I was going to flush the trans by uding the method of disconnecting the return line from the trans. and adding fluid as it is pumped out. The two lines from the cooler come in one over top of the other. Does any one know if the top or the bottom one is the return. It is a 2002 f-150 5.4

Thanks

 

The top line at the transmission is return

 

thanks

 

I think I have a pretty good idea on how to do this myself after reading several articles on the subject. The top hardline is the return but I don't know how I can get to it with the cats & heat shield being right there in the way.

Looks like I'm going to have to at least take the heat shield off. I see two bolts that hold it on ... not sure if there are others.

Couldn't I just unhook up front where it comes out of the cooler? I'd have to make a hose and fitting probably but it is an easier location to get to.

Truck has 87k miles on it and it sounds like I should do this method rather than having the dealer do it with a T-TEC.

Looks like I do have a drain on my torque converter. I removed the little rubber plug and there is a small nut just inside! Didn't have to turn the engine to see it!

 

Hutchman, have you got the 4.6 or 5.4?

 

I've got the 4.6L V8.

 

OK, I asked because I was going to tell you on my 4.6 I disconnected the upper cooler line going into the radiator, hooked a piece of 3/8" fuel line to it (cooler line), and pumped the fluid from the pan, through that line, into a jug.
I got most all the fluid from the pan out that way, then changed the filter, closed it back up, and put 5 qts. back in, started it, and ran that 5 quarts out, and repeated that until I flushed about 14-16 quarts through the tranny & torque converter. Of course hooking the line back up to the rad before adding the final 5 quarts.
I started the truck and let it run in park only, do not shift into gear while pumping the old stuff out. Once air started spitting out the end of the line, that's when I shut it off and added 5 more quarts, and so on.
Once you hit the 14 quart mark, you'll see the fluid get nice and red, then it's time to hook back up the line to the rad and add you last 5 quarts, run it through all the gears, and re-check the level. I just made sure I put as much back in as I took out (I used a graduated jug so I could tell how many quarts I got out).
It may not get 100% of the old stuff out, but it gets a lot of it.
I also did my Crown Vic (2000) this way and it worked great, easier than messing with the converter drain plug IMHO, and you don't risk possibly having the plug leak.

 

Thanks! It helps to hear from someone else that has done it.

While looking at the situation I thought it sure would be a lot easier to hook something coming off the cooler than try to get to the top fitting on the trans with the cats & heat shield in the way.

I was basically going to follow these instructions:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...nsmission.html

You mentioned you didn't shift gears while draining. How come? Step 6.a in the instructions say to go through the gears at least one time while draining. Just want to make sure I do this right and don't mess anything up.

It sounds like this method is very similar to the dealer using a T-Tec machine without the expense.

My rear differential seal is leaking and nobody in my area had the correct weight gear oil so I ordered some Royal Purple stuff for the front and rear diff and went ahead and got their ATF fluid too so I'll be a fluid changing fool soon.

Thanks again!

 

If you were to move the shifter to each position while the engine is running you'll get more old fluid out of more passages and clutches and servos, too.

 

I stand corrected.

 

CTX,

So how much old tranny fluid were you able to get out before you noticed the color change from the new fluid? Just wondering how much this method gets out.

Also, did you drop your pan and change the filter & clean the magnet? If so did you reuse the seal or get a new one?

I read somewhere on here where the seal is reusable.

I just want to make sure I have my ducks in a row before I do this and realize I'm missing something like I'm the only one home and I need to run to the auto parts store to get a seal!

Anyone know what the torque on the tranny oil pan bolts are supposed to be? Haynes says 108 to 132 in-lbs. Just want to make sure that is right.

Thanks again!

 

Yea. After I pumped the first 4-5 qts. out, I pulled the pan and changed the filter, and cleaned out the pan and got all that fuzzy stuff cleaned off the magnet. TIP: I use aerosol brake parts cleaner to rinse out the pan and clean off the magnet, it works very well, and dries (evaporates) fast. Get a couple of cans. I like Albany brand. Valuecraft brand (Autozone) is good too for the price.
The pan gasket is reusable, I believe its rubber. Just wipe it clean and put it back in. No sealant required.
I torque the bolts back down "snug", like as tight as I can get it using one hand with a small ratchet. The key is to get them all evenly tight, and with the way I do it, I've had no problems with leaks. Remember, you can always tighten them down a little more if needed, but once you strip the threads out of the tranny body, it’s too late.
I ran about 14 quarts through before I saw a change in the color of the fluid. In total I went through 16 quarts, just to be safe.
So I would say, 16 qts. of Mercon V, 2 cans of brake parts aerosol cleaner, and a filter, and of course the other misc. stuff, and you should be good to go.
Also when you pull the filter out, be sure the rubber ring on the neck of the filter comes out with it, you'll see the ring on the neck of the new filter to see what it looks like. If it sticks in the bore of the valve body when you remove the filter, you can use a flathead screwdriver to pry it out, but be careful not to scratch the inside of the bore with the tip of the screwdriver.
Good luck! It's not too bad of a job.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'm ready to do it once my new ATF fluid comes in.

 

OK, I tried this today according to CTX's instructions of disconnecting the upper cooler line going into the radiator, hooked a piece of 3/8" fuel line to it (cooler line), and pumped the fluid from the pan, through that line, into a jug. Everything went according to plan except 2 major things...

Upon loosening the upper cooler line, the radiator coolant started leaking out of the hole. It completely drained the reservoir before it finished running down the back of the radiator and all over my driveway.

2nd big problem I had. When I disconnected the upper cooler line and started the engine up, ATF fluid was pumped into my jug as expected. I sat there watching the container fill and then noticed a huge red puddle of the stuff headed my way from under the engine. I ran to the bay and saw that ATF fluid was shooting out the open hole in the top of the radiator . It was everywhere. I figured I was committed at this point, so I just used my finger to hold it as best as possible during the pump cycles - but what a mess. I probably got 3.5 quarts into my jug and 1.5 on the ground with each cycle.

I did not expect that to happen and wonder what i did wrong? I thought this method would save me some mess - but it made more of one than I could have ever imagined. Any thoughts?

 

After reading the thread on how to repair the trans cooler line I have learned that the connections are quick connect lines, requiring a special tool to remove them.

I did not know that and instead of removing the line from the coupler, I unscrewed the coupler from the radiator. I am sure this coupler is a one-way valve, and would have prevented my ATF leak problem had I disconnected this the right way. Also, I wouldnt have lost any radiator fluid if I hadnt unscrewed this coupler from the radiator. DUH....

The next job should be a lot cleaner an operation. I ALMOST want to go do it again right now and see if I can do it right - but what a waste that would be. I'll wait another 30-40K miles before I get another chance....LOL.