I picked up a new Autometer transmission temperature gauge and manifold yesterday from a guy on my local Mustang board. I thought $40 for both was a good deal.

I got the gauge mounted last evening:





It's not the ideal location in the panel (I would have preferred it up and to the right more), but I didn't want a gauge pod, so it's the only place it could go. And by "only" I mean 1/16" or 1/8" off in any direction, and I'd likely have been looking for a new trim panel. It is a TIGHT fit in behind that piece! The placement works out OK, though, as I can see all the markings from about 125° on up. I might even rotate it so I can see the whole scale. Who cares if it's straight? I'll pull the instrument panel to make my power and lamp connections (and will fix my freaked-out odometer at the same time).

And now on to the question:

My immediate problem is finding a place to mount the sensor manifold. I've seen posts where some have said it's mounted it in the line about 12" from the trans, and others where the line enters the radiator. I don't know if I trust this big honkin' piece of aluminum just hanging from a hard line, especially not under the truck. In the vertical piece going to the rad might not be so bad, but that would not give the recommended "down" orientation for the sensor. I thought about adding some rubber line at the radiator, and mounting it nearby in the engine bay, but I'm not sure how to go about matching up to those connections.

Can someone please post up pics and a description of how/where they have mounted theirs?

Thanks in advance.

Andy

 

EDIT: OK. I dug deeper and found posts by MitchF150 and Neal, but still couldn't figure out exactly what they were talking about. Knowing I'd not be able to sleep until I figured it out, I just crawled under the truck again, and it's blatantly obvious what they were describing. I feel like an idiot, and am now going to bed.

Andy

 

i used the test port for my tranny temps

 

I thought about that, as it's definitely the easiest route, but read in several posts that the "line out" from the T/C gives the highest temp readings in the system. And although it will be at that temperature only a short while (untill it gets to/through the coolers), it will give the best indication of what's actually happening minute by minute, such as indications that the T/C is unlocked/slipping, etc.

Andy

 

I used the trans output line but I did not want mine mounted under the truck. I figured the rain and road salt in the winter would trash it. Mine is in the line just before it enters the top of the rad. I added a piece of rubber line and put the "T" and sensor there. It works well so far and my digital gage really gives me the second to second temps.

 

Hey Andy, how's the visability of the gauge with the Gear lever in D or lower?

I saw this post yesterday and driving home, I tried to visualize a gauge in that place while driving, and I think it would block it some?

My "T" for the output line is below the trans, but still tucked up behind the front valence, so it's not all that exposed... I've had it installed for the past 6-7 years and it's not failed yet....

Oh, just FYI, my 'new' trans pan drain plug is still dry! Ok, it's only been a day or two, but we are supposed to get temps in the mid to high 70's (don't laugh, that's 'hot' for the NW!!) so we'll see how it handles the "heat" later this week!

Mitch.

 

The position is fine in "D," but "1" and "2" block it a bit. I guess it's actually a good thing I couldn't mount it any higher. It could have been blocked in "Drive." I taped a 2" circle to the dash before mounting, and now remember it didn't end up where I originally thought I wanted it. (I still wish it could have gone further right.) I never looked at the lower gears, though. :o Second gear is the only one that I'll have to move around to see the number it's pointing to, and I probably won't be doing much with the lever there anyway.

BTW, I'm 6'2, and have my seat about 1" forward of fully back, and elevated a bit. The view/visibility will shift around a bit for shorter folks or those with their seats adjusted differently.


+++ DRIVE +++




+++ SECOND +++




+++ LOW +++




Andy

 

That's cool.... Boy, you like the electronic gizmos! ha, ha!

I find I use the gear lever a lot to go into second on the grades... I approach the grade in third going 65 mph for example... Let the truck slow down to around 55 mph and press the gas to initiate the downshift into second. Once it goes into second, I pause and watch the tach to make sure the TC 'locks', then I pull the lever into second to hold it, as sometimes, the truck will want to shift back into 3rd and then it just bogs down again....

I then control my speed and keep a nice steady 50-55 mph pace with only about 1/2 throttle applied.. This keeps my rpms around 3500 and my temps will go to 195* or so on the Water and the Trans..

When I get to the top, or the grade starts to level out, I'll pop it back in D and then see what's waiting for me on the other side!

I monitor my (real) gauges constently and my rpms in these situations, as well as others, so I feel good about how things are going while I'm towing..

Mitch

 

LOL yeah, I get accused of that often! I got the compass before I had a GPS, but don't have the Garmin in the truck always, so it's nice to have (when it stays calibrated). The radar detector is an old "spare" that just lives there now.

I usually don't have to deal with the hills you have out there, Mitch, so things don't get as involved for me. That will change if we end up out west like we hope, though. (Colorado, Montana, Wyoming, maybe?)

Andy

 

Well, the gauge is functional, and I have a T/C lockup light to boot. I ended up putting a "T" in the transmission "out" line that runs transversely below the rad support. The Autometer block is for sale in the classifieds. Iended up needing 3/8, not 5/16", and this was just as simple, and only a few dollars more. The "plumbing store solution" puts the tip of the sender closer to the flow, as well.

I towed for the first time this past weekend, and having the gauge and the light is a nice combination. Although I could tell almost immediately when the T/C was unlocked by the action of the gauge, the light helped me to learn to modulate the throttle to achieve lockup more quickly and keep it there, as well, so it was worth the cost ($2.00 for a PC-style connector I didn't have lying around to connect the LED.) I also learned that 3rd gear will stay unlocked, contrary to what I've seen others post.

Locked up, indicated temps ran mostly in the 180° range on the flats, with unlocked temps in the 200°-220° area on mild inclines and in town. I saw 240+° at one point, though, when I was talking and didn't realize I was unlocked for awhile on a longish grade.

Even given my decent "normal-op" temps, I think I'm going to get hold of a SD cooler and put that in there. I found a take-off for $50 locally, and I figure if the fluid is cooler to start with, maybe I'll only peak at 220° or so instead of 240-245. I just spent $1900 getting the 4R70W rebuilt, and would like to keep things as cool as I can.

Andy

BTW, Mitch: Mine's still seeping. And know that no matter what anyone says, JB weld from the outside will not work. Will have to drop the pan and install new washers. (I got fiber ones this time, so we'll see how they hold up.)

 

Thanks for the update Andy,

So far mine is still leak free... "Third times a charm" on my dropping the pan to finally fix it! I think the key are those fiber or plastic or nylon washers both inside and out. I added a fiber type of washer on the smaller plug that you remove to drain with too.

That's interesting on your not locking in third. Was this going up the grades or on the flats? I can almost always stay in locked third on the smaller hills, but when it gets to be a longer one, I have to give it more gas which usually results in it going into second and that's where I have to watch the temp.

At least you know what your temps are now, so going ahead with the bigger cooler is probably a wise choice...

Mitch

 

It does lock in third, but I was under the impression that downshifting from OD to third it would go directly to locked state. That is not the case. It goes like this: OD Locked --> OD Unlocked --> 3rd Unlocked. Under the proper conditions, or if I feather the throttle, it will then lock back up in third. If I hit a bugger hill while locked in third, it would unlock before it would downshift into second (which did not happen on this trip).

EDIT: I ran around today for awhile sans trailer, and found my temps to be in the 160°-170° range. Ambient was about 78°F

Andy

 

Below is a pic of the "T" and the mounting location. I didn't trust the lines to provide a good ground, so you'll notice a wire run to the rad support.



Andy