As shifting from 2nd to 3rd it felt as though the shifter went past the normal position or beyond the norm 3rd gear pulled fine clutch acted same. Went to shift to 4th felt as though the shifter would almost make it into gear but never would. With grinding noise. Shifted back to 3rd still went past the normal position but pulled fine no grinding in or out of 1-2-3-5. Coming home clutch super tight forcibley shifting each gear with minamal Grinding still no 4th gear. Stopped to get petro felt as it was locked in gear. Revved moter dropped clutch and released fought shifting all the way home thks for advice! Is it worth fluid change or is it synchronizer? Thks again

 

The trans needs a rebuild. The M5OD-R2 is a light duty Mazda trans, known for input shaft bearing and shift fork issues.

 

It's manufactured date is dec 96 all parts purchased as 96 do NOT work 97 does. I do a lot of work own a remodeling business. From demo to ladders and walk boards and usually both. Would u please give recommendations as a possible upgrade in tranny or should I just rebuild maybe with modifications? All advice is well taken as I start the project of dropping and searching for! Or purchase of new parts for rebuild.

 

I think any M5OD-R2 from a 4.2, 4.9, or 5.0 98 or earlier will bolt right in. A 4.6 will not bolt up, different bellhousing pattern. 99 and newer have the shifter tower in a different location.

A stock rebuild should be fine, just don't beat on it. A ZF5 out of a Super Duty with a 4.9, 5.0, or 5.8 will bolt up, but you would need a 3" body lift (or cut a huge hole in the floor) and a different driveshaft.

The first 97 model trucks were sold early in 96, it was a major body style and mechanical changeover, that's why 96 parts don't work.

 

I'm going to get it on the ground in morning or by lunch god willing! Have took out n put back 3 trans nevertheless I've never worked on the inside of manual or auto trans! If u have any crucial points for me to make sure of, I would appreciate that! And any big no no's or don't DO's!! Needed as well or specs or personal preference on gears if needed , or synchronizes either built for hauling or continuous loads? Day in n out. One last thing to all those who have put one in and wished the could have done differently wether( clutch- torque converter, gears synchronizers to the oil going back in ) also manufacturer or size of clutch recommendations for research. Autozone or advanced ain't getting my business for any parts involved reconditioned is not for me thank u so much for taking time out of ur evening for all is rookies your knowledge is a blessing!

 

How much would a salvage yard tran cost?

 

$4-500 add clutch and pressure plate etc I'm at what I give for it ? Noticed a little milk on oil filler neck also none in crank but something plenum -intake gasket issue I have worked hard and it never lets me down. Been one of the best used pickups for work hands down fords r work horses all the rest r sissys. And it got me home I'm proud of her lol

 

The "milk" on the filler neck probably doesn't mean there is a problem. When gasoline burns, it is converted into carbon dioxide and water mostly. Every engine has some blowby and it gets worse with miles. The filler neck accumulates a litte condensed water from the blowby causing the "milk".

 

Do a complete clutch kit while you have the tranny out. Pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing/slave cylinder, pilot bearing. Resurface the flywheel (bench grinder) or replace it, might as well replace the rear main seal while you are in there.

Buy the clutch parts from rockauto.com, LUK is OE quality.