ZF swap.
ZF swap.
What all do I need to swap in a ZF5?
I know a body lift and the trans duh. Can I used the M5 pedal/master?
What about a clutch? And will the BW 1356 or whatever it is transfer case bolt to the zf?
Drive shaft?
Any help is appreciated.
I know a body lift and the trans duh. Can I used the M5 pedal/master?
What about a clutch? And will the BW 1356 or whatever it is transfer case bolt to the zf?
Drive shaft?
Any help is appreciated.
1) From my understanding on a 4wd it's a straight over swap. :) But there's
something about the Mazda having a different coupling on the slave that
doesn't match the ZF, or something like that? LOL :)
2) Body lift? Really? Never heard that one before but I hang out on FSB tho. :/
3) Yeah that's the kicker for guys swapping from automatics (ick) to manuals
but you should be set. :) The pedal cluster I got from the '90 F250 parts
truck was so shot I put swapped in a brake pushrod and stud in place of the
wimpy clutch pushrod and stud.
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pushrods.jpg
Had to shorten it tho...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pushrod.jpg
4) Whatever fits and floats your boat, I used RhinoPac stuff from Rockauto
except for the Dorman hydraulic line and a 6003 seal ball bearing for the pilot
bearing.
5+6) Supposed to swap right into place on a 4wd, it's the 2wd where there's
trouble with the driveshaft since the Mazda has a built-in slip-setup like an
automatic and the ZF is like a manual transmission. ;)
Alvin in AZ
ps- First post here. :)
A ZF swap has gone by the wayside.
But I do want to know how you did the pushrod thing?
My clutch pedal only works about half way and I do not want to spend 400 bucks on the pedal assembly.
But I do want to know how you did the pushrod thing?
My clutch pedal only works about half way and I do not want to spend 400 bucks on the pedal assembly.
I cut the brake pushrod off with a hacksaw and ground it as round as I could
get it and used a 6 inch de-burring wheel to polish it and remove the grinding
marks. :) It's soft steel so it was quick and easy to work with. :)
Hmmm... yeah, I had to do it twice, left it too long the first time.
--------------------------
I discovered the wear while swapping it into my '91 Bronco so figured it was
a weak spot and decided to do something about it. Seems like I welded a
grade-5 bolt (that was the diameter needed) to the spot where the old stud
was is all. Drilled a hole through it for one of those diaper-pin looking spring
clip things the brake systems use. LOL :)
It's kinda tricky in that the clutch pushrod needs a slight amount of free play
to allow the master cylinder to fully retract inside. All the way back is where
the piston uncovers the hole to let any air escape and allow new fluid to
enter.
Also there are service bulletins about the firewall flexing depending on what
year yours is. My '90 F250 parts truck had the extra part already so I just
moved it over to the Bronco. I got a really crummy picture of it, painted it
black...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/7A621.jpg
7A621 is the part number.
So it'd pay to look into all that stuff on yours? :)
As far as bleeding the system, it was my very first hydraulic clutch ever and
the crazy thing bled itself and has worked flawless ever since.
Alvin in AZ
Sorry I missed the BL comment, a zf won't fit under a 150 so you either have to do some metal work on the trans tunnel or get a body lift.
You're lucky on the bleeding the hydraulic system, I have had to rebleed mine multiple times.
You're lucky on the bleeding the hydraulic system, I have had to rebleed mine multiple times.
Is it because you guys don't have the removable hump cover or what?
This is the first I'm hearing about this and there are pickup owners on
FSB and my '90 F250 parts truck is where I got the ZF from and my '91
F150 has a E4OD in it and fits of course. Sorry, but something doesn't
add up. :/ Where's Steve83 when we actually need 'im for something? ;)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist3a.jpg
{...already put the manual pedal cluster in}
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist7m.jpg
Here's my favorite E4OD picture...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist6a.jpg
...ain't that pretty? ;)
That "second guessing" piece of crap is out of there! LOL :)
Body lifts are like a big "no-no" on FSB.
On that one I agree with 'em.
If you ain't got a hole and cover, get a cover and cut a hole! LOL :)
The floor's sheet metal is formed and ready to cut, right? :)
I didn't use the manual hole cover, I cut a hole in the E4OD cover.
Couldn't believe it, the engineers didn't put the hole in the right place.
No kidding, it was too far to one side on the parts truck too and that
same -very-slight- problem transfered to the '91 Bronco too.
Alvin in AZ
ps- If you're having trouble keeping it bled maybe all your clutch
troubles is just a leak?
Last edited by Alvin in AZ; Jun 28, 2011 at 02:38 PM.
I think it's mainly on a 97+ F-150 where you either need a body lift or need to cut a huge hole in the floor.
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A huge hole in the floor (to have to cover somehow) would
be well worth it to me to have a manual. ;) YMMV? LOL :)
It's not like it has to be pretty, just cover it with Dynamat
then hide the whole mess with carpet... ? :)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/BroncoDynamat.jpg
Alvin in AZ





