Hey

So I got a 2012 eco.

I was wondering for all those techies out there, the engine data can calculate how much oil life is remaining.

I was wondering, how does the engine calculate the oil life remaining? and how trustworthy is that?

And maybe take it one step further, and I bet there will likely be a lot of debate over this, but what is better, full synthetic or regular oil.
(FYI I have about 54000 km and it is saying I have 62% oil life remaining, and I bought the truck used with 53000 km on it)

Thanks for your help

 

I dont really go off the computer for oil changes.. When i get a oil change i reset it to 100 percent then around 50 percent i get it changed which is usually right around 5000 miles. I use the syn blend motorcraft oil. I know i may change it to early but its cheap for a oil change so no reason to push it.

 

I'm pretty sure it uses the RPMs, speed and mileage to see how the vehicle has been driven.

 

Thanks guys.

Thanks for your help.

I know studies have shown that oil can last 10,000 - 12,000 k, unless you are towing a lot or under heavy work load. which I am not that often. I agree oil change is cheap maintenance. I usually do oil changes around 8000 k. for that reason.

being that I am not sure when the last oil change was done I plan on doing one soon and starting from fresh.

Getting back to synthetic, can you go to synthetic then back to reg oil? It just seems asking a few different engine guys and there are a few different opinions.

thanks

 

Yes, you can switch back and forth from "synthetic" (which is Group III dino oil)and regular oil (which is Group II dino oil) with no issues. There has been some information about the direct injected ecoboost engine when going too long without an oil change gasoline builds up in the oil and explodes in the oil pan. So, I would change it on schedule or before. Do a search for the explosion risk.

 

The Motorcraft synthetic blend is as good as just about any oil out there. You should be changing your oil in an Ecoboost more often than what would be recommended for a high buck full synthetic extended drain oil anyway. Note that the EB requires 5W30, not 5W20 like most other Fords.

 

The OLM pretty uses an algorithm that measures the piston travel via rpm and uses the throttle position as a modifier. The more throttle position the quicker the count. I wouldn't push an EB on oil changes. Some are doing just fine, like you would expect a normal engine to do. Others are hammering the oil like no other. Some at 3500 miles have spent oil in the pan. Fuel in the oil is an issue with some but not with others. If you get an analysis, remember that the percentage figure shown for fuel is a percentage of weight, not volume. And know the fuel is a calculation, not an actual machine measurement. But it's close enough to be considered accurate. Any oil that is Ford approved for the EB engine will have some synthetic base oil in the mix. The blends historically will yield the lowest wear metals. Pick a brand you like and at 15,000 miles or so I'd have the oil tested. Costs about $25.00 these days and will let you know if yours is easy on the oil or maybe it's hammering it. Most any CAT dealer, Blackstone Labs, can do a report for you.

 

EB or not. Oil is the lifeblood of the engine. If I spent $40k+ on a truck, you'd better damn well believe I'd be changing the oil every 3k. Oil is cheaper compared to engine troubles related to infrequent oil changes. I don't care what the enviro-hippies say.

I change all of my vehicles oil at 3k or less. I can look down into one of my vehicles oil fill and see nothing but clear, clean metal like it came from the factory at 100k and no sounds of valve-train issues; because I change my oil 3k or less, and I use whatever oil there is that is the cheapest at the requested grade. I just make sure to use a quality filter, like a K&N that has a great anti-drain back silicone valve.

Just my $0.02.