I should have been more clear, sorry. When I removed the "complete" radiator to exchange it, I had to remove the 2 AT lines that go to the integral AT cooler in the radiator. This would be a maximum of what may come out when you simply cut one of these lines to install a temperature gauge fitting. If you don't have an auxiliary cooler the 2 AT lines just go to the radiator. If you have an auxiliary cooler the output line of the integral radiator AT cooler goes over to the auxiliary cooler then back to the transmission. RS9000s are excellent shocks. I like to choose my own settings, even if you rarily change them after that. I also like to click them to firm on the rear when I tow/haul.

 

Thanks for the help. Everybody ask me why I want the 9000s and say I should go with the 5000s. I want the 9000s for the same reason you have them.

 

You're Welcome- Good luck with your transmission and shocks.

 

Got the manifold today. Just need the rest of the stuff now.

 

King James:
I'll post a picture tonight of my manifold installation once my wife comes home with the truck. It might help you to see how I did it, and where I installed it.

gah

 

Here are some pictures that might help.

Autometer manifold.




Manifold and sender for engine coolant temperature.




gah

 

Thanks for the pics. Now I have a better idea oh how to install it. How long did it take you to install the manifold and where did you route the lines to the inside?

 

Installing the manifold takes less than an hour. I used a 1" hole saw and cut through the floor on the transmission hump very close to the floor vent on the right side. I pulled the carpet back to make the hole and installed a large grommet. I had to run four lines through the hole and don't forget that the temp sender has to fit through the hole. You can't remove the sender so a large hole is required. If you can find a grommet on the firewall that may be the way to go. The gauges come with 6ft of tubing which is more than enough to reach all of the tie in points.

It's really not a difficult job at all. Just allow yourself half a day so that you don't rush.

gah

 

I found this wire once that was cut at both ends. It went through a gromment in the fire wall. I might use that. That wire I found was used for a CB becasue I notice a couple holes in the fender along the hood crack for an antenna mount. There is also 3 holes in a triangle shape inside so that must've been where the holder for the mic was. Also installeing an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge so I can use that same grommet.

 

Another question for you gah. Where did you run the wiring and all that through to get it to the pillar up to the gauges?

 

King James:
Many on this board have installed A pillar gauge pods and they should be able to help you.

Here's where I put my gauges.



gah

 

King James,
I have pillar mounted water temperature and tranny temp gages, both mechanical. I routed the gage capillary tubing through a large existing firewall penetration on the drivers side. I then chose to run the capillary tubing on the outside of the dash on the drivers side by the door frame up to the pillar. The capillary tubing can be tucked underneath and covered by the rubber sealing strip at the door frame so that it is not visible. I tried to find a way to route the lines from the firewall penetration to the pillar directly through the dash, but the sender on the gage was too big to fit through any of the creases in the dash, so I gave up on that idea.

Hope this helps.
GDG

 

Thanks GDG. My tranny temp and oil pressure are electrical. My boost is mechanical. I have to do the wiring so I was able to run the stuff through the dash. Just got to figure out how to get the old oil pressure senser off so I can put the other on(screw you ford for your dumb design). The stupid 4x4 crap is in the way so it is a %$^%$ to get to.

 

Question. Are mechanical guages that much better than electrical? I know mechanical are supposed to be more accurate, I was just always afraid of springing a leak. I had a set of Sunpro water temp, oil pressure, and volts in my old s10 that were electrical and they always seemed to give me accurate readings.

Gah
Sweet setup there with the guages. What all guages do you have there?

 

KY:
I'm pleased with how the gauges came out. They look good at night as well with a green sock over the bulbs. I have oil pressure, trans temp, coolant temp and engine oil temp. All four gauges are mechanical.



The only mechanical gauge that could leak into the cab is the oil pressure gauge. The temperature gauges all use an argon filled copper tube that attaches the sender to the gauge. As the argon heats up, the gauge needle moves.

Benefits of mechanical gauges.
1. Don't require any power unless you want illumination. Then they need + and - connections.
2. Provide temp readings with the engine off and key out of ignition (not sure if this is that useful).
3. Less chance of failing due to simpler design.
4. Supposedly less affected by vibration.
5. Readings not based on resistance. Terminals can corrode thereby increasing resistance and resulting in inaccurate readings.
6. Don’t require sender to be grounded.
7. NASCAR uses mechanical gauges so must be good.