Flowmaster and roller rockers are on
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From: Central AZ
Flowmaster and roller rockers are on
Finally got the 40 series Flowmaster muffler in, as well as the Motorsport 1.72 roller rockers. My official 'seat-o-the-pants' meter registered an approx. 20-25 hp gain. BUT, the seat of my pants always lies to me and my estimates are always a bit high, so I'm thinking that it may realistically be more like a 15 hp/20lb/ft. gain. I felt a strong improvement in the low speed torque as well as the mid and high RPM power. I haven't dyno tested it yet, or been to the track- but I'll post a scanned image of my time slips and/or dyno pulls as they become available.
Talley- I am interested to see if your porting mod (throttle body) helped the midrange as much as the rocker ratio increase. I have a feeling that these mods should be done together to get the maximum effect.
Now that I'm done with the appearance mods. . .I'll be concentrating heavily on more power/transmission/and my personal favorite. . .suspension mods.
Talley- I am interested to see if your porting mod (throttle body) helped the midrange as much as the rocker ratio increase. I have a feeling that these mods should be done together to get the maximum effect.
Now that I'm done with the appearance mods. . .I'll be concentrating heavily on more power/transmission/and my personal favorite. . .suspension mods.
Last edited by WrongdayJ; Aug 6, 2002 at 04:15 PM.
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I wasn't aware of 1.72 rockers... I thought they only made 1.73. The realistic gains on the V6's are 5-6rwhp with just the rockers, add the flows and you will get around 7 or 8rwhp which on your automatic probably equates to 12 or so HP. I can't remember the torque gains. The rockers are a cheap and very effective way to increase lift to the valves.... sorta a poor-man's cam. Very easy to install and are at a relatively good price. Great mod!
As for the Throttle body mod.... DO IT! End of story. It helps top end mainly, that's the only notice I feel.
As for the Throttle body mod.... DO IT! End of story. It helps top end mainly, that's the only notice I feel.
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J,
Where did u get your rockers, and how much were they? I finally have cash to get my truck up to speed, and i have wanted to get the rockers for a while. And furthermore, how easy is the install, and how do u install them? Thanks for the help J, and Talleywacker if he wants to
SC
Where did u get your rockers, and how much were they? I finally have cash to get my truck up to speed, and i have wanted to get the rockers for a while. And furthermore, how easy is the install, and how do u install them? Thanks for the help J, and Talleywacker if he wants to
SC
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Installation is easy. Remove valve covers... unbolt stock rockers... bolt on the FMS rockers (unless you have adjustable rockers, you will just bolt them on) and bling bling done .
For twice the price however you can get yourself a custom cam and cam installation kit. You will net ~ 2-3 times the power gain, for just around double the price.
.For twice the price however you can get yourself a custom cam and cam installation kit. You will net ~ 2-3 times the power gain, for just around double the price.
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http://rpm-mustangs.com/cgi-bin/db.cgi?v6
They have both roller rockers and custom ground cams for our engines. The cam is 200, installation kit is 30, and you will need new springs and pushrods wich will total you up to $500 for all. Installation on the cam can range from 4-8hours, however on a newbie can take all weekend to do. FYI, I do not have aftermarket roller rockers and will not have them anytime soon at all. I believe in cam/pushrod/spring combo. It is more expensive tho.
For mildly modded 4.2's I recommend the 205/216 cam.
Here is a pic of what the cam looks like. stock is on right, new cam is on the left.
They have both roller rockers and custom ground cams for our engines. The cam is 200, installation kit is 30, and you will need new springs and pushrods wich will total you up to $500 for all. Installation on the cam can range from 4-8hours, however on a newbie can take all weekend to do. FYI, I do not have aftermarket roller rockers and will not have them anytime soon at all. I believe in cam/pushrod/spring combo. It is more expensive tho.
For mildly modded 4.2's I recommend the 205/216 cam.
Here is a pic of what the cam looks like. stock is on right, new cam is on the left.
Last edited by Talleywacker; Aug 7, 2002 at 05:43 PM.
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The Roller rocker arms I had from my mustang racing days are the blue anodized SVO 1.72:1 ratio roller type. The new ones you buy from Ford (FRRP I believe) are actually a 1.73:1. It was about 20 minutes work. They will suffice until I get a roller cam/hardened pushrods/valve springs. It's all going to be done at the same time I have the heads done and install the thinner crush head gaskets and the . . .well. . .you guys will see as I go. No sense in rambling. It is worth the price of the rockers to get the 10 rwhp. Every last one adds up.
As for the FlowMaster. . .I highly recommend them. I always have and always will. The sound is great and I did notice a slight change in the A/F ratio gauge readings. I am now faintly lighting up another light into the rich range at WOT, whereas with the glasspack muffler the reading at WOT was lower. Perhaps better scavaging, I don't know. Sure feels better though.
Later,
As for the FlowMaster. . .I highly recommend them. I always have and always will. The sound is great and I did notice a slight change in the A/F ratio gauge readings. I am now faintly lighting up another light into the rich range at WOT, whereas with the glasspack muffler the reading at WOT was lower. Perhaps better scavaging, I don't know. Sure feels better though.
Later,
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wrongdayJ:
Did you install a 5 wire wide band o2 sensor w/ the a/f gauge?
btw, I wouldn't touch the gaskets at all... AND you would have to mill the heads .050 to increase compression to an even 10.0 : 1. I checked into that
. remember, .060 is MAX you could go....
Did you install a 5 wire wide band o2 sensor w/ the a/f gauge?
btw, I wouldn't touch the gaskets at all... AND you would have to mill the heads .050 to increase compression to an even 10.0 : 1. I checked into that
. remember, .060 is MAX you could go....
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Hehehe,
No, I used a three-wire circa 1991 5.0L (have a BUNCH of spare parts lying about).
I use the gauge for reference only, not for tuning. I figure it's more accurate than any of the factory gauges the truck came with now, no sense in going crazy with it. I do regularly use this kind of set-up to dial in carbureted cars, though. It's a good tool to have, and it'll get you WAY closer than the old, "tune-it-by-ear" technique employed by some of the old school mechanic types. As long as you can fit it in the toolbox with all the hammers, that is.
I still chuckle about that.
---J
No, I used a three-wire circa 1991 5.0L (have a BUNCH of spare parts lying about).
I use the gauge for reference only, not for tuning. I figure it's more accurate than any of the factory gauges the truck came with now, no sense in going crazy with it. I do regularly use this kind of set-up to dial in carbureted cars, though. It's a good tool to have, and it'll get you WAY closer than the old, "tune-it-by-ear" technique employed by some of the old school mechanic types. As long as you can fit it in the toolbox with all the hammers, that is.
I still chuckle about that.
---J