After 121,000+ miles and letting the wife try to drive it a few times my clutch is starting to silp. I have a 98 f150 with a 4.6 5 speed with a tow package. i was pulling a 68 coronet on a trailer comming up a steep hill had it in second gear going 25 mph and about half way up i started smelling the clutch burning. After i got to the top the smell went away and havent smelled it sence. So my qustion is what clutch throwout bearring ect do people like the best for mostly every day driving and part time offroading and pulling?

 

Sorry I don't have any answers, just more questions. I have a 96 F150 with inline six and 144000 miles. When it is cold (talking lows of -2 F and highs of 14 F) my clutch goes all the way to the floor. I also had to top off the fluid. From reading this site, I am pretty sure I need a new slave cylinder. And while I have the tranny out, I should put in a new clutch.

My question is the same. What clutch should I get? Autozone sells a Duralast for about $144. I see on carparts.com I can get a Rhino Pac, Daikin, or a Qualitee International. $223, $171 or $157. I have also seen other threads where people mention a Centerforce dual friction clutch that is even more money. But what is best?

Also why are there 10 and 11 inch clutches listed? I'm new to this. Will either one work?

Thanks,
Rand

 

The only stock replacement clutch worth buying in my opinion is the LUK. Never buy a reman clutch ever. I have a shop at home and I refuse to install reline clutch assemblies. In most cases the damper becomes damaged before the clutch wears out. LUK is factory replacement parts. If you got over 100k out of your first clutch I would consider stock replacements to do you just fine.
Alan

 

Make sure you have the flywheel reground. Say no to people who want to lathe cut it. If it has severe heat distortion just buy a new one.
Alan

 

I had a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch put in my truck about a year ago. I needed the additional grip. It cost a few more bucks than an OEM replacement but I think it's worth the extra cash especially if you tow or are in a situation like me.

You will want to replace the slave cylinder also. I picked up an OE one at my dealership that has the throw out bearing installed.

Just something to consider.

Good luck!

 

Definately

 

thanks for the info

 

I just finished putting a new LuK clutch kit (P-plate,disc,pilot bearing,slave cylinder and alignment tool)in my truck. It would NOT release and sometimes refuse to let me even shift when moving. ClutchCity on ebay fixed me up with the LuK. 213.00. The slave was the problem. A few more weeks,if that long,and my syncro's would have been shot. If I didn't rear-end someone first!

 

I bought a pro gold rep set from carolina clutch:
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/
For my 96 with straight six the clutch was 195, slave cylinder was 65 and shipping was 20 bucks. I ordered last Tuesday morning and the parts came on Thursday.

Now I just need to spend some quality time in the garage.