M5OD rebuild?

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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 11:54 AM
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Question M5OD rebuild?

2001 F-150 4.6L 4x4 5-speed

Well, I popped my second slave cylinder this AM at 99,800 mi. The first one went right around 40k. This would normally be a $300-400 fix, but since last time I have slapped in some custom stainless long tubes blocking access to one of the starter bolts, so the Stage 8 locking hardware will have to be removed from the passenger side, then the header, then hopefully they'll have enough room to drop the tranny. Since it is bone stock aside from the last slave cylinder and throwout bearing, and I am almost at 100k mi. I figure it's time to resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch as well.

What I don't know is what to replace it with. The shop I use recommended aftermarket. (This is a performance shop, not a tranny specific house, but I trust them and this will require a little more than typical wrenching. It also means they probably don't know all the ins and outs of the M5OD specifically.) I want performance oriented, but as durable as OEM and I haven't added enough ponies to get too carried away. It also has had a hard time finding gears and light grinding into 2nd. and 3rd. its entire life, so I'd like to finally address that as well. Synchros? I know to have them 3 seals up top replaced and sealed with RTV, but is there anything else that should be addressed while in there? Since the starter is original and not easily replaced with the headers on, I'll go ahead and have that replaced as well. This is adding up quick I'm sure.

Thanks for any help!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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find a zf-5 and throw back there and call it done. Look in the superdutys. im sure you can find one that was behind a 5.4 or v-10 and have it cleaned up. Ill say your grinding is the syncros. had the same issue with my cougar. have you ever tried clutchless shifting?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Thanks, I would look into this more as I know it's a more heavy duty tranny, but honestly I'm just about fed up with modding this thing and keeping up with maintenance or finding a shop that I think I can get a decent job out of.

I'm not willing to give up my Hurst short throw and I don't know how well I'd like the ZF5 with my 4.10 gears. I also don't want the headache of modding or sourcing the right size driveshaft, dealing with new u-joints again, etc. I also just put in a new slip yoke and yet another pinion seal, (just found out my new diff. cover is leaking $80 worth of RP all over hell as well...and it hasn't even been on there since last oil change) as well as fairly new crossbar member that supposedly may not work with the ZF5. The details just seem sketchy and since I don't want another hobby, I'm not feeling up to the task of doing all the homework and labor myself at the moment.

About the only thing I can get it to do clutchless is a 3-2 downshift IIRC.
 

Last edited by Jackal; Jan 2, 2013 at 02:59 PM. Reason: remove signature
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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understandable on not wanting a project. Just throwing that out there. also, what's the big deal with teh hurst short throws...
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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The short throw, Royal Purple, and a LOT of patience is the only reason I've been able to keep this truck and put this many miles on it. It was unbearable out of the box. Plus my short throw has a cool story to go with it. You out there Crash!?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 12:16 AM
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You can still get to the top starter bolt even with the long tubes. PITA but easier than removing headers. While you have the tranny out get a rebuild kit and do all the syncros and bearings.

EDIT: Clutch. I have Kevlar faced disk with no plastic parts and stiffer springs. I used to crack the disk near the splines.
 

Last edited by JMC; Jan 7, 2013 at 12:20 AM. Reason: clutch info
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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Thanks JMC! Seems like it's the lower bolt that is inaccessible. It would save me at least $400 parts / labor if they didn't have to remove the header...fingers crossed.

I am having them look at everything, and replacing as needed (not a rebuild I know...hope it doesn't bite me later) with Motorcraft parts except the Spec Stage 1 11.5" clutch, plus resurfacing the flywheel. I debated on segmented Kevlar for days, but decided for my current application, carbon/kevlar organic would be best.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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You were right JMC...they were able to pull it w/o removing the header...I'm surprised and relieved. You are the man as usual. Take care.
 
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