Weight distribution bars...how tight should they be???
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia, Canada
Weight distribution bars...how tight should they be???
Need some practical advice on how tight should my weight distribution bars be when I hook them up? I am getting all kinds of advice, some saying ..."do'em tight", others say, "set them up loosely". Common sense to me says, when setting them up you are not straining to lift them in place. Lift them so that they are firmly set in position and the bars are level on both sides. I also later recheck them when I get to a level location, just as a doublecheck on setup. This is how I do it and find the tow fine, however recently when talking to others on this point, as I said, I am now getting alot of different opinions on best performance.
I think it is best I try the experts in our forum who have towed with weight distribution systems for years and really know what works best when towing. Thanks
JP
I think it is best I try the experts in our forum who have towed with weight distribution systems for years and really know what works best when towing. Thanks
JP
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
This is how you do it. Or, at least how I've always done it......
Hitch up the trailer. Crank it up until you've got a pretty decent "rake" to the rear of the truck. Now, put the bars on and adjust the chains so you can still push them into the locked position by hand. It should give you "some" resistance, but not enough that you need to use every ounce of muscle either. Also, make sure you have the same number of links on both sides. Then crank it down. Your rig and trailer should be pretty much level. Assuming you have the correct drop on the hitch and all.
Hitch up the trailer. Crank it up until you've got a pretty decent "rake" to the rear of the truck. Now, put the bars on and adjust the chains so you can still push them into the locked position by hand. It should give you "some" resistance, but not enough that you need to use every ounce of muscle either. Also, make sure you have the same number of links on both sides. Then crank it down. Your rig and trailer should be pretty much level. Assuming you have the correct drop on the hitch and all.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Mitch is pretty much on with his comments, but if you want to do it in a more exacting way:
a) with the tow vehicle fully loaded with passengers, fuel, and cargo, but no trailer attached, measure the front and rear bumper heights. This gives you your baseline "rake" of the vehicle. What you want to do is most nearly return the tow vehicle to this position when the trailer is attached with the load levelers.
b) do as Mitch has stated, and remeasure your bumper heights. If you have too much torque on the levelers your rake will tend to lift the back, forcing more weight onto the front wheels. Too little, and you'll get a sag in the back.
a) with the tow vehicle fully loaded with passengers, fuel, and cargo, but no trailer attached, measure the front and rear bumper heights. This gives you your baseline "rake" of the vehicle. What you want to do is most nearly return the tow vehicle to this position when the trailer is attached with the load levelers.
b) do as Mitch has stated, and remeasure your bumper heights. If you have too much torque on the levelers your rake will tend to lift the back, forcing more weight onto the front wheels. Too little, and you'll get a sag in the back.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia, Canada
Thanks guys. Think I have it, hadn't thought of cranking the hitch up after attaching it to the truck, then attaching the bars and chain. Always thought to have the truck and trailer level, that is why I always do a re-check on level ground soon after I leave my place. Will give this tried and true system a try, sounds good. Thanks,
JP
JP