For whatever it's worth, my transmission runs between 195 and 225. The truck has operated at those temperatures since it was new. Ambient air temperature could be down to 40, or up to 110, the ScanGauge II shows the same temperature range.


That's a mystery. How can 2 different devices, reading the same sensor, get 2 different readings?

Out of curiosity, I would look at the routing of the ATF flow. I wonder if the 1st shop deleted and bypassed the OEM system. If the ATF is only going from the transmission to that tube & fin cooler, then back to the transmission; that tube & fin cooler is not enough to properly cool the ATF by itself.

 

Yes, definitely properly mount that cooler. It may be possible to trap air in the cooler the way it is oriented. If it won't fit, buy a diffferent cooler that will fit.

 

I have the second shop cleaning out the lines today. They also mentioned replacing the torque converter. I did check the routing to make sure it is still going through the radiator, however I have not checked to see that the lines are hooked to the proper ports. I will check that as soon as I get the truck back. I had also not thought about the mounting orientation trapping air. I have not had it back long enough yet to fix it, however I believe they are remounting that today.

I took the truck back in last night. When I did, the Torque Pro app was showing 280'. The Snap-On computer was showing 235'. I am wondering if the formula in Torque Pro could be wrong. It is showing as ((A*256)+B)/8. That is the default setting. I do know there are problems with the temperature it was at. The transmission was slipping very bad. When I would give it gas, the engine would rev up with the transmission whining, then pop into gear violently.

My biggest concern with the transmission temperature is that it never goes down. I would think that a normal system would cool off once it was on the highway with cool air going through it, or even sitting idle, but it only climbs.

 

Is there a way to tell if the fluid they are putting in is actually Mercron V?

 

Looking at your picture, I see that the tranny cooler is connected by rubber hoses. That's a extremely poor arrangement IMO. It too easy for one of them to get kinked or to delaminate internally and prevent enough fluid flow to adequately cool the transmission.


If I were you I would get one of those aftermarket temperature gauges that includes a sensor and I would attach the sensor on that transcooler and see what it shows as you're driving. The inlet side should show pretty close to the same temp as the transmission and the outlet side should be significantly cooler. If the inlet isn't close to the same temp as the tranny then you probably have no or no (ATF) fluid flow. If the outlet isn't significantly cooler than you have little or no fluid flow or not enough air flow (or too small of a cooler) and the cooler isn't cooling sufficiently. Two gauges, one connected to the cooler inlet and the other on the cooler outlet would be even better. You can use the cheap digital electronic gauges made in China and available on E-bay or one of the old non-electric bourdon type gauges that connects to the sensor via tiny metal tube. You don't even need to mount the gauges in the truck cab. Just stick them down with a tie-wrap or duct tape or a rubber band, whatever works.

Also if your tranny is slipping that WILL generate a lot of heat and that NEEDS to be fixed! Slipping will also rapidly wear out the bands in your transmission and the worn off particles can plug up the valve body and/or the transmission and causes additional problems. From everything that I've read on this thread so far I think your original shop didn't fix the slipping problem and that lead to the transmission over heating so they hung the cooler on there to hide the symptom instead of fixing the real problem.

Also from what I've read so far, I don't think either of your tranny shops are competent. It might be time to take it to Ford and get a new or a Ford Rebuilt transmission and the other CORRECT cooling system parts and replace that junk that your shop put on there and return the whole system back the way it's supposed to be.

 

Ask the shop. See how they answer. Is it a definitively "yes" or "no". Or do they stumble, mumble, then make something up about how they have a Magic JuJu ATF that is better in every car? I know of a shop that uses Amsoil fluids in everything. Motor oil, ATF, whatever. They charge more for it too. And they also tell the customers that their multi-vehicle Amsoil ATF works better.

Do you believe them? Do you trust the shop? If you think that they are incompetent, or think that they lie to you.......then it's pointless even asking. Just assume that they are using an inexpensive ATF from a drum.

Based on personal bias, I trust the shop's Snap-On equipment over a $5 app you downloaded online. Maybe try downloading another app, and compare that. My suggestion is to use ForScan, since so many people are using it with positive results. I trust my ScanGauge II, but I don't recommend that you buy it for $150.

Either way, the transmission is still hot. Too hot. And it's not cooling.

Just a thought in the back of my mind.......transmission lines are preformed, and manufactured to slide right into the OEM quick connect fittings, or wrench right on. Some shops have tubing, and are able to bend and manufacture transmission lines for any car or truck. It would probably be cheaper to install new transmission lines, than to try to clean them out.

 

Just speaking from my experience with rebuilding old vehicles; it's impossible to clean out old brake lines and old fuel lines and to make them work properly. We always end up replacing them with new tubing. I don't know if clogged lines are the root of your problems but if it is you're going to end up replacing all of the lines and the cooler.

Asking for opinions here: would it be possible to disconnect both lines at the transmission and then use something like an electric fuel pump to pump ATF through the lines and the cooler to see if the OP is getting good flow through them?

 

Multi-vehicle Amsoil ATF works very well in Ford transmissions.

 

I'd ditch that dumb "tube and fin" cooler, since you have the OEM stacked plate type that is just below it.. If the first shop just added the zip tied cooler in to help with the cooling, that ain't gonna happen because they have just reduced the fluid flow by adding the second cooler..

But, since it was overheating before they put that second cooler on, than there is some issue that needs to be found still..

I also use the Torque Pro app and it shows the same trans temp as the trucks OEM temp shows on the cluster. (my 13 F150 has a trans temp display on the dash).

I rarely get over 210* on the trans even towing my TT in 90* heat up the grades.. I only have the OEM cooler on mine and it's smaller than your OEM cooler..



Good luck!

Mitch

 

Well, I have not gotten the truck back yet. The first shop is doing a complete teardown and rebuild on it again on their dime. They are replacing the torque converter and the cooling lines. They are also remounting the trans cooler. The transcooler was a brand new one they put in when they rebuilt it the first time. They said they put them in every car they do major maintenance on. They just did a crappy job mounting it. It should be ready tomorrow afternoon.
Once I get it back, I will try out some other apps to see what they are showing for temperature and I also just ordered the MaxTow temp sensor from Amazon.

 

Looking at the way that they mounted that cooler you have to wonder if their transmission work was comparable.

Keep us posted on what they find and how the tranny performs when you get it back.

 

I don't want to disappoint you, but they just did a crappy job overall. Tube & fin is the least effective cooler design. I get it. As a shop, they are also using the least expensive part. Which probably indicates that they try to find the cheapest way to do everything else. As opposed to shops who try to do things right.

It may not be a fair comparison. But it is a fair comparison. Think of discount lube shops with a coupon. You get everything in the fine print. 4 quarts of 10W-40 oil, and the lowest price filter that they can buy in bulk. Did you save any money? They underfilled your truck by 2 or 3 quarts, used the wrong oil, and maybe cross threaded your drain plug.