What kind of temps would be normal on the output line. I tow and just installed a trans temp gauge, I would like to know what kinds of temps would be normal, I have seen 204* while towing.

 

It has been said that anything above 195* is when the damage begins. What year is your truck and what engine do you have and do you have the factory transmission cooler or an aftermarket one?

Richard D.

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1999 5.4 no tow package but has factory cooler.

 

Are you sure that the cooler you are seeing is the trans cooler or is it the Power steering cooler? I am not sure about this but I belive the only way to get the trans. cooler is with the tow package that is actaully part of the tow package. Like I said though I am not sure about the 99's

Richard D.

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yes it's a trans cooler, I also have a power steering cooler. With the tow package the cooler is a little bigger.

 

OK like I said I was nopt sure. You know what you may want to do is buy the cooler like the one that comes with the tow kit and swap them out or get an aftermarket one that is better that's what I plan on doing as soon as the Factory Tech gives me tha name of it.

Richard D.

 

The only time I've seen that high of a temp on the output line was when I was backing up my trailer. (My sender is in the output line)

When towing at highway speeds, my temp is right around 135* when pulling a #4500 travel trailer. Stop and go traffic, I see 150*, but once I get going again and get some airflow, the temp goes down again. This has only been in Winter time driving, as I've just installed my gauge. Don't know what Summer temps will do to it.

Now, if the TC unlocks on you while going up a hill or something, that would create the temps you mention. I can get the temp over 150* pretty fast when running empty, if the TC unlocks.

Remember, when you are taking the temp from the output line, that's the hottest the fluid is getting. It has not gone though any cooler yet and is not what the temp of the fluid is inside the pan.

If you are seeing this temp while crusing at highway speeds, then it's too hot and somethings not working right.

I've got the factory tow package, but I think I still only have the 'standard' size cooler because it's only got 9 fins. I've heard the 'bigger' one has 14 or something like that.

I'm waiting until I see what kind of summer time temps I get and that will determine if I need to upgrade coolers.

 

Mitch150 can you tell me exactaly where and how you installd your trans. temp gauge? Did you go with a Pillar pod set of gauges or just a trans. temp gauge. Did the gauge you use come with all hardware to tap into the outgoing trans. line? What brand and type of gauge did you use Elec. or Mech. ? I am assuming that you just unscrewed the trans. output line threaded on the sending unit and reinstalled it into the transmission so could you pleaase enlighten me.

Richard D.

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Richard,

I went with the A piller pod for two gauges and used Autometer electric Water and Trans temp gauges. I don't recall the part numbers, but they are from their "Performance Series". I got the whole setup from Summit Racing for around $105.00.

They only come with the sending unit and several different adapters (5/8, 3/8 and the sender is 1/8).

I decided to tap into the tranny line up front and spliced into the rubber hose part of the line (the one going to the top of the rad). I went to Home Depot and got some brass T fittings and other assorted fittings to make it all work. I used 3/8 hardware for the trans line and 5/8 for the water (I cut into the input line for the heater core for the water temp).

I also got 24" of 3/8 high pressure fuel line hose to form a 'loop' between where I cut the stock line and where I added the T. This keeps the lines in the stock position and still allows for the flexability between the line and the frame (that's what I assume is the purpose for the rubber hose in the first place).

Since I used electric gauges, I had to attach a separate ground wire to the T to complete the circuit.

You will also need 14-16 gauge wire (I think I used 14) in different colors to make the connections. I used black for ground, red for 12v to the gauge, white for the 12v to the lights in the gauge and blue for the senders. I used some 3 amp inline fuses for the for the 12v wires too.

I also picked up some of that 3/8" black plastic wire 'conduit' stuff to hide the sender wires in the engine compartment. You can't see them at all and have to look pretty hard to even see the T's.

Overall, it was a pretty straight forward install. Took my time and it came out pretty good. I painted the pod to match the interior color (gray) and I do need to 'dress' up the T's a little bit. The hose clamps are not that 'pretty', but I think I'll get those fake braided line covers for the hoses and clamps when I get the chance. Should dress it up really nice then.

I like the sender in the output line myself. Lets me know pretty fast when the temp starts rising. Gives me more time to adjust my driving before the pan gets up to that temp. It's also nice to know the actual water temp too! The stock one is about as useful as a blind man spotting for a NASCAR race!

This is just what worked for me. I didn't like the idea of cutting the metal line and I didn't want my sender in the pan or test port either........

Good Luck!

 

Thanks. Are the gauges 2-1/16" in size for the Pillar mounting?

Richard D.

 

Yep, 2-1/16. I think that was the only size for the pod that fits the F150?