Guys, I still have this driveline vibration.
I have read about a solution to get rid of it in this article, so I know a bit about it.

http://home.hiwaay.net/~ctfrench/procedure.htm

I have got a brand new driveshaft from FoMoCo.
Yellow markers are on it.
However, I don't have a marker on the outputshaft.
The solution to the vibration is too install the driveshaft in a position that the sum of the unbalance in the outputshaft and the driveshaft equals almost zero.

There is 2 ways to install the driveshaft at the differential.
Rotating it 180 degrees relative to the outputshaft made the vibration worse.

My question is:

Inside the slipyoke there are 27 splines.
I guess there are a similar amount on the outputshaft.
In how many ways can you install the driveshaft to the outputshaft if you rotate the outputshaft relatively to the driveshaft.

27?

If that's the case, I like to try to eleminate the vibration to install the driveshaft in every position.

If you have tips or other info/suggestions, please post.
O, if the truck is in neutral, can you rotate the outputshaft by hand pretty easy. I wouldn't know.

TIA

 

I have yet to take the driveshaft off of my truck, however I have taken numerous driveshafts off of mustangs. Assuming they are similar, The output shaft in the tranny will accecpt the driveshat in only one position. This is due to one of the splines being wider than the rest. It basically acts as a key and only allows the driveshaft to be insalled in one position on the output shaft.
My suggestion would be to try all position your pinion flange will allow. If the position with the least vibration still bothers you then try putting a large hose clamp(s) around the driveshaft and use the clamping screw as a counter weight. Try different positions and number of clamps to get the results you desire. You may also try taking the driveshaft to a shop to check the balance.

 

Ceesjan,

There should be an index paint mark on the slip yoke. Line it up with the paint mark on the drive shaft and it should be OK. There should also be a paint mark on the Rear U joint flange. Check your E-Mail for pictures.

Regards

Jean Marc

 

FYI

I got a brandnew driveshaft from Ford.

included, came as one piece

2 u-joints
driveshaft
slipyoke

Markers were on them.

You can only install it two ways on the differential, right! by rotating the complete driveshaft by 180 degrees.
We tried both positions, one was better than the other but I still got vibrations.
So i was thinking to try other positions by rotating the outputshaft relative to the slipyoke/driveshaft.
Don't tell me it can only be installed to the outputshaft in one way.
These new driveshafts don't come balanced and according to my official ford service provider FoMoCo has never heard of balancing the driveshaft.

You have to zero out the unbalance in the outputshaft and the unbalance in the driveshaft by installing them in opposite directions. Right!!

So how do I do that then.

I like to know this.
Can you only slide the slipyoke over the outputshaft in one way?
I wouldn't know because I didn't install the driveshaft myself.

Man, if I had the money I would invite one of you guys over here and fix this problem. I am really fed up with it.

 

Ford TSB 01-9-01

I just had to have my tailshaft extension housing replaced because it CRACKED!!!

I have a copy of this TSB in acrobat if someone needs to see it.

 

JStang,

I replaced the extension housing back in October 2002 I think.
Didn't help.

BTW: Installing the driveshaft in several positions onto the outputshaft didn't make any difference.

 

I think I'm going to get the shaft balanced. There is some type of problem. Ford fix is to replace the parts, then re-flash your PCM to reduce the vehicles top speed even more...........Band Aid!

 

F150Europe,

I can truly identify with you about the vibration headache. I have a 98 2WD Ext Cab in which I added 4:10 gears and developed a constant vibration from the drive shaft at speeds of 80MPH. Last week, I had my driveshaft balanced. The shop guy say it was out of balance, but after reading the link on your initial post, I am wondering if the aluminum drive shafts are suppose to be balanced. I said that to say this, before you take your drive shaft to a shop and they remove the factor weights to balance it (because like mines, yours is probably not balanced, try the hose camp solution at your link). I had mines balanced last week and the problem is much worst. I now have a constant vibration at 70MPH which is a speed I normally drive. I am past frustrated with this problem and I guarantee if I get a fix, not a suggestion on how to fix this problem, I will surely post it. Since I just had my driveshaft balanced, I am going back this week to have the shop recheck it. If that doesn't work. I will try the hose camp suggestion. If that doesn't work, I going to see if I can find a non-aluminum driveshaft that's made for higher RPMs and lower gears. Apparently, this problem is isolated to aluminum driveshafts. I've noticed the 2003 Harley's don't have the aluminum driveshaft and with 3.73 gears and a SC, I am sure they are turning at higher RPMs than our stock trucks.

 

Crain,

Sad to hear you have the same annoying problem as I have.
Trannyshop said I had an aluminium driveshaft and that was the problem according them.
However my driveshaft from factory turned out to be steelmade not aluminium. So there goes their theory.
Anyway, ordered a brand new steel one including both u-joints and slipyoke brandnew.

Didn't help either.
Tried different positions on the outputshaft, didn't help.

Disconnected the battery for at least 15 minutes 2 weeks ago for relearn process after a tranny-rebuilt in Feb. or so.
Didn't help.
It's probably the TC again, trannyshop didn't put in a new one but rebuilt it.



Crain, I wish you luck and keep us posted.

 

Well, after my trip to back the machine shop, I am at least back to 80-85MPH with the anonying vibration problem. I am now considering getting a drive shaft made to my specs. I know some guys at a local Mustang shop that can get one tailored made for me of top quality material for arond $480. I know I can get one from Ford or some other drive shaft shops for 1/2 that, but if this corrects the problem an allows for future HP mods (i.e. SC), I am all for it...will keep you all posted.

 

crain,

Did it vibrate before the 4.10 gears? Did it vibrate right after the install or was it some months after? What I am getting at is; new gears can casue the vibration becasue of the use of a new pinion. If it is not new gears or if it just happened it could be the tranny. The drive train must be ligned up correctly. If the tranny or motor mounts are going bad they can allow the tranny to become misaligned. It will not show with the truck off the ground becasue there is no stress on the drive line. When the truck is on the road there is stress and the tranny will shift positions becasue of the weakened mount. One more thing to consider is the alignemt of the rear axle. Not just the elevation angle of the differential but the side to side too.

JMC

 

JMC,

I didn't have the problem before the gear change. I noticed problem after the break-in period for the gears. I do recall, however, that a few years ago while driving on a lone stretch of road, I pushed my truck over 95 MPH and recall a slight vibration but nothing compared to what I have now. Since that time, I have installed a 3" spindle lift up front and 2" blocks in the rear...not sure if this affected the angle of rear axle. If so, how do you correct the angle? Is there a kit available to adjust the angle?

Thanks for the help.

 

Shims are available. Any gear change to a lower ratio will exaggerate the problem. Blocks should not have changed the angle. What happens in extreeme lifts is the U-joint angle change, causing the U-joint to bind and you have to shim the axle to point the pingion upward to lessen the angel. Three inches is not a problem. Were the blocks angled? If so where they installed back to front?


JMC

 

JMC,

The blocks were angled and actually had the words "front" and "back" printed on them. I am sure the blocks were installed correctly. Based on your note, it sounds as if the angle of my drive line was not affected by the lift. I suppose the only thing left to do is have a drive shaft special made to handle the higher RPMs.

 

F150Europe,

Whatever happened with the new driveshaft? Did you get it to work properly without the vibration?