Engine turns but will not fire (sometimes)
#1
Engine turns but will not fire (sometimes)
First post here at this forum. For two times now in the last 3 weeks I've had a problem cranking my f150. The engine turns fine but it will not "turn over". After a few minutes of trying it will finally crank. It will suddenly decide to crank like normal Seems to have enough "juice" in the battery since the motor will turn and turn. When it finally does crank, it runs fine. I believe I can hear the whine of the fuel pump when I first turn the key. I put a new fuel filter on about 4 months ago. I only have one key. Where would be a good place to start? My truck is a 2001 f-150 automatic extended cab v-6 with 62000 miles. Thanks for any help.
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I had this problem too!!!!
Ummmm i had this problem too on my 4.6L v8 any ways its some air control valve or som10 like that i dont remember but mine did it when i drove the car and the engine barely got warmed up then id go to school and the truck would sit for up to 8, 9 hrs it only got worse, i took it to the dealership and they tried to fix it once couldent fix it then it kept doin it so i brought it back a 2nd time and they fixed it it hasent done it since they worked on it. ITS UNDER WARRENTY STILL TAKE IT IN
#7
cranks but won't start...
mine cranks and occasionally sputters like it's trying to start. Had zero fuel psi at the firewall's schrader valve. Replaced fuel filter - no luck. Removed fuel line from pump at filter - dribbles fuel for 1 second when key is turned on. Pump only can be heard for 1 second. Tested the pump on the bench after removing it - ran fine - damn !! Will be putting a new fuel pump in tomorrow (already paid for it). Found a pump in Melbourne FL for $105 total $.
CYBERSPACE AUTOMOTIVE PERFORMA
839 E NEW HAVEN AVE
MELBOURNE, FL 329015458
Beats the $378 Ford wants (imust be for the whole sending/pump assy !). Checked spark at the #1 plug wire - was orange. Put a new coil pack in just in case.
Well, finally fixed the problem: replaced the fuel pump relay - $9. Symptoms were the pump (both old and new) would pump for 1 second only. Volt meter on the connector at the pump showed 12 volts for 1 second then 6.2 volts afterwards. Checked the inertia switch for voltage from the relay - it had the exact same votages. Went to the relay - opened it, contacts were clean and "operated". Jumpered the always hot terminal inside the relay box (relay removed) and the normally open terminal and now have 12 volts at the pump and inertia switch. Even though the relay was energizing, it dropped the output voltage by 1/2. Moral to my story is when the manual says to check all electrical connections before replacing parts, you better do it or waste alot of money learning the hard way.
CYBERSPACE AUTOMOTIVE PERFORMA
839 E NEW HAVEN AVE
MELBOURNE, FL 329015458
Beats the $378 Ford wants (imust be for the whole sending/pump assy !). Checked spark at the #1 plug wire - was orange. Put a new coil pack in just in case.
Well, finally fixed the problem: replaced the fuel pump relay - $9. Symptoms were the pump (both old and new) would pump for 1 second only. Volt meter on the connector at the pump showed 12 volts for 1 second then 6.2 volts afterwards. Checked the inertia switch for voltage from the relay - it had the exact same votages. Went to the relay - opened it, contacts were clean and "operated". Jumpered the always hot terminal inside the relay box (relay removed) and the normally open terminal and now have 12 volts at the pump and inertia switch. Even though the relay was energizing, it dropped the output voltage by 1/2. Moral to my story is when the manual says to check all electrical connections before replacing parts, you better do it or waste alot of money learning the hard way.
Last edited by gidzhome; 02-22-2004 at 10:31 AM.