Was backing my travel trailer up my driveway, which is quite a hill. Stopped (which was stupid), then tried to get moving again. I might as well have been backed up against a wall, as it just sat there and revved (slipped) like it was in neutral. Tried a couple of times before giving up (also stupid).

No detrimental effects have showed up, but I'm wondering if I may have screwed something up that will show up later.

Also wondering if there's any PM I should do before driving it much more due to this.

Fluid looks/smells fine, but I'm considering a fluid/filter change anyway, and if I feel ambitious, I might install a shift kit. (May pick up a used deep pan, too, if it's still available, for $100.) Truck has over 200K, and don't think the trans has ever been rebuilt.

Thanks in advance.

Andy

(1999 F150 Ext cab, 4x4 w/ factory tow)

 

Well, that is about the worst thing you can do to the trans, but as long as the fluid wasn't pukin, you shouldn't have burn't anything.

Next time try low range, and if you have to make a lot of turns disconnect the 4x4 relay on the fenderwall to get ya 2wd low range. I have a switch for this purpose on the diesel.

I'd do a pan and TC fluid drain.

Adrianspeeder

 

Thanks a lot! I don't yet have the service manual set for this truck (1999), but do for a 2000. Is there much different form '99 to '00 that I'd need to worry about, and should this one show me where the 4x4 relay is located? I'd love to install a switch like that. (I was cursing the automatic 4WD at the time, as "2WD low" was my first thought!)

As for the fluid change, I'll plan on that. Any input on the deeper trans pan? Worth the $100, or should I put that toward a better/additional trans cooler instead?

Thanks again.

Andy

 

If you want better cooling, a better cooler is the only way to go. A pan, even a finned pan, does very, very little cooling.

 

Yeah, take the money you would buy the pan with and get a temp gauge and the biggest stacked plate cooler you can find.

Sorry I can't help ya on your years electrical. :o

Oh and even if you had a manual transfer case, the Center Axle Disconnect is still vacuum relay controlled, and if dad wanted 2low on the '97 with a manual tranny and xfer case I would still have to install a lockout switch.

Adrianspeeder

 

The radiator is different (smaller) in 2000.
1999 was the last of the (Super Engine Cooling).

Heavily documented here (Engines forum, year 2000-2001) if you want the poop.

 

Thanks Guys.

Adrianspeeder: I have an '88 Ranger with manual hubs and manual T/C. 2WD Low any time I want it (just can't tow the TT with it!)

The pan vs. coole answer doesn't surprise me, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. This begs the question: Additional cooler, or replacement?

Thanks, too, for he '99 vs. '00 info. Looks like I'll be adding another manual to the library.

Andy

 

Oh hell yeah, big stacked plate cooler for sure! Might as well do a gauge as well.

Arn't manual hubs nice? But for some reason ford in 97 switched to CV joints up front that uses a CAD to lock em together for 4x4.

Adrianspeeder

 

I posted a PDF file a while back that includes a quick and dirty way to wire the CAD vacuum solenoids that can force the CAD to disconnect the axle shaft at the flip of a switch. I wouldn't recommend using it to roast the tires as it'll likely cook the front diff, but for short-term use like backing a trailer up a sharp hill, it's ideal!

I can't seem to find it at the moment, but basically it'd take a DPDT on-on switch and four small wires running to the cab.

-Joe

 

Well, if you come accross it, I'd be interested is seeing it.

One question: CAD = ??

Thanks.

Andy

 

Sorry.... speaking in acronyms again.... Center-Axle Disconnect. I know I don't have it laying around here, but I swear I scanned it and had it stashed electronically.... I'll see what I can find when I get to work Monday.

edit: Found it on the other computer... never uploaded it apparently! It's just a rough sketch, but captures the essentials.



With the switch in contact with terminal A, the system engages and disengages as it normally would. With the system set to the B contacts, the GEM thinks it's grounding the engage solenoid, but the switch has redirected that signal to ground the disengage solenoid. Once low range is engaged (or even high range for that matter!) you'd be able to toggle the front axle on and off at-will, although I would recommend flipping the switch only when there is no pressure on the driveline and all four wheels are stopped.

Should work like a charm!

-Joe

 

Sweet, looks pretty simple. I might have to try this on my truck.--DIY

 

That looks like it would work nicely. Thanks for the tip!

Andy

 

Just an update note:

I just finished backing the trailer up the driveway in 2WD Low, and it walked up like nothing. I disconnected the CAD solenoid as suggested, and it worked like a charm! I just wanted to thank you guys for the help. Handling the trailer will be much easier now.

BTW, I still might install the switch, but disconnecting the solenoid is so easy, I may just try that for awhile. Time will tell.

Thanks again!

Andy