off to the dealer we go
About a month ago I experienced what I thought was torque converter shudder. Running down the highway at 70 with cruise on when everything started to shake like a was going over rumble strips.Got aff highway and the thing acted normal. Had Pep boys do a flush and change filter. All is well for next 3 weeks or so then it does it again same area on my way into work. Any imput to whats wrong??? Dealer getting it in the morning. 2001 screw 4x4, 5.4 Just dont want to get jacked at the dealer. Thanks. Also forgot to mention put it in nuetral and it still vibrates
Last edited by hollywood; Mar 29, 2004 at 07:41 PM.
hollywood;
This may sound strange but it has happened to me several times. I too had a shake that would start slowly, build up and then fade away and it always seemed to happen at the same place on my way home from work. What I found is that the parking brake cable was hanging up slightly and the heat build up would distort the rear drum which caused the vibration. When the vibration got bad enough, it would knock the pads hard enough to dislodge the parking brake cable and it would subside. Take a look at your cables and make sure they are free. Especially since it still does it in neutral. That fact alone pretty well eliminates the engine and trans from being a source of the problem. Have fun, GlennMc.
This may sound strange but it has happened to me several times. I too had a shake that would start slowly, build up and then fade away and it always seemed to happen at the same place on my way home from work. What I found is that the parking brake cable was hanging up slightly and the heat build up would distort the rear drum which caused the vibration. When the vibration got bad enough, it would knock the pads hard enough to dislodge the parking brake cable and it would subside. Take a look at your cables and make sure they are free. Especially since it still does it in neutral. That fact alone pretty well eliminates the engine and trans from being a source of the problem. Have fun, GlennMc.
well the dealer could not find any thing wrong that would cause the vibration except for my worn oem generals. Said they could balance and rotate but said I might want to put that money toward new rubber and they would beat all other prices when I figured out what tire I want. GLENN MC that is interesting what you say because just by chance I used the parking brake when I towed the day before.Cannot say for sure about the first time but possible and I have noticed sometimes when releasing the parking brake it held on untill until the tires started rolling and the dealer said the back brakes could use to be replaced.Sounds real possable that this is my problem. Will check tomorrow night after work for anything blocking the cable.Any pointer for maintaince on parking brake? THANKS
hollywood;
The problem with parking brakes is that if you use them occasionally, they will often stick instead of releasing completely. If they are hanging up, the best thing to do is replace the cables. I have never had any luck trying to lube the cables on any vehicle I have had. It works for a little while and then they stick again. The nylon sheath inside the cable gets worn through and the inner steel cable and outer steel sheath rub together, rust and stick. Once that happens, it is difficult to clean out the rust which is binding the cable. I replaced my originals with aftermarket parts about 1-1/2 years ago and they are starting to stick again. It would have been better to replace them with Ford parts because they lasted about 4 years. I hope this helps, GlennMc.
The problem with parking brakes is that if you use them occasionally, they will often stick instead of releasing completely. If they are hanging up, the best thing to do is replace the cables. I have never had any luck trying to lube the cables on any vehicle I have had. It works for a little while and then they stick again. The nylon sheath inside the cable gets worn through and the inner steel cable and outer steel sheath rub together, rust and stick. Once that happens, it is difficult to clean out the rust which is binding the cable. I replaced my originals with aftermarket parts about 1-1/2 years ago and they are starting to stick again. It would have been better to replace them with Ford parts because they lasted about 4 years. I hope this helps, GlennMc.
got a chance to crawl under the truck today and what I found was that after releasing the parking brake I could grab the cable and push it back toward the rear wheels(would not move much) but enough to hear a very noticable clank on the driverside rear brakes. Everytime I retried this got the same old clank.The clank has to be the brake FULLY releasing so this MUST be my problem.What do you guys think? I am sure breathing easier now that drive train has been ruled out.Thanks again
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best bet it to replace the cables i think the ford ones are inexpensive and your best bet for them lasting longer.
next thing to do would be to use your parking brake more often. I use mine everytime i shut the truck off and they have never froze up on me i got 113k miles on it. of course its a manual and drum brakes so its easier to remember to do it.
the other thing you might want to check is the parking brake shoes under the rear rotors and make sure the return springs arnt broken and everything moves freely.
next thing to do would be to use your parking brake more often. I use mine everytime i shut the truck off and they have never froze up on me i got 113k miles on it. of course its a manual and drum brakes so its easier to remember to do it.
the other thing you might want to check is the parking brake shoes under the rear rotors and make sure the return springs arnt broken and everything moves freely.


