Whats up ya'all.. Ive been surfing this board for awhile seems like a lot of knowledge is floating around here. anyways, ive got a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4.2 and 5 speed and my clutch is toast. Ive got a new oem style clutch and a new slave cylinder while i was at it, and looking under this bitch, looks like its gonna be hell to get the tranny out. Any tricks? is it easier to just pull the motor?

 

I don't know about the 4x4, but on my 4x2 the tranny had to be drained and rotated 90 degrees to get it out and in. It is not easier to pull the engine.

I would assume a shop manual will tell you how to do it, step by step.

 

Yup, purdy much a bitch of a project especially with 4x4. Gotta look back a bit for the thread that gives step by step.

Adrianspeeder

 

Here is the book's way.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
All vehicles
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2. Remove the four screws and pull the gearshift lever upward.

3. Remove the upper gearshift lever.

4. Remove the four bolts and the lower gearshift lever boot.

5. Remove the bolts and the lower gearshift lever.

6. Raise and support the vehicle.
7. If the transmission is being disassembled, drain the transmission fluid.

8. Remove the fuel line bracket from the rear of the transmission.

9. Disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission, the transfer case (if equipped) and the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S).

10. Remove the starter.

11. Note:
Index-mark the rear driveshaft yoke and the pinion flange to maintain initial driveshaft balance during installation.

Remove the rear driveshaft.

Four wheel drive vehicles
12. Remove the skid plate.

13. Note:
Index-mark the front driveshaft yoke and pinion flange and at the transfer case.

Remove the front driveshaft.

14. Remove the torsion bars and the torsion bar crossmember.

15. Remove the transfer case.

16. Remove the transfer case heat shield.

All vehicles
17. Using the special tool, disconnect the clutch hydraulic line.

18. Using the special tool, support the transmission.

Securely strap the jack to the transmission.

19. Remove the two heat shield bolts from the transmission crossmember.

20. Remove the crossmember nuts.

21. Remove the transmission mount nuts, then remove the crossmember.

22. Remove the nut holding the exhaust crossover to the transmission crossmember

23. Remove the bolts and the transmission mount and exhaust bracket.

Four wheel drive vehicles
24. Remove the bolt and disconnect the transfer case shift lever.

All vehicles
25. Remove the two engine oil pan-to-transmission bolts.

26. Remove the six engine-to-transmission bolts.

The upper bolt secures the fuel line bracket.

27. Remove the muffler from the exhaust hanger brackets.

28. Remove the tail pipe from the exhaust hanger insulator.

Tilt the exhaust downward and position it on top of the rear axle.

29. Remove the transmission.

Move the transmission rearward until the input shaft is clear of the clutch. Tilt the front of the transmission downward while lowering from the vehicle.

 

Here is what I do.

I have an SuperCab so I removed the rivets on the crossmember after the torsion bar crossmember and replaced then with bolts. I remove this when I need to pull the tranny. I pull it with the T'case attached. But I also remove the exhaust ( Flanged fittings = 7 bolts). By the time it will take you to remove the t-case I have the exhaust off. Penetrating oil on the rubber donuts make them slip right off the muffler and tail pipe hangers.

They do not tell you to, but I leave the tranny in 3rd then remove the levers. Then when I reinstall it I can turn the output shaft to line the splines of the input shaft up with the splines on the clutch disk. Then when it is installed I use a long screwdriver to shift it back into Neutral and install the lower shift lever. I remove the torsion only at the cross member but not from the lower control arms . Good luck with that on an older truck.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

PS. Air tools if you have them and a 3 foot extension for the transmission bolts.

 

Hey Guys, I'm not a newb, but new to Fords. I've got a 97 4x4 thats gonna need a clutch/slave. My question is that I've looked on Rock Auto and they list an adjustable and a non-adjustable clutch on there. I'd like to buy everything before I yank this one out, but not sure how to tell the difference on these things. Any thoughts?

 

I would recommend the adjustable one as it will take up the slack as the disk wears out.