Cooler Question
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, AZ, USA
KYFordFreak,
1) No fan on the SD cooler. Yes, the temp does climb when maneuvering the trailer a LOT, but not more than 180F. This is the only time that a lack of fan is an issue. If I'm stuck in traffic and I think the trans is getting to hot (not often), I put the truck in neutral or Park & wtch the temp go down.
2) It does take quite a while for the trans to heat up in the winter. The gauge doesn't even move by the time I get to work! This winter I'll probably block 1/2 the cooler with cardboard to see if that helps.
3) I think I still have the original brackets (with the factory PN), somewhere on my bench. I'll look tonight & let you know.
4) No bother...I Don't mind helping out.
One additional note: I am using a synthetic fluid, from
LE Inc. I'll post the part number after I get home. I did notice the operating temp rise 5-10F, but I think that is due to better heat transfer of the oil. I buy it in 6 gallon containers & pay Jiffy Lube to do their transfer majic, once per year & have a local shop change the filter every other year.
Tony
1) No fan on the SD cooler. Yes, the temp does climb when maneuvering the trailer a LOT, but not more than 180F. This is the only time that a lack of fan is an issue. If I'm stuck in traffic and I think the trans is getting to hot (not often), I put the truck in neutral or Park & wtch the temp go down.
2) It does take quite a while for the trans to heat up in the winter. The gauge doesn't even move by the time I get to work! This winter I'll probably block 1/2 the cooler with cardboard to see if that helps.
3) I think I still have the original brackets (with the factory PN), somewhere on my bench. I'll look tonight & let you know.
4) No bother...I Don't mind helping out.
One additional note: I am using a synthetic fluid, from
LE Inc. I'll post the part number after I get home. I did notice the operating temp rise 5-10F, but I think that is due to better heat transfer of the oil. I buy it in 6 gallon containers & pay Jiffy Lube to do their transfer majic, once per year & have a local shop change the filter every other year.
Tony
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, AZ, USA
KYFordFreak,
All the pics are uploaded.
The PN for the cooler I have id: XC3H-7A095-AA The link to the picture you posted "generally" looks like mine. The 2 "ears" on the top, I removed by drilling out the pop rivets.
The PN for LE's trans fliud is: 1107.
Anyone using these instructions does so at their own risk. I assume NO responsibility for the consequenses of anyone folowing these instructions.
The pic's I posted show all joints (except al to steel) welded. Disregard any rust...I was in a rush & never bothered to tear it al apart to paint it. The lower support bracket can be bolted together to the lower brace.
Text description of the Cooler mounting:
I am assuming you have already removed the grille, grille support, and associated parts.
NOTE: THIS INSTALL WAS ORIGINALLY DEVELOPED ON A 97 F150 W/ 5.4L & E4OD. OTHER COOLERS & MODEL YEARS MAY VARY & DICTATE A DIFFERENT INSTALLATION METHOD.
Most of you are likely to figure this out, but here's a detailed process anyway....
Parts & Tools:
1) SD Cooler
1) drill motor w/ assorted bits.
5) 1/4-20 x 3/4? stainless socket head cap screws (allen)
5) 1/4-20 x 1.5? stainless socket head cap screws (allen)
10) 1/4" Stainless flat washers
10) 1/4" Stainless split lock washers
Steel, as described below.
Soap stone (or a marker you don't care about)
Optional: Safety wire drill fixture, safety wire & safety wire pliers.
Process:
1) Remove the wide mounting ears on the top of the cooler. They are not needed: The remaining tabs are sufficient to mount the top of the cooler to the radiator core support. Note that there is an offset. Orient the offset inward, towards the AC condensor.
2) Cut 1x1 square steel, to the length of the bottom 2 brackets of the cooler.
3) Match drill holes in the bottom brackets of the cooler, to the steel just cut.
4) Cut 1/8"x2" wide flat steel, long enough to go from the top of the bottom bracket, to the lower radiator core support.
5) Match drill 4 holes in the upper radiator core support, to the upper brackets on the cooler.
6) Mount the square tube to the lower brackets.
7) Use the 1/4-20 short hardware to hold the cooler in place.
8) Eyeball the 2" strap to a convenient mounting place on the lower core support. Mark the position of the strap, on the lower cooler bracket, using soap stone. Beware of the hood latch support. DO NOT USE ANY EXISTING HARDWARE FROM THE HOOD LATCH SUPPORT TO MOUNT YOUR COOLER...YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO LATCH YOUR HOOD!
9) Remove the cooler from the vehicle.
10) Realign the strap to the lower cooler bracket. Match drill at least one, if not 2 holes.
11) Mount the lower support to the lower cooler bracket.
12) Remount the cooler onto the vehicle.
13) Match drill the cooler support bracket to the lower core support.
14) Connect the cooler to the trans cooler loop. Try to retain use of the radiator tank trans cooler (plumb in series - Rad cooler first, then the SD cooler you just mounted.).
You can probably figure out the rest...
15) Start motor & check for leaks
16) Test drive & check for leaks.
Hope this helps!
Tony
All the pics are uploaded.
The PN for the cooler I have id: XC3H-7A095-AA The link to the picture you posted "generally" looks like mine. The 2 "ears" on the top, I removed by drilling out the pop rivets.
The PN for LE's trans fliud is: 1107.
Anyone using these instructions does so at their own risk. I assume NO responsibility for the consequenses of anyone folowing these instructions.
The pic's I posted show all joints (except al to steel) welded. Disregard any rust...I was in a rush & never bothered to tear it al apart to paint it. The lower support bracket can be bolted together to the lower brace.
Text description of the Cooler mounting:
I am assuming you have already removed the grille, grille support, and associated parts.
NOTE: THIS INSTALL WAS ORIGINALLY DEVELOPED ON A 97 F150 W/ 5.4L & E4OD. OTHER COOLERS & MODEL YEARS MAY VARY & DICTATE A DIFFERENT INSTALLATION METHOD.
Most of you are likely to figure this out, but here's a detailed process anyway....
Parts & Tools:
1) SD Cooler
1) drill motor w/ assorted bits.
5) 1/4-20 x 3/4? stainless socket head cap screws (allen)
5) 1/4-20 x 1.5? stainless socket head cap screws (allen)
10) 1/4" Stainless flat washers
10) 1/4" Stainless split lock washers
Steel, as described below.
Soap stone (or a marker you don't care about)
Optional: Safety wire drill fixture, safety wire & safety wire pliers.
Process:
1) Remove the wide mounting ears on the top of the cooler. They are not needed: The remaining tabs are sufficient to mount the top of the cooler to the radiator core support. Note that there is an offset. Orient the offset inward, towards the AC condensor.
2) Cut 1x1 square steel, to the length of the bottom 2 brackets of the cooler.
3) Match drill holes in the bottom brackets of the cooler, to the steel just cut.
4) Cut 1/8"x2" wide flat steel, long enough to go from the top of the bottom bracket, to the lower radiator core support.
5) Match drill 4 holes in the upper radiator core support, to the upper brackets on the cooler.
6) Mount the square tube to the lower brackets.
7) Use the 1/4-20 short hardware to hold the cooler in place.
8) Eyeball the 2" strap to a convenient mounting place on the lower core support. Mark the position of the strap, on the lower cooler bracket, using soap stone. Beware of the hood latch support. DO NOT USE ANY EXISTING HARDWARE FROM THE HOOD LATCH SUPPORT TO MOUNT YOUR COOLER...YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO LATCH YOUR HOOD!
9) Remove the cooler from the vehicle.
10) Realign the strap to the lower cooler bracket. Match drill at least one, if not 2 holes.
11) Mount the lower support to the lower cooler bracket.
12) Remount the cooler onto the vehicle.
13) Match drill the cooler support bracket to the lower core support.
14) Connect the cooler to the trans cooler loop. Try to retain use of the radiator tank trans cooler (plumb in series - Rad cooler first, then the SD cooler you just mounted.).
You can probably figure out the rest...
15) Start motor & check for leaks
16) Test drive & check for leaks.
Hope this helps!
Tony
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
Thanks for all the trouble you have went to. That will be a lot of help to many people.
One last question. Were you not able to mount it in the location of the stock cooler, down lower on the passenger side? I can see that up there it is in a more direct airflow but it blocks the AC cendensor and radiator. I do want more cooling for the tranny but not at the expense of engine or AC cooling. I might have to see what I can come up with as far as mounting locations and hardware. You more than gave me a few ideas. While it is now a all day project it might be worth it in the end.
One last question. Were you not able to mount it in the location of the stock cooler, down lower on the passenger side? I can see that up there it is in a more direct airflow but it blocks the AC cendensor and radiator. I do want more cooling for the tranny but not at the expense of engine or AC cooling. I might have to see what I can come up with as far as mounting locations and hardware. You more than gave me a few ideas. While it is now a all day project it might be worth it in the end.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, AZ, USA
KYFordFreak,
Even in the AZ summers(>110F), towing the boat (~3000lb), or a heavier load, I have not noticed the engine running hotter, or deficiencies in the AC.
The water temp will top out at ~205, with a heavy foot and heavy load. But that's only temporary. After the rig starts moving and drawing more air than the fan can, it cools back down to 195 (thermostat temp).
Particularly in Ky, I don't think you will have a problem.
By the way, I mounted it high, for max airflow, and because of clearance problems with mounting it lower.
Tony
Even in the AZ summers(>110F), towing the boat (~3000lb), or a heavier load, I have not noticed the engine running hotter, or deficiencies in the AC.
The water temp will top out at ~205, with a heavy foot and heavy load. But that's only temporary. After the rig starts moving and drawing more air than the fan can, it cools back down to 195 (thermostat temp).
Particularly in Ky, I don't think you will have a problem.
By the way, I mounted it high, for max airflow, and because of clearance problems with mounting it lower.
Tony
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
I have been thinking the SD cooler may be too much for me. I'm sure it would way more than do the job in the heat but it might keep it too cold and never warm up in the winter. Max airflow is not a concern to me. Good to hear is doesn't hamper any other cooling.
Also, if it's not feasiable to mount it down lower that could be a problem too. I might be mounting two off road lights to the fiberglass crossbar in front of the radiator behind my billet grill.
I need to check all my dimensions and do a mock up of what will and will not work.
Thanks for all your help, I hope I can fit it all up there.
Also, if it's not feasiable to mount it down lower that could be a problem too. I might be mounting two off road lights to the fiberglass crossbar in front of the radiator behind my billet grill.
I need to check all my dimensions and do a mock up of what will and will not work.
Thanks for all your help, I hope I can fit it all up there.