Thanks to everyone for your help and input. I am going to get the work done at my local dealer (they told me around $400.00). I you alls opinion should i go ahead and have the timing chain changed.

 

Doesn't really need it unless it has a lot of miles...BUT...since they are right there and the labor would be minimal to add that to the list, go ahead if the price of the chain is reasonable.

I would not wory one bit about it if you didn't change it though.

 

The guy at the dealership also said that he did not think it was needed. Ok here is a question that is a bit off topic. Would a 5.0 V8 fit in these trucks

 

If it was mine, I'd skip the timing chain. I think puttin' in a 5.0 would be alot of work. It would probably fit but what about changes to ECU, wiring harnesses, accessory drive, etc? I haven't seen it done, or heard of it, but that doesn't mean its impossible by any means. I liked the 5.0 but I also like the modular V-8s.

 

Yea, the 5.0 idea was just a lunch time idea, maybe a lack of food made me go there.

I have a 1986 Grand Marquee, that I am trying to sell (that is what I drove before I got the truck). I am having a hard time selling it, keep lowering the price. It is getting to the point that I think of just keeping it for the motor, letting it sit somewhere and way, way (I hope way) down the road when the V6 in my truck gives up , rebuild that V8 and put it in there.

 

Hmmmm!

My truck has been leeking externaly since i got it last spring. I spnt the mony on a new gasket and seal this summer, but when I started to tear into it. I noticed the gasket had already been changed (sloppy silocone work, and cause of the leak.) anyway, i left it alone. I keep an eye on the oil and water. I usually just have to add water every now and then, but there's no water in the oil. I'll probably tear into it this winter or in the comming sprig, but with 89,000 miles on it, I don't think I have to worry about it too much.

as for the 5.0 ,

I've seen a viper V-10 stuffed into a Wrangler, so anything is possible.
If I were to swap anything in place of the 4.2 though, It would have to really be worth it, and be unique. I'd go with either a 5.4 Lightning, or a V-10.

 

TALLTomG ..."It will require that you do the same teardown as you already have started looking at..i.e the waterpump replacement. But you now would need to go past that and remove the timing cover itself which entails the removal of studs and Cam Position Sensors and oil pumps and pan bolts and specific things. "


I currently have my F150 torn appart in my driveway and I cannot figure out how to get the front timing cover off. I have taken out every bolt and stud that is on the front of the motor and two oil pan bolts on the passenger side.

Tom, what else could I possibly be missing on taking this off. I do not have a Ford service manual (I have a wonderfully detailed Chiltons manual). Do I have to do something with the oil filter housing or etc? You mentioned in your note "specific things" what might those be?

Thanks a million
joe

 

Hi Joe,

I am going to bet at this point that you have missed the bolt that is just under the oil pump housing above the lip of the pan and below the oil pump housing. Its an 8MM bolt, and its buried real good. Particularly if the engine is in the truck. Its impossible to assume they put one there. If you tell me you have removed that, then I will need you to count the total number of bolts/studs removed. I will go out to a long block I have in the garage and verify your count. Past that I would only think that its simply needing to be tapped off the seal but lets make sure you got all the bolts/studs out first.

We'll go a step at a tiem here until you get it off.

Tom

 

Tall tom,


Thanks for letting me know about the missing bolt (A six mm allen too). It was driving me nuts!

I got it back together! Yeah! However, I still have a few small leaks. In the midst of tracking those guys down.

Joe

 

Tom,

After about a month now, I have noticed that I still have a small leak, internal and external. I noticed that on the inside of my oil cap, I would get a large buildup of white foam. At first, I thought no big deal just cold weather condensation. But, today I looked at my oil and found small little bubbles. I do not believe I have any bearing damage due to the small amount of coolant in the oil. I went ahead and changed my oil again to be on the safe side.

I am frustrated. I followed the shop manual procedure on www.alldatadiy.com to the T and I still have a leak! Before I started the job, I called the gasket company to ensure the gaskets were correct, and they instructed me NOT to use a gasket sealer. This is where I feel my problem may be. I did not use a sealer on the front gasket cover because the shop manual said not to use it and the gasket mfr also said not to use it.

When you do a front cover install job do you use a sealer? If yes, which one? If you do not recommend a sealer, then I am out of ideas except take the truck into the dealer. What are your thoughts?

Thanks
Joe

 

Joe,

Refresh my memory. Are you changing the front timing cover gasket or just the water pump?

If its the timing cover gasket, yes you use a silicone sealer. If its just the water pump. I use a varnish sealer. Used on aircraft appilcations. Its like a very heavy varnish liquid. It does a good job sealing.

 

Tom,

I am performing a timing cover gasket change. Just for clarification purposes... When performing a timing cover gasket change, I should use a replacement gasket and a silicone sealer on both sides of the gasket. On the water pump, I should also use a new gasket and a varnish sealer.

Thanks
joe

 

Yes.

And I have never not seen a sealer being called out to use.

 

Tom,

I respect your opinion and agree that a gasket sealer is the correct approach to take.

However, I called the gasket manufacture (felpro) again today and asked about using a sealer. Again, they told me no do not use a sealer with the front timing cover gasket. According to thier documentation and tests, a silcone based sealer comprimises the gasket by softening the gasket over time causing it to fail. They told me the gasket will hold if the mating surfaces are flat. The technical support person said that if it is not holding properly it can be for the following reasons:
1. The gasket material has not been 100% completely removed from the mating surfaces
2. The mating surfaces are not 100% flat, i.e. the front cover has pits or is warped
3. The gasket was not installed correctly... (I do not see how this is possible)


In conclusion, I decided to take my truck into the local Ford dealership and have them (re)do the front timing cover gasket. It is now cold outside and my garage is not big enough to work on my truck inside. My thought is, if it screws up for the next year... they will fix it! I followed the procedures correctly and produced incorrect results. [Additionaly, after I took it apart to replace the leaking timing cover, I saw that the previous owner also attempted to replace the gasket]

 

I doubt the mating surfaces are going to be very true but regadless I'd use a sealer.

But anyway, now Ford can hang thier hats on the repair.

Good luck.