uncommon mods
uncommon mods
hey guys,
i am trying to compile a list of performance mods for the 4.2L. but i am not talking your basic chip, intake, and exhaust which everyone loves to get (me too. check out my sig) as well as suggest. i am talking about anthing that is slightly uncommon. any info on it like price, warranty voiding problems, or home made devices would be great too. the bottom line is i am going to have chip, exhaust, and Intake done soon and am looking for more ways to juice up the performance...all while trying not to void my warranty. thanks for any suggestions in advance.
A
i am trying to compile a list of performance mods for the 4.2L. but i am not talking your basic chip, intake, and exhaust which everyone loves to get (me too. check out my sig) as well as suggest. i am talking about anthing that is slightly uncommon. any info on it like price, warranty voiding problems, or home made devices would be great too. the bottom line is i am going to have chip, exhaust, and Intake done soon and am looking for more ways to juice up the performance...all while trying not to void my warranty. thanks for any suggestions in advance.
A
upgrade to a 3" exhaust pipe
just before the muffler, insert a butterfly valve whose surface area blocks off enough so that the 3" pipe acts like the stock diameter pipe. This should keep your low end torque up.
NOW the tricky part, attach an electronic actuator that will rotate the butterfly valve as engine rpm increases. About 2500 to 3500 rpm the valve should probably be all the way open so that you can take advantage of your hi-flow exhaust system.
TAda, you now have variable exhaust timing.
ALSO, if you really want to get advanced, when you're off the throttle or when cruise control is on, have the butterfly valve stay open (this shifts the torque curve back up so you produce less torque @ idle and cruising RPM's, which will mean less fuel consumption)
If you think i'm kidding, just look @ dyno results before and after exhaust upgrades. HP @ high rpm is up but initial torque is down.
just before the muffler, insert a butterfly valve whose surface area blocks off enough so that the 3" pipe acts like the stock diameter pipe. This should keep your low end torque up.
NOW the tricky part, attach an electronic actuator that will rotate the butterfly valve as engine rpm increases. About 2500 to 3500 rpm the valve should probably be all the way open so that you can take advantage of your hi-flow exhaust system.
TAda, you now have variable exhaust timing.
ALSO, if you really want to get advanced, when you're off the throttle or when cruise control is on, have the butterfly valve stay open (this shifts the torque curve back up so you produce less torque @ idle and cruising RPM's, which will mean less fuel consumption)
If you think i'm kidding, just look @ dyno results before and after exhaust upgrades. HP @ high rpm is up but initial torque is down.
Since there isnt any adjustment nuts on the throttle cable and the stock throttle cable is very loose i crimped the wire together with a piece of metal then reinserted the wire stop into the throttle bracket again so theres no play in the throttle cable so as soon as i push the gas it goes with no lag. It may sound ghetto but it worked real nice.
Throttle Cable Mod on Ranger
Here's a less permanent way of doing the throttle cable mod.
Keep in mind that this is only necessary if your throttle valve doesn't open fully when you floor it. Putting too many zip ties on will put undue stress on the system and possibly cause breakage OR it can end up holding the butterfly valve open when you're completely off the gas.
Here's a less permanent way of doing the throttle cable mod.
Keep in mind that this is only necessary if your throttle valve doesn't open fully when you floor it. Putting too many zip ties on will put undue stress on the system and possibly cause breakage OR it can end up holding the butterfly valve open when you're completely off the gas.
HI!... I had a lot of play in my F-150's throttle cable as well. I designed and built my own throttle cable adjuster. It is now sold as the "HPP" throttle cable adjuster. :
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...4-793-6947.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...4-793-6947.jpg
how much does the butterfly cost ?, including everything you need to do it and how hard is it to install?
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The buttefly valve could be taken from any junkyard throttle body. You'd have to find some way to mount it in an exhaust pipe.
If you don't have a dyno to measure its effectiveness, I wouldn't suggest speeding the time and money.
If you don't have a dyno to measure its effectiveness, I wouldn't suggest speeding the time and money.
Ported heads will give you only 20-25BHP. With a cost of ~$600 + getting engine rebuilt with new valve seals and labor will be in $1k+ range... so if you do this yourself your looking at about $25 Per BHP.
I'm only expecting ~25BHP with my heads w/ larger exhaust valves.
I'm only expecting ~25BHP with my heads w/ larger exhaust valves.



Or a wing on top of the bed? Hmm.. "Powered by Ford" sticker? "Gonzales" in back window? Gold plated rims.. hehehe.