Has anyone changed their tranny fluid yet?, I want to do it myself, and was wondering if it was difficult.I'l probably buy Motorcraft fluid just to be safe, unless its the same price as synthetic, Also when does everyone change teir differential fluids? Thanks for any input
Gino

------------------
Gino Tedesco, '99 XLT 5.4l, SUPERCHIPPED, 3" Gibson catback exhaust,4x4 S/C Flareside D.wedge bl/Dk.graph, factory sidesteps & Tonneau cover, Manik grlgaurd w/Piaa lights, 305/70-16 Goodyear Wrangler AT/S tires
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/s...916/index.html

 

GinosF150,

You might want do a search on this topic and see what you find. We have had some hum-dingers about which fluid to use, when to use it, etc, etc.

And depending on what transmission you have there are only certain types of fluids that you _CAN_ use...

Randy

 

Howdy Gino,

I just recently picked up 3 cases of Valvoline Dura Blend semi synthetic blend. My TRuCK requires Mercon V. Valvoline states on Da label that it meets Mercon V specs. I looked at Mobil 1 and it didn't specify that it meet Mercon V specs. Although I will call Mobil to verify.

As far as changing Da fluid it not that bad of a job.

First THaNG I do is to remove the converter drain plug cover. Then visually (no fingers allowed unless you want to be called StuBBy) locate the drain plug by having an assistant bump the starter. (Don't start the truck, just flick the key enough to rotate the converter.)Once Da plug is in position.

I use a large plastic bin (the kind that ya purchase to organize your STuFF in.) Make sure you buy one that is deep. The one I use is aprox 2'x 3' x 1.5' deep. I just slid that under the tranny pan and begin by removing all the bolts. Starting with the inner ones and working outward. Then I usually remove slowly the ones that are holding the rear of the pan on and allow the pan to tip down ward. This allows most of the fluid to drain out of the pan. Then just remove the remaining bolts and the pan. Remove the filter and make sure that the seal (orangish color) comes off with the filter.

If the seal remains in the pump bore "Do Not Use a Screwdriver to remove it." Just your finger. That bore is part of the inlet for the tranny pump and if it is damaged and doesn't seal properly you will suck air into the pump. Causing cavatation and fluid aeration. Not a good THanG!.

Then remove the converter drain plug and get a cup of coffee. After allowing the fluid to drain out. The more the better. While your waiting you can clean the tranny pan with a clean rag. There should be a magnet in the pan, clean this also.

Install a new filter (I highly Insist that you purchase one from a FoRD dealer personal preference) That way if Ford made any changes to the filter design you'll be sure to have Da latest and greatest

Then reinstall the pan (the gasket that was on there should be a reusable type. When you purchase your filter from the dealer you can inquire about the gasket.

Snug the bolts up, the gasket was designed as to prevent it from being crushed upon tightening the bolts down. (although, remember that these bolts are not the bolts that hold the FreaKiN TRuCK together.)

Reinstall the converter drain plug (Ford recommends that the plug be replaced) and for Petes sake don't use any type of Teflon tape or pipe sealant on the threads. (The small pieces of tape or sealant can get into small orifices, valves, etc. and cause all sorts of problems up to and including premature transmission failure.

It’s a good THaNG to also flush your cooler and lines out. I do this by removing the cooler out line and placing it into your big drain pan.

With the line removed, then add aprox 6 quarts of the proper tranny fluid. Then start the vehicle (an assistant helps) and continue to add fluid while the assistant watches the fluid coming out the cooler line. When the fluid coming out looks new, turn off the vehicle and reinstall the cooler line.

Restart the vehicle and continue adding fluid. As your adding fluid rotate the gear selector throughout each gear position, with the brake on pausing in each position. Recheck the fluid level, continue adding fluid and rotating through the gear positions until it is at the proper level listed in the owner’s manual. (Ambient level)

Check for leaks, road test for at least 25 miles to warm the trans to operating temperature. Recheck the fluid level, it should now be at the level specified in the owners manual. (Operating temperature level)

That's it in a HuGE NutSheLL.



------------------
2000 F-150 Lariat, Flareside, Black, SC, FOxFO, 5.4L, 4R70W TranZ, 3.55 Limited Slip Rear Axle, Garmin Street Pilot Color GPS, Bed Rug, ExTang Saber Tonno, CatchALL Floor Mat's, VentShade Visors, Limo BLaCK Tint'd Windows, PIAA Platinum Super White Headlight Bulbs with XTra Technology, FLoWMaSTer 40 Series MuFF, Mobil 1 5W-30 and Motorcraft 820-S Filter, SuperFReaKiN - FLiPCHiP Cal'd for Regular and Premium FueL,

Soon..............

AiRaID FIPK, Expedition Front and Rear Sway Bars, F-1 HooD, P305/75/R17 BFG KO's, 3" Body LiFT

www.tnugent.com/

 

LoNE WoLF, is the filter on the 4r70w a push on type, I haven't ever done an auto, rebuilt many a T-5 in mustangs, but never an auto.
Thanks in advance
Todd

------------------
1998 F-150 SC Flareside 4.6 Wht/Grey Auto
Additions: Line-X 8-31-99
4.10:1 Pro Auburn, Custom made cold air induction system, Flowmaster exhaust, N2O (when needed)
Epic Lakota Chrome wheels and 285-75-16 Bridgestone Dueler AT (no lift and no rubbing at all) tires.

 

Howdy Todd,

Yep, It'Z Da push on type.

------------------
2000 F-150 Lariat, Flareside, Black, SC, FOxFO, 5.4L, 4R70W TranZ, 3.55 Limited Slip Rear Axle, Garmin Street Pilot Color GPS, Bed Rug, ExTang Saber Tonno, CatchALL Floor Mat's, VentShade Visors, Limo BLaCK Tint'd Windows, PIAA Platinum Super White Headlight Bulbs with XTra Technology, FLoWMaSTer 40 Series MuFF, Mobil 1 5W-30 and Motorcraft 820-S Filter, SuperFReaKiN - FLiPCHiP Cal'd for Regular and Premium FueL,

Soon..............

AiRaID FIPK, Expedition Front and Rear Sway Bars, F-1 HooD, P305/75/R17 BFG KO's, 3" Body LiFT

www.tnugent.com/

 

Thanks LoNE WoLF,

That was a big help, hopefully I'll find some time to do it..an I'll check into the oil also.

------------------
Gino Tedesco, '99 XLT 5.4l, SUPERCHIPPED, 3" Gibson catback exhaust,4x4 S/C Flareside D.wedge bl/Dk.graph, factory sidesteps & Tonneau cover, Manik grlgaurd w/Piaa lights, 305/70-16 Goodyear Wrangler AT/S tires
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/s...916/index.html

 

What brand of Mercon V do you all suggest. When I was talking to the parts guy at the local Ford dealership he said that Texaco has been making the oil for them.
Thanks Lone Wolf for the info, I went and picked up a filter from Ford yesterday.


------------------
1998 F-150 SC Flareside 4.6 Wht/Grey Auto
Additions: Line-X 8-31-99
4.10:1 Pro Auburn, Custom made cold air induction system, Flowmaster exhaust, N2O (when needed)
Epic Lakota Chrome wheels and 285-75-16 Bridgestone Dueler AT (no lift and no rubbing at all) tires.