Must Bring Engine To Idle For It To Shift
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
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From: Florida
Must Bring Engine To Idle For It To Shift
I've tried getting help on other forums with this issue but still to get anything useful back. Hopefully someone here may be able to help me out with this. I apologize for the length of the post, but just want to make sure I don't exclude anything that may help resolve the issue. Thanks!
1994.5 F250 XL, 5.0 V8, 2WD E4OD Auto
Last year, shortly after I purchased this truck, I accelerated from a stop light rather quickly and I hit rev limit while stuck in 1st, and all of a sudden I noticed my speedometer and odometer weren't working either. Before this, the transmission shifted beautifully.
Ever since then, I have to accelerate super slow in order to shift out of 1st, and I have to completely let off the gas and hit idle before it will shift out of 2nd, then I can continue driving normally.
I ended up finding that the fuse was blown for the speed control sensor, guages, abs and airbag, and upon replacing it, it would continue to blow every time I reconnected the battery and tried starting. A temporary solution (still the solution to this day) was disconnecting the airbag module below the dash.
Everything ran great for about a week, and then it started running like crap again... very weak engine power as well as the same transmission issue. The instrument cluster continued to work.
I then took it to a shop where I had the speed control sensor replaced. Worked for a few days, then it started doing the same thing.
A couple months down the road, after driving it in it's condition (no cash), all of a sudden I had trouble starting up. Finally, when I did get it to start, It would sputter like crazy, emit clouds of smoke and go no faster than 3 mph's. I replaced the fuel filter to no avail, ran a couple Sea Foam treatments to no avail, and also replaced the fuel pump, which again worked for a few days and then the same thing.
I took it to the shop and there were 16 codes coming back from the computer. The mechanic cleared them out, had me drive it a couple days until it did it again, and then checked the codes again. Again, 16.
After some thought, it seemed that issues always came up when it was rainy. The mechanic found out the computer was half full of water, so this was replaced and the windshield was resealed. A Chevrolet emblem was discovered in the window seal.
This has resolved the latter issue of the engine not running, but the shifting issue continues.
NEXT... my battery light comes on and the guage drops down to aboout a quarter. Can't start at times. End up replacing the starter solonoid and alternator. Problem solved, transmission issue continues.
I notice while I'm putting in the new alternator that water is running down the firewall into the ecm. I open it up and it's got corrosion on the contacts. I clean them off with a brush and reconnect it. Hopefully it was only running down there because I had the hood open, but I caulk a channel to keep it from running down there anymore just in case.
For a while, I noticed that every time I disconnected the battery, for some reason it would start working for a few days. This, along with all these other seeming electrical issues, make me think that there's an electrical issue. Today, disconnecting the battery no longer has an effect, however.
1994.5 F250 XL, 5.0 V8, 2WD E4OD Auto
Last year, shortly after I purchased this truck, I accelerated from a stop light rather quickly and I hit rev limit while stuck in 1st, and all of a sudden I noticed my speedometer and odometer weren't working either. Before this, the transmission shifted beautifully.
Ever since then, I have to accelerate super slow in order to shift out of 1st, and I have to completely let off the gas and hit idle before it will shift out of 2nd, then I can continue driving normally.
I ended up finding that the fuse was blown for the speed control sensor, guages, abs and airbag, and upon replacing it, it would continue to blow every time I reconnected the battery and tried starting. A temporary solution (still the solution to this day) was disconnecting the airbag module below the dash.
Everything ran great for about a week, and then it started running like crap again... very weak engine power as well as the same transmission issue. The instrument cluster continued to work.
I then took it to a shop where I had the speed control sensor replaced. Worked for a few days, then it started doing the same thing.
A couple months down the road, after driving it in it's condition (no cash), all of a sudden I had trouble starting up. Finally, when I did get it to start, It would sputter like crazy, emit clouds of smoke and go no faster than 3 mph's. I replaced the fuel filter to no avail, ran a couple Sea Foam treatments to no avail, and also replaced the fuel pump, which again worked for a few days and then the same thing.
I took it to the shop and there were 16 codes coming back from the computer. The mechanic cleared them out, had me drive it a couple days until it did it again, and then checked the codes again. Again, 16.
After some thought, it seemed that issues always came up when it was rainy. The mechanic found out the computer was half full of water, so this was replaced and the windshield was resealed. A Chevrolet emblem was discovered in the window seal.
This has resolved the latter issue of the engine not running, but the shifting issue continues.
NEXT... my battery light comes on and the guage drops down to aboout a quarter. Can't start at times. End up replacing the starter solonoid and alternator. Problem solved, transmission issue continues.
I notice while I'm putting in the new alternator that water is running down the firewall into the ecm. I open it up and it's got corrosion on the contacts. I clean them off with a brush and reconnect it. Hopefully it was only running down there because I had the hood open, but I caulk a channel to keep it from running down there anymore just in case.
For a while, I noticed that every time I disconnected the battery, for some reason it would start working for a few days. This, along with all these other seeming electrical issues, make me think that there's an electrical issue. Today, disconnecting the battery no longer has an effect, however.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Thanks for the reply. I don't believe that's the issue as I'm not getting the telltale signs of a bad cps... misfiring, stuttering, refusal to start, etc. I have had those issues, but all have been resolved as of now and it seems to be strictly shifting issues now (well, a lack of power still but think it's related to the shifting issue... no stuttering, starting right up).
Last edited by mpkeith; Jun 21, 2012 at 05:18 PM.
