gear choice
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Joined: May 2001
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From: peru,Ind. usa
gear choice
I am looking to get gears changed. I have 3.08's right now and have almost nothing off the line. I don't think I'll be racing (my truck is a super cab and heavy) but I might want to tow in the future and I like it to run as good as I can. It has a 5sp.
I was thinking 3.55 gears but reading the post and talking to others I think 3.73's would let me lay a little rubber and tow what I want. Is 3.73's to much? Should I just go with 3.55's?
I was thinking 3.55 gears but reading the post and talking to others I think 3.73's would let me lay a little rubber and tow what I want. Is 3.73's to much? Should I just go with 3.55's?
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From: Turnersville, NJ
3.73s would probably be perfect for you with the 5speed. If you really wanna lay rubber get some 3.90s but nthing higher as it will be too much(according to some guy on this site named talley...umm.. something, I think he has a 5 speed...hehe!)
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Joined: May 2001
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From: peru,Ind. usa
thanks for the info. I think I will run with the 3.73's . I read you guys post a lot and you really seem to know a lot about these trucks. I just change plubs the other day. The one's Tally said to use copper motorcraft. Thanks runs great. Now to get gears.
I run Gibson exhaust and homemade filtercharger with K&N filter
hoping to make more mods. Keep the good advice coming and thanks again. Tally and xlt sport.
I run Gibson exhaust and homemade filtercharger with K&N filter
hoping to make more mods. Keep the good advice coming and thanks again. Tally and xlt sport.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Tipp City, Ohio
Ok, I'm guessing ya'll with these short trucks aren't haveing trouble keeping the rearend on the ground. I got rid of the stock 255's tires and went to 265's just to keep from "laying rubber". They still spin even when I don't want them to, but they at least took care of the wheel hop. I know traction bars would be the best thing, but they're a bit pricey, and I needed tires anyway. I've got a 3.55 LS rear end, and on anything other than hot asfault, or rough concreate, the rear would always break loose. I can't imagine running a 3.73 and definatly not 3.90's with the stock tires or without a heavy load. I like to move forward when I step on the gas, not just sit there in the middle of traffic spinning my tires.
I'd say go with the 3.55's unless you're going to do a lot of towing, then get the 3.73's. I've towed nearly 7000 lbs with mine, and it did just fine, but if I did It often, the 3.73's would be a bit better, but then I'd definatly get the traction bars.(and fill the bed with sand)
I'd say go with the 3.55's unless you're going to do a lot of towing, then get the 3.73's. I've towed nearly 7000 lbs with mine, and it did just fine, but if I did It often, the 3.73's would be a bit better, but then I'd definatly get the traction bars.(and fill the bed with sand)
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Originally posted by muddytrux
Ok, I'm guessing ya'll with these short trucks aren't haveing trouble keeping the rearend on the ground. I got rid of the stock 255's tires and went to 265's just to keep from "laying rubber". They still spin even when I don't want them to, but they at least took care of the wheel hop. I know traction bars would be the best thing, but they're a bit pricey, and I needed tires anyway. I've got a 3.55 LS rear end, and on anything other than hot asfault, or rough concreate, the rear would always break loose. I can't imagine running a 3.73 and definatly not 3.90's with the stock tires or without a heavy load. I like to move forward when I step on the gas, not just sit there in the middle of traffic spinning my tires.
I'd say go with the 3.55's unless you're going to do a lot of towing, then get the 3.73's. I've towed nearly 7000 lbs with mine, and it did just fine, but if I did It often, the 3.73's would be a bit better, but then I'd definatly get the traction bars.(and fill the bed with sand)
Ok, I'm guessing ya'll with these short trucks aren't haveing trouble keeping the rearend on the ground. I got rid of the stock 255's tires and went to 265's just to keep from "laying rubber". They still spin even when I don't want them to, but they at least took care of the wheel hop. I know traction bars would be the best thing, but they're a bit pricey, and I needed tires anyway. I've got a 3.55 LS rear end, and on anything other than hot asfault, or rough concreate, the rear would always break loose. I can't imagine running a 3.73 and definatly not 3.90's with the stock tires or without a heavy load. I like to move forward when I step on the gas, not just sit there in the middle of traffic spinning my tires.
I'd say go with the 3.55's unless you're going to do a lot of towing, then get the 3.73's. I've towed nearly 7000 lbs with mine, and it did just fine, but if I did It often, the 3.73's would be a bit better, but then I'd definatly get the traction bars.(and fill the bed with sand)
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From: Tipp City, Ohio
I think you might have a tire problem, i cant break mine loose if my life depended on it, Ive got a 4.2 v6 auto with a MAC air intake, delta chip, cat exaust with flow 50's and a 3.55 ls rear end. After talking to talley im going to purchase 3.90's, hopefully that will give me the rear wheel spin on demand that im looking for and still allow me to cruise the interstate.
is this where that auto vs. manually debate starts up again?
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From: Turnersville, NJ
Originally posted by muddytrux
hey Tally,
is this where that auto vs. manually debate starts up again?
hey Tally,
is this where that auto vs. manually debate starts up again?
Unless you have a nicely modded tranny/driveline, the manual always has the upper hand(in my opinion anyway, and I have an auto!)....but even with a nicely modded tranny/driveline, you still lose more HP with an auto than with a manual.
End of Debate!!!
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Oh there is no debate, a manual will always be better then a auto when hp is concerened, i would have gone with a manual, but unfortunatly the closest thing taht i wanted was a auto, so thats why i got the auto, eventually, after my warenty goes away, and when its time for a engine swap, im droping a 5.4 with a manual in it.
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From: Central AZ
Originally posted by XLT-Sport
Manuals deliver more HP and Torque to the Tires. . . you still lose more HP with an auto than with a manual.
End of Debate!!!
Manuals deliver more HP and Torque to the Tires. . . you still lose more HP with an auto than with a manual.
End of Debate!!!
Later,
J
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*the above mentioned 60% in this posting is based on the assumption that we are talking about typical drivetrain parasitic losses that happen while the torque converter is locked up during normal cruising situations and at a set RPM with the same gear ratio. If the converter is unlocked, then this % dwindles sharply to less than 5%.