Adding Stop leak :
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: London Ohio
Adding Stop leak :
Im getting ready to add some stop leak to my radieator, just as safty measure for leaks like the intake, timming cover etc. But all i see is the plastic tank on the side no radieator cap. What is this how will it get sucked in?. Im from the old days and all we ever used was Bars stop leak,with the pellots in it. Should i use another brand?. anyone ever used this before. And does anyone no what it cost to have the intake Gasket replaced ? or what ever you have to do to these engines ? Thanks Phill
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN
Phill,
Don't add any stop leak. These gaskets are plastic and it will not adhere to the material. I tried it myself and it lasted about two weeks. There is no band-aid fix. The stop leak can clog the radiator, thermostat, heater core. It's more trouble than it's worth.
If you're aware of the problem and signs of failure, you should be able to catch the gasket failure before the engine is damaged. If the coolant level drops, don't ignore it.
As for the cost:
Labor for the Front cover is 7.6 With A/C - 6.6 Hours Without A/C, plus around $80.00 for parts and supplies. Total cost would depend on where you go. Dealer labor is higher but they are also the most qualified because they have a lot of experience with it.
The lower intake can be done by any mechanic; it's not too complicated. Cost is around $400.00 at an independent shop, up to around $650.00 at a Ford dealer.
Don't add any stop leak. These gaskets are plastic and it will not adhere to the material. I tried it myself and it lasted about two weeks. There is no band-aid fix. The stop leak can clog the radiator, thermostat, heater core. It's more trouble than it's worth.
If you're aware of the problem and signs of failure, you should be able to catch the gasket failure before the engine is damaged. If the coolant level drops, don't ignore it.
As for the cost:
Labor for the Front cover is 7.6 With A/C - 6.6 Hours Without A/C, plus around $80.00 for parts and supplies. Total cost would depend on where you go. Dealer labor is higher but they are also the most qualified because they have a lot of experience with it.
The lower intake can be done by any mechanic; it's not too complicated. Cost is around $400.00 at an independent shop, up to around $650.00 at a Ford dealer.
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Plainfield, IN
Just some more thoughts on the idea
I have had decent results with Bars Leak, but in no way want to contradict AJRango's experience. But consider this.
My wife has a 1996 GM 3.4 liter. This engine is well known in ALL repair shops for a head gasket coolant leak. Did you think Ford was on only sucker for the plastic head gasket salesman, think again. Plus if you mix in the Dex-Cool coolant that barely lasts 3 years before rust like you have never seen before sits in, and you have the makings for a disaster. The cost of repair is horendous on these engines, I started running Bars leak at 80k miles and dont regrett it. My frined had to put a junk yard engine in his 1998 last year.
I have a 1988 Bronco 2 4x4 with 178K MILES, I will tell you that that vehichle is better built than any SUV Ford is building today, I also have a new 2003 F150 to compare it to. The only fault of the B2 is if it overheats the heads can crack, so you have to prevent coolant loss. Since it is a trail rig, you can bet it sees some rough action. I use Bars leak in it and carry a spare for emergencies. Last week I pulled my heater core, and hoses, no junk in them but due to their ageI replaced both. Toped off the coolant and added a half stick of BL. (Im a computer engineer, so no affiliation with any auto parts supplier by the way) I can tell you my F150 will get it before 80K just based on the history of the vehicle. There is my experience, now here is my theory.
When a gasket seperates its exposes metal. The metal and the reaction with air causes the BL to stop the leak. The fact that BL dosn't stick to plastic is good, or any other surface within the cooling system. The number one thing to keep out of a cooling system is air, you do that by keeping the coolant in and toped off at all times. Once you get air you get corrosion.
I think you can add the BL into the overflow, but I need to do more research. You can look below your tank and see a T fitting from the overflow to the lower hose of the rad. That looks like the path into the system to me. Now get this...
Page 229 of my F150 2003 Owner manual "Use of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, may darken the color of Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan"
That is all the endorsement I need to use them on vehichles with a history as leakers. Good luck, hope this has helped, this is a great site and I like exchanging ideas with everyone.
Tim
My wife has a 1996 GM 3.4 liter. This engine is well known in ALL repair shops for a head gasket coolant leak. Did you think Ford was on only sucker for the plastic head gasket salesman, think again. Plus if you mix in the Dex-Cool coolant that barely lasts 3 years before rust like you have never seen before sits in, and you have the makings for a disaster. The cost of repair is horendous on these engines, I started running Bars leak at 80k miles and dont regrett it. My frined had to put a junk yard engine in his 1998 last year.
I have a 1988 Bronco 2 4x4 with 178K MILES, I will tell you that that vehichle is better built than any SUV Ford is building today, I also have a new 2003 F150 to compare it to. The only fault of the B2 is if it overheats the heads can crack, so you have to prevent coolant loss. Since it is a trail rig, you can bet it sees some rough action. I use Bars leak in it and carry a spare for emergencies. Last week I pulled my heater core, and hoses, no junk in them but due to their ageI replaced both. Toped off the coolant and added a half stick of BL. (Im a computer engineer, so no affiliation with any auto parts supplier by the way) I can tell you my F150 will get it before 80K just based on the history of the vehicle. There is my experience, now here is my theory.
When a gasket seperates its exposes metal. The metal and the reaction with air causes the BL to stop the leak. The fact that BL dosn't stick to plastic is good, or any other surface within the cooling system. The number one thing to keep out of a cooling system is air, you do that by keeping the coolant in and toped off at all times. Once you get air you get corrosion.
I think you can add the BL into the overflow, but I need to do more research. You can look below your tank and see a T fitting from the overflow to the lower hose of the rad. That looks like the path into the system to me. Now get this...
Page 229 of my F150 2003 Owner manual "Use of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, may darken the color of Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan"
That is all the endorsement I need to use them on vehichles with a history as leakers. Good luck, hope this has helped, this is a great site and I like exchanging ideas with everyone.
Tim