this might be long........

i thought i had made sure that i had all the right part for rad. and fan clutch change out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!YEA RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!

changed my fan clutch- no issue, it was cake....but...when i went to change the radiator found out on the new one that the trans line did not fit.. found out that my radiator which is the 2nd for the truck is the 2row w/ no A/C w/ 5/16ths trans lines. also found out oem radiator is 1row radiator w/ 5/16ths trans lines w A/C.....had a bad day....

changing radiator due to leak....... and getting ready to travel with the BEAST......

anyway when i changed my rad last yr i also changed the fan clutch. the new clutch never disengaged it was always on, hence the roar people talk about, i could never get it to disengage so i lived with it till i got the leak and got tired of putting water in it. and in the past was told that "THE ROAR" is normal by ford and the guy i go to for the deep stuff since he is ASE certified and has the tools.......so while waiting for the 2row with 5/16thns trans lines to come in, i reinstalled my old one... i have the new clutch in and it does disengage when it comes up to temp, but will reengage soon after. it will not disengage at highway speed, i can only disengage it when i put a garden hose in the overflow bottle and cool the water that way..............

so the question is- is the fan clutch to close to the radiator since the oem is a 1row and i am running a 2row since the clutch will not disengage even at highway speeds or is the v6 running hot and that is normal spec. or do i need to go with a cooler thermostat, running the fan all the time has killed me on gas the past yr. Or do i just need to stick with the oem 1row rad....

ya' ll let me know, i would like to get some mpgs back and not sound like a freight train...........