL temps, driving in traffic, they would cycle on and off at the 60% run speed.
I have the Mike Troyer Kit. I beat the snot out of my truck. I run Mud, sand you name it. The fans only turn on when they are needed. I am working out adapting the system for mud running because the controllersdo not like being power washed after being soaked in mud. I will be relocating the controllers inside the cab. Another problem with mud is if the fan does not turn on after being soaked in mud, the mud will dry in clumps and cause the fan to vibrate. A toggle switch to manually turn them on will cure that. You will also need a master cut off switch.
Electric fans do not like to run under water for long periods of time. The last problem that I had was the temp probes working out of the radiator fins. A combo of bouncing, jolting and again power washing has worked them loose. Regardless, all in all this is one hell of a good kit. For normal street racing or as a daily driver, I recommend them.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Electric fans do not like to run under water for long periods of time. The last problem that I had was the temp probes working out of the radiator fins. A combo of bouncing, jolting and again power washing has worked them loose. Regardless, all in all this is one hell of a good kit. For normal street racing or as a daily driver, I recommend them.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Originally posted by JMC
A toggle switch to manually turn them on will cure that. You will also need a master cut off switch.
A toggle switch to manually turn them on will cure that. You will also need a master cut off switch.
I know the FLX-270 kit has 2 switch inputs on the controller, on for manual run, one for system off.
WooHoo!
I just ordered my flx-270 from one of the big online "racing" warehouses and I get free shipping, no sales tax, plus I had an extra 10% off "code".
It's on back order but at the price I got it for I can wait a week or two.
I think this is going to really help my air conditioner's performance and gas milage too, since we have to run the A/C fulltime, 6 months out of the year here. I'm excited! heh
PLUS - I want to add that I like the idea that the flx-270 is basically a bolt-on kit, ready to go.
I just ordered my flx-270 from one of the big online "racing" warehouses and I get free shipping, no sales tax, plus I had an extra 10% off "code".
It's on back order but at the price I got it for I can wait a week or two.
I think this is going to really help my air conditioner's performance and gas milage too, since we have to run the A/C fulltime, 6 months out of the year here. I'm excited! heh
PLUS - I want to add that I like the idea that the flx-270 is basically a bolt-on kit, ready to go.



