Notice the reference to 850 RPM? That means that your alternator will not crank out at 100% until you reach 850 RPM. On my truck, the idle speed is 650 PRM. But as long as the engine is running, I'm in no real danger of my battery dying. Every once in a while, if I've got headlights on, e-fans running, off road lights on, and I'm heating up something in the microwave....I may see a slight drop in battery voltage.

 

OK. Well I have alot of stereo stuff that turns on when I start the truck, but only if the radio is on. Other than that, I don't have any other eletrical needs, so it sounds like I shouldn't be in danger of killing the battery. I am possibly looking into either e-fans, or UDP this summer....but idk yet....thing is, if I wait until then to do them, I will have to pay Justin to re-tune my tunes.....

And what's up with the microwave??

 

i dunno exactly what brand dynos are at my school but i doubt they are crappy. I go to the university of northwestern ohio and many big companies use our dyno for testin... jegs even holds the jegs engine masters challenge on these dynos. one of the proctered classes one of my buddies is in acyually did a test of bolt on power adders and tbs's were one of the things with best results... i dunno how you explain that

 

Maybe not. I haven't had my tunes re-written. I don't notice any difference other than the better pick-up from a stand-still. The biggest difference in "instant power" you'll feel is getting new gears. When I went from OEM 3.55 to 4.10, it was very noticeable.

I like to eat. I also have a Vector Travel Oven & Sharper Image Hot + Cold Mini Fridge.




What? Nobody else carries food with them?

 

what do you recomend for gears as far as brand and what not? how much am i looking at spending for a set? my truck is also a standard and i was wondering if a programer would really do as much for my truck because i kno they have alot to do with shift points...

 

3.73's or 4.10's programmer helps with that too.

 

what did the gears do for your top end or your gas mileage cuz i travel from ohio to vermont a little and i dont wanna comprimise highway drivability

 

i have 3.55's and my RPMs are like at 1900-2000 at 70mph or so.

i think with 3.73's u'll be at 2200 at 70mph.. im probably wrong.

if gas mileage is a problem then dont go bigger than 3.73

 

that's what I was about to ask. You read my mind!

Anyways, so 3.55's are a good gear to stick with if you want to maximize MPG and power to the ground? or would 3.73 be better, as in not losing alot of MPG....

 

I dont know about your dyno experience but the only explanation for the better feel would be the fact you got rid of the slack in your gas pedal.

 

its not that i just noticed the more power, i proved it on the dyno. i dont understand how you guys can sit there and tell me still tbs's dont work because its a proven fact, not only by me but a class in my school did a sponsored test of bolt on power adders and tbs's were one of the things that got the best result!

 

A TBS works by giving the air and fuel more time to mix but, a 4.2 F-150 it has Multi-port injection meaning the only thing going through the throttle body spacer is air and all the spacer does is slow the air down, but hey its your truck do what you want but just dont come on hear and tell us you gained 10 hp from a TBS .

 

i dunno what to tell ya dude, i read it on the screen.

 

 

Top end? Gears don't make more horsepower. They will help deliver your horses to the wheels. You will get better acceleration from a standing still stop.

When I went to 35" tires, I notice a significant drop in mileage and that it took more to get up and moving from a stand still. The gears corrected that. The formula that I used was:

Based upon this formula, I went from 3.55 to 4.10.