Info on replacing harmonic balancer 4.2L
Originally Posted by glc
I haven't gotten a lot of what I consider to be satisfactory answers to my questions here either, but I don't fly off the handle about it. If I were to post like you did, I might as well forget EVER getting decent info here - people remember, and they are not inclined to try to help people who act like that. Please and thank you go a LONG way in forums, flame wars will only get you banned or ostracized. I haven't been here long at all, so I don't know who is who - but I get the impression that BOF just might be a factory trained Ford mechanic - if not, I can tell he knows his stuff pretty well. Not the person you want to get into a pissing contest with if you want answers.
I don't like getting into verbal conflicts with anyone but some come here with a chip on there shoulder thinking we (members) owe them something.
What a joke...I came here expecting nothing ore than someone might know something I couldn't find anywhere else....No chip on my shoulder, at least not until some mental midget decided to ignore the question all together, and volunteer an answer that was just a waste of my time. As far as experience, I WAS a heavy line mechanic, ASE certified...that means I dealt with engine overhauls, transmissions, and transfer cases...I retired from the automotive service 10 years ago because I was tired of being dirty everyday, and to pursue my own business.
As far as I'm concerned, you can have this site, it's apparent to me now it's nothing more than a circle jerk for a bunch of wannabe's. I read thru many posts, and there is no real technical information given....just a lot of opinions...
Enjoy yourselves
As far as I'm concerned, you can have this site, it's apparent to me now it's nothing more than a circle jerk for a bunch of wannabe's. I read thru many posts, and there is no real technical information given....just a lot of opinions...
Enjoy yourselves
Originally Posted by jazzguy
As far as I'm concerned, you can have this site, it's apparent to me now it's nothing more than a circle jerk for a bunch of wannabe's.
I have a '97 F150 with 205,000 miles on the truck...a 4.2L engine,which I had replaced @ 40,000 miles ago. Yesterday, while driving, the pully on the crank/harmonic balancer "fell" off....was told by a mechanic after he looked at it that the shop that replaced the engine used #5 bolts(soft metal) rather then #8 bolts(Hardened), and ergo, the bolts sheared off in the balancer. I was lucky that nothing was damaged, aside from the belt and the balancer. As I was not satisfied with the shop, I won't go back to them....Beware of American Engine Rebuilders/Installers....scam artists deluxe.Anyway... I cannot find an aftermarket balancer in town,( called every auto parts store,shop in the book) aside from the dealer, and they only sell it as a unit, pully and balancer for nearly $400.00. I do not want to be "robbed" like that, so I'm going to attempt to remove the balancer, easy-out the bolt remains, and if necessary, tap it. What I need to know from anyone with the knowledge is this....what are the sizes of the factory bolts that hold the pully to the balancer,so I can go to an auto parts place and buy them, sans having to tap to a larger size, and what is the size of the bolt that holds the balancer to the crank, so I can buy the proper size socket to remove it, and is that bolt a left or right-handed thread?
Another note here.......
I'm getting damn pissed with Ford for not making more of the parts for this truck available away from the dealer. Recently I've had to replace a few things...window transmission, steering yoke, etc, and have hit a wall with each one, being forced to buy from the dealer at really UNreasonable costs.(window transmission with labor cost me over $500.00...dealer said cost was because the transmission is rivited to the door, not bolted...Another one of Ford's "better" ideas...)
2 Ford dealerships here couldn't even tell me the bolt sizes, let alone have them to sell...what's with that???
Another note here.......
I'm getting damn pissed with Ford for not making more of the parts for this truck available away from the dealer. Recently I've had to replace a few things...window transmission, steering yoke, etc, and have hit a wall with each one, being forced to buy from the dealer at really UNreasonable costs.(window transmission with labor cost me over $500.00...dealer said cost was because the transmission is rivited to the door, not bolted...Another one of Ford's "better" ideas...)
2 Ford dealerships here couldn't even tell me the bolt sizes, let alone have them to sell...what's with that???
As I listened to your account it sounded almost like you were in my truck.
With none of the bolts remaining I doubt your opinion poll could determine the bolt's grade. I found the exact part on ebay for $77.00 no shipping costs. the bolts were 8mm. By the time you try to remove you could replace the thing less the sweat. Most industrial fastener supply houses carry 10.1 equal to grade 8 bolts. The crank bolt torques at any where between 103 and 135 shoot for the middle number between the two. the four pulley bolts are between 19-24. There is a recess at the center where you install the tool, washers might be good to place between the bearing and the part. Used parts are OK if sound and available. A YouTube video will show you how to remove the bolt using the starter. the engine rotates standing in front clockwise, set the handle to remove the bolt to your left. bump the starter the bolt will easily come off. This post should supply sufficient enough information to get you back on the road. Ford had too much trouble with the 4.2 engine so they did not continue to manufacture them. Which is why there aren't very many of them in junk yards. GM has had it's share of problem engines too. I learned that you should never buy a technology that is experimental, parts and availability only puts you at the mercy of the dealers. The junk yard is full of treasures, which is why the 350 and 5.6 are loaded. you can almost find cormn Victoria parts at the home depot(hyperbole) Be well
Last edited by Andrew Jackson; Jul 24, 2013 at 02:48 PM. Reason: additional information typos.
First off, this thread is over 6 years old.
Second, the only 4.2's that had major issues were the 97's and early 98's. When those were taken care of, the 4.2 became one of the most reliable engines built and were offered in trucks through 2008. The reason it was discontinued was because of gas mileage and sluggish performance in the larger trucks, they were able to get the 4.6 V-8 to exceed the 4.2 in EPA mileage ratings. As Ford did with the 4.9 inline when it was discontinued, they still sold 4.2's for industrial use.
Considering the 4.2 was based on the 3.8, the Essex V-6 was used for almost 30 years in automotive service. The reason you don't find many in junkyards is most of the 4.2 trucks are still running and are in service! I hardly call an OHV pushrod engine "experimental"........
Second, the only 4.2's that had major issues were the 97's and early 98's. When those were taken care of, the 4.2 became one of the most reliable engines built and were offered in trucks through 2008. The reason it was discontinued was because of gas mileage and sluggish performance in the larger trucks, they were able to get the 4.6 V-8 to exceed the 4.2 in EPA mileage ratings. As Ford did with the 4.9 inline when it was discontinued, they still sold 4.2's for industrial use.
Considering the 4.2 was based on the 3.8, the Essex V-6 was used for almost 30 years in automotive service. The reason you don't find many in junkyards is most of the 4.2 trucks are still running and are in service! I hardly call an OHV pushrod engine "experimental"........
First off, this thread is over 6 years old.
Second, the only 4.2's that had major issues were the 97's and early 98's. When those were taken care of, the 4.2 became one of the most reliable engines built and were offered in trucks through 2008. The reason it was discontinued was because of gas mileage and sluggish performance in the larger trucks, they were able to get the 4.6 V-8 to exceed the 4.2 in EPA mileage ratings. As Ford did with the 4.9 inline when it was discontinued, they still sold 4.2's for industrial use.
Considering the 4.2 was based on the 3.8, the Essex V-6 was used for almost 30 years in automotive service. The reason you don't find many in junkyards is most of the 4.2 trucks are still running and are in service! I hardly call an OHV pushrod engine "experimental"........
Second, the only 4.2's that had major issues were the 97's and early 98's. When those were taken care of, the 4.2 became one of the most reliable engines built and were offered in trucks through 2008. The reason it was discontinued was because of gas mileage and sluggish performance in the larger trucks, they were able to get the 4.6 V-8 to exceed the 4.2 in EPA mileage ratings. As Ford did with the 4.9 inline when it was discontinued, they still sold 4.2's for industrial use.
Considering the 4.2 was based on the 3.8, the Essex V-6 was used for almost 30 years in automotive service. The reason you don't find many in junkyards is most of the 4.2 trucks are still running and are in service! I hardly call an OHV pushrod engine "experimental"........
I see more OBS ('97-04) v6 F150s hanging around than the v8s.
Unless someone is out snatching Triton v8 emblems, which I doubt.
I just picked my new harmonic balancer up this afternoon from the dealer. It appears that the computer shows what you all describe being the pulley and balancer are two parts held together with bolts. The new one I got today Is one piece. There are no more bolts holding the pulley & balancer together. And it came with the crank sensor wheel already screwed in place. $149 which surprisingly enough was $50 cheaper than the local auto parts store.
I just picked my new harmonic balancer up this afternoon from the dealer. It appears that the computer shows what you all describe being the pulley and balancer are two parts held together with bolts. The new one I got today Is one piece. There are no more bolts holding the pulley & balancer together. And it came with the crank sensor wheel already screwed in place. $149 which surprisingly enough was $50 cheaper than the local auto parts store.





