4x4 ? Are all tires spinning?
4x4 ? Are all tires spinning?
I have a question.
I have used my 4x4 mostly in the dunes. Never got stuck.
However, something odd happened this past weekend.
Btw, i have a 2001 F150 SuperCrew 4x4. 4 inch procomp lift
I went MTB on Saturday.
i was driving around river bed. lots of rocks etc.
Put it in 4lo. As i was going over a 2 foot rock. I got stock. My right rear tire was spinning. The left tire was planted on the rock not moving.
My question in our F150 SCC do all tires spin or does one 1 front and 1 rear spin?
Might be a stupid question, but seems kind of odd.
I have used my 4x4 mostly in the dunes. Never got stuck.
However, something odd happened this past weekend.
Btw, i have a 2001 F150 SuperCrew 4x4. 4 inch procomp lift
I went MTB on Saturday.
i was driving around river bed. lots of rocks etc.
Put it in 4lo. As i was going over a 2 foot rock. I got stock. My right rear tire was spinning. The left tire was planted on the rock not moving.
My question in our F150 SCC do all tires spin or does one 1 front and 1 rear spin?
Might be a stupid question, but seems kind of odd.
well the front diff if im correct remains OPEN even in 4 low.So the power is gonna go to the tire with the least resistance. IE the one in the air.
The rear axle can either have a LS (limited slip) or be open. The LS is nice to have.
The rear axle can either have a LS (limited slip) or be open. The LS is nice to have.
I think the front diff is locked, hence the hopping when you try to turn in 4wd on a surface that isnt slick. With an open rear end, all of the power will be transfered to a tire that is not contacting a surface. If you really were in 4wd, the front wheels should have pulled you forward. If they didnt you either werent in 4wd, or you have something wrong with your truck.
Last edited by kansasflareside; Jan 27, 2009 at 01:01 AM.
4.2trimble and kansasflareside,
Thanks for the quick replies.
Kansasflareside,that's what i thought too. I ran some figure eights and all tires where laying down tread.
I am not hearing any popping.
I started off in 4hi and when i entered into the riverbed w/ all the rocks i put in P and got off the brake and moved into 4lo. hit the brake and moved into D. The light switched to low range and proceeded.
Weird, I just hope it is not a sign of things to come....
Thanks for the quick replies.
Kansasflareside,that's what i thought too. I ran some figure eights and all tires where laying down tread.
I am not hearing any popping.
I started off in 4hi and when i entered into the riverbed w/ all the rocks i put in P and got off the brake and moved into 4lo. hit the brake and moved into D. The light switched to low range and proceeded.
Weird, I just hope it is not a sign of things to come....
Phil6068/Kingfish51,
How can i truly tell what type of dif i have? open locked lsd etc?
i did remember the truck hopping on the gravel. (when she got stuck)
If i do have a an open system.
Which locked system to do you guys recommend?
locker or LSD
Thanks for the info....
How can i truly tell what type of dif i have? open locked lsd etc?
i did remember the truck hopping on the gravel. (when she got stuck)
If i do have a an open system.
Which locked system to do you guys recommend?
locker or LSD
Thanks for the info....
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You can read the diff tag usually to see the gear ratio and if there is an L in between the numbers it will be LS (at least it is on the 8.8 diffs). If you do have a rear LS diff, it may be worn out and time for a rebuild kit. They do make lockers for the front but for a daily driver I would not get more than LS for the front and a locker for the rear (automatic is easier to drive and easier on tires than a spool). So basically it is probably normal if only 2 of your tires spun while in 4wd. I personally would only spend money for a rear locker unless you wheel hard all of the time.
I had an open diff in my truck until last week. I replaced it with a Detroit TruTrac. I chose this one becasue it's a clutchless design. Some LS clutch's can wear out and give you the same symptoms. So, either you have an open diff OR your LS is wore out. I imagine you have an open in the rear and most of the fronts are open as well.
If you look at the sticker inside the driver's door, there are some codes. Write them down and research the numbers. There is a thread on this forum that will tell you what the numbers mean - just search for "axle decode or code" and you find it.
You could also get under your truck and look at the tags on the diff covers and write them down and search that way too.
Unless you offroad alot, I would go with LS. They are cheap and put less wear on the axles during regular driving. So far, I would highly recommend the Detroit Trutrac. I've had no pops, clicks or clunks while shifting, turning or accelerating. It sticks and gets!
If you look at the sticker inside the driver's door, there are some codes. Write them down and research the numbers. There is a thread on this forum that will tell you what the numbers mean - just search for "axle decode or code" and you find it.
You could also get under your truck and look at the tags on the diff covers and write them down and search that way too.
Unless you offroad alot, I would go with LS. They are cheap and put less wear on the axles during regular driving. So far, I would highly recommend the Detroit Trutrac. I've had no pops, clicks or clunks while shifting, turning or accelerating. It sticks and gets!
Okay found some info. According to the decodeing site
I have an H9 code. Therefore, i do have an LS/Traction Lok system
Please note that my 01 f150 scc 4x4 110k miles on it. I re geared it about 2 years ago. Removed the 3.55's and replaced them w/ 4.56's i think Can't remember at this time.(fronts and rears). Now i need to compare cost between rebuilding the rear or changing it to a locker(selectable locker, not really familiar w/ lockers right now)
Rch10007, iS your locker always engaged?
Yeti96, locker in the rear and an ls in the front?
honestly, i don't do hard core wheeling. no crazy rock crawling for me. I pretty much hit up glamis, local 4x4 trails nothing too crazy. However, i am starting to become a little bit more adventurous.(i.e. reading more about trails in the central coast and local too.)
However, i think my truck should be able to traverse 2 foot rocks. DOn't you think?
I have an H9 code. Therefore, i do have an LS/Traction Lok system
Please note that my 01 f150 scc 4x4 110k miles on it. I re geared it about 2 years ago. Removed the 3.55's and replaced them w/ 4.56's i think Can't remember at this time.(fronts and rears). Now i need to compare cost between rebuilding the rear or changing it to a locker(selectable locker, not really familiar w/ lockers right now)
Rch10007, iS your locker always engaged?
Yeti96, locker in the rear and an ls in the front?
honestly, i don't do hard core wheeling. no crazy rock crawling for me. I pretty much hit up glamis, local 4x4 trails nothing too crazy. However, i am starting to become a little bit more adventurous.(i.e. reading more about trails in the central coast and local too.)
However, i think my truck should be able to traverse 2 foot rocks. DOn't you think?
The TruTrac is not a locker, it's a worm gear LS. There are no clutches to wear out. I had been debating for a locker or LS and decided the Trutrac would do everything I planned on needing it for. I spend more time on a 1/4 mile track than I do in the dirt, so my needs are different than yours. However, my truck is also my daily driver. I wanted traction with street manners, low cost, and low maintenance.
I should also mention that now that I have traction, I have some wheel hop caused by axle wrap. This is not a major issue. It only happens when I do a burnout on dry pavement, which is never a good thing for your equipment anyways.
So, I would consider what you want to do with your truck and find a happy medium. IF I used my truck for offroad, I would put a Trutrac in both axles. Granted, I wouldn't use my truck hard, so LS is good for me. Anyone that does serious offroad will be using lockers, either air or electric. I don't do that type of trucking so I don't want to elaborate much. There are many guys on here that can tell you what's best to use, who actually offroad frequently.
I should also mention that now that I have traction, I have some wheel hop caused by axle wrap. This is not a major issue. It only happens when I do a burnout on dry pavement, which is never a good thing for your equipment anyways.
So, I would consider what you want to do with your truck and find a happy medium. IF I used my truck for offroad, I would put a Trutrac in both axles. Granted, I wouldn't use my truck hard, so LS is good for me. Anyone that does serious offroad will be using lockers, either air or electric. I don't do that type of trucking so I don't want to elaborate much. There are many guys on here that can tell you what's best to use, who actually offroad frequently.
Okay found some info. According to the decodeing site
I have an H9 code. Therefore, i do have an LS/Traction Lok system
Please note that my 01 f150 scc 4x4 110k miles on it.
Yeti96, locker in the rear and an ls in the front?
honestly, i don't do hard core wheeling. no crazy rock crawling for me. I pretty much hit up glamis, local 4x4 trails nothing too crazy. However, i am starting to become a little bit more adventurous.(i.e. reading more about trails in the central coast and local too.)
However, i think my truck should be able to traverse 2 foot rocks. DOn't you think?
I have an H9 code. Therefore, i do have an LS/Traction Lok system
Please note that my 01 f150 scc 4x4 110k miles on it.
Yeti96, locker in the rear and an ls in the front?
honestly, i don't do hard core wheeling. no crazy rock crawling for me. I pretty much hit up glamis, local 4x4 trails nothing too crazy. However, i am starting to become a little bit more adventurous.(i.e. reading more about trails in the central coast and local too.)
However, i think my truck should be able to traverse 2 foot rocks. DOn't you think?
Jeep Rubicons all have a selectable locker up front, Dodge Power Wagons MIGHT as well. Locked front ends can cause handling issues and makes it easier to break stuff.
I would lock the rear though to start off with, then if you get tired of the open front diff throw a lunchbox locker in it (replaces the diff's internals). It's cheap(er) and it doesn't require the gears to be re-setup
I would lock the rear though to start off with, then if you get tired of the open front diff throw a lunchbox locker in it (replaces the diff's internals). It's cheap(er) and it doesn't require the gears to be re-setup
That H9 is for the rear. The front is always (except possibly a 7700/8200GVWvehicle), an 8.8 reverse cut open diff. Ford does not put LS or lockers in the front. They only lockers Ford puts in the rear is on the 09 FX4.
I would not put a locker or LS in the front for day to day driving as it can cause you to continue going straight even though the wheels are turned.
I would not put a locker or LS in the front for day to day driving as it can cause you to continue going straight even though the wheels are turned.
all front ends are open on these trucks, unless aftermarket mods have been installed.
Leave front open. Lock or use a good limited slip rear. You'll be amazed at how much more traction you have. No need for front traction aids on these trucks IMO.
And yes, you have open diffs.
Leave front open. Lock or use a good limited slip rear. You'll be amazed at how much more traction you have. No need for front traction aids on these trucks IMO.
And yes, you have open diffs.


