1999 F150 4x4 clutch
1999 F150 4x4 clutch
I have done a lot of car repairs and just wondering how difficult to change the clutch in a 99 Ford 150 v6 4x4. My brother thinks I should pull the engine. But I have always changed clutches by pulling the transmission. The only exception was the 8N tractor that I split in half.
Have a tranny jack, 2 post lift and heat available. Only thing is once I start I have to finish over 1 weekend.
plan on replacing the slave cylinder throwout bearing pressure plate - what ever else needs done.
Truck mostly used as everyday driver but does tow a car hauler a few times in the summer.
Thinking centerforce is thw way to go
Have a tranny jack, 2 post lift and heat available. Only thing is once I start I have to finish over 1 weekend.
plan on replacing the slave cylinder throwout bearing pressure plate - what ever else needs done.
Truck mostly used as everyday driver but does tow a car hauler a few times in the summer.
Thinking centerforce is thw way to go
I don't know about the 4x4, but on the 4x2 all you need to do is pull the tranny.
Pull the flywheel and send it out to be ground too - if you don't, you will be living with a chattering clutch.
Pull the flywheel and send it out to be ground too - if you don't, you will be living with a chattering clutch.
The book says to remove the T-case first. That makes transmission removal easier, less weight. Besides the rear cross member gets in the way. It is a straight forward job. The quick disconnect on the slave can be removed using 2 screwdrivers by pushing the release. The white plastic needs to be pushed into the fitting to release the connection. See pic.

The only down time I have is the time required to have the flywheel refaced. You may want to check around to find a shop open on a Saturday that can do yours.
JMC
PS. The starter bolts are 13mm.
The only down time I have is the time required to have the flywheel refaced. You may want to check around to find a shop open on a Saturday that can do yours.
JMC
PS. The starter bolts are 13mm.
Just put in a clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and master cylinder this weekend. It was a job but got it done. The trans had to be turned 90 degrees to clear the shifter on top of the trans. The input shaft has to come out a long way before you can drop it down. I ended up cutting back the trans tunnel sheet metal from the shifter hole. Made the job much easier. You will probably nees to remove the exaust crossover as well as losening up the exaust manifolds, especially on the starter side it is real tight.
My flywheel was in good shape so I just sanded it with 800 sandpaper to remove any glaze. Just put in a clutch from O'Reillys. Clutch kit was 279.00 Slave cylinder 48.00, and master cylinder was 84.00. The throwout bearing is pressed in the crank but you can rent a puller for this.
My slave cylinder was leaking but the clutch was actually still in good shape (60K miles). By the time I went to the trouble I wasn't about to do this again anytime soon.
Good luck!
My flywheel was in good shape so I just sanded it with 800 sandpaper to remove any glaze. Just put in a clutch from O'Reillys. Clutch kit was 279.00 Slave cylinder 48.00, and master cylinder was 84.00. The throwout bearing is pressed in the crank but you can rent a puller for this.
My slave cylinder was leaking but the clutch was actually still in good shape (60K miles). By the time I went to the trouble I wasn't about to do this again anytime soon.
Good luck!
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Might I suggest buying a shop manual? It is by far the most important tool for the job.
Agreed but it is more useful than trusting what is posted in truck forums.
I used to leave it in 3rd and remove the lower shifter on mine. That affords me the clearance in the tranny tunnel allows me to turn the output shaft to seat the splines in the clutch disk. 3rd is easy to set back to neutral with a long screwdriver to allow the reinstall of the lower shifter.
Now with a 3 inch body lift I don't have to worry about clearance issues.
JMC
I used to leave it in 3rd and remove the lower shifter on mine. That affords me the clearance in the tranny tunnel allows me to turn the output shaft to seat the splines in the clutch disk. 3rd is easy to set back to neutral with a long screwdriver to allow the reinstall of the lower shifter.
Now with a 3 inch body lift I don't have to worry about clearance issues.
JMC






