94 f150 - clutch linkage snapped, help?

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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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94 f150 - clutch linkage snapped, help?

there is a metal rod (piston i think) that goes into the master cylinder, theres also a plastic fitting on the other end that attaches to the clutch pedal linkage right over the gas pedal... and this is where it snapped off... damn plastic parts!!! am i gonna have to replace the whole damn master cylinder or can i grab another one of these rods (piston, or whatever it is), at a scrap yard and throw it in?

thanks for any help

adam
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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There's no plastic linkage. There are plastic bushings in the linkage, and the MC pushrod has some plastic coating. Does the clutch pedal still work normally? Click my black Bronco below & look in the Hydraulic Clutch album, and get a Haynes manual or Ford service disk.

 
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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here

Originally Posted by Steve83
There's no plastic linkage. There are plastic bushings in the linkage, and the MC pushrod has some plastic coating. Does the clutch pedal still work normally? Click my black Bronco below & look in the Hydraulic Clutch album, and get a Haynes manual or Ford service disk.

check out this link
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...aster+Cylinder

the left tip of that rod (plastic) broke off.. i wonder if its as simple as yanking that whole rod out
 
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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Yes, you can pull the rod out of the MC, but that's not a stock MC. Every Ford one I've seen has a plastic coating over a steel eye, or a bare steel eye.

 
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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 09:22 AM
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ok

Originally Posted by Steve83
Yes, you can pull the rod out of the MC, but that's not a stock MC. Every Ford one I've seen has a plastic coating over a steel eye, or a bare steel eye.

cool thats probly why it decided to break then

im gonna try n yank er out

thanks
 
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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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That would be what ALLOWED it to break, but the CAUSE is probably that the linkage isn't properly adjusted. Read this caption:

 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 12:08 PM
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special tool

Originally Posted by Steve83
That would be what ALLOWED it to break, but the CAUSE is probably that the linkage isn't properly adjusted. Read this caption:

it seems i need a special tool to remove the master cylinder line. theres a dust boot i removed and it looks as though i'm supposed to take that angle to remove
the line... im tempted to cut the line itself and just "adapt" the new line onto where i've snipped it.
i've heard of people using a "clutch coupling tool" to remove it, but those kind of tools are hard to come by.

any suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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its a 4.9

Originally Posted by adam romans
it seems i need a special tool to remove the master cylinder line. theres a dust boot i removed and it looks as though i'm supposed to take that angle to remove
the line... im tempted to cut the line itself and just "adapt" the new line onto where i've snipped it.
i've heard of people using a "clutch coupling tool" to remove it, but those kind of tools are hard to come by.

any suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Isn't there a roll pin that holds the line in? I remember on a ranger I had that the line was held with a roll pin - once the pin was driven out the line slips out easily.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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It's either a roll pin, or a lock ring. If it's the ring, just push it in & pull the line out, as shown in the bottom R of this diagram:



You don't need the fork tool; a flat screwdriver or needle-nose pliers will work.
 
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