I HAVE A 2001 SUPER CREW WITH A 5.4 ENGINE, 4X4 LARIAT WITH THE 3.55 AND 17" WHEELS. I WANT TO TOW A 27" SUNNY BROOK TRAVEL TRAILER. THE DRY WEIGHT IS 6100 LBS WITH OPTIONS BRINGS IT UP TO 7000 LBS I PLAN TO TRAVEL WITH MINIMAL WATER AND SUPPLIES. I REALIZE MY PREFORMANCE WILL BE SOME WHAT LIMITED. WILL BE OK WITH THIS RIG. WHAT HITCH SHOULD I USE. WOULD APPRICIATE ANY REAL WORLS EXPERIENCES.

 

WELCOME TO THE BOARDS! Oops' sorry, I didn't mean to yell.

I'd confirm the trucks tow rating. Assuming you're fine there (I would assume you are) you'd definetly want to use a weight distributing set up. You can go to Putnam, Reese, Hidden Hitch or a host of other website's to learn more about what they are. Basicly it's a set of bars that mount to the trailer tongue and to your receiver hitch. If you don't have a recevier hitch, they all have one. I replaced my OEM class III with a Putnam class IV for the extra rating of 8000# weight carrying. I tow a boat with surge brakes so I can't use a WD set up.

With a TT (travel trailer) 99% of the time the weight is not distributed nice a even like a boat so a WD set up is a must. I think most hard core "towing folk" use as a rule of thumb, anything over 5000# needs a WD set up.

Tow right so you get there safe and can enjoy it!!

 

Sounds a little on the heavy side. I tow a 4100 pound trailer, you can pertty much forget it's there.
Do your homework for safetys sake, welcome to the boards!

 

You'll be really pushing the limits of your truck. With passengers, luggage, etc., your total weight will probably be over what's considered safe for your rig.

However, if you inisist on towing this rig, pay extra attention to the trailer brakes. If you lose those brakes, there's a great possibility that you'll lose control of it in an emergency and you may even cause an accident just trying to stop it under normal conditions.

Whatever you decide, don't go cheap on anything safety related. Get the best brakes installed on the trailer and get the best brake controller. Don't go cheap on the trailer tires either. Also invest in an accurate tire pressure guage and check those tires at every stop.

Learn to be patient and leave your temper at home. Get used to driving in the right lane.

 

Sorry, but IMO, that's way too heavy for a half ton. I don't care that our rigs are rated for a 7000# trailer.

My dad was trying to tow with his '95 Dodge 2500. It was rated to tow his 28' 8000# max GVWR TT. It only had the 360 in it, and it was a DOG. I know, "That's because it's a Dodge"........ Well, that maybe the case, but still.... That 360 had the same basic power as a 5.4 and it had 4.10 gears and only 245/75/16 tires! Most hills bogged him down to 40mph. Yeah, it towed it, but all he was doing was killing his truck.

He bought a '99 (ugh) Dodge 2500 with the 24 valve Cummings but it's like night and day. He can take the same hills at 65 mph and not even push the rig. Plus, still get 15 mpg WHILE TOWING.

Do what you want, but that size of trailer requires a 3/4 ton minimum, IMO. All you'll do is tear up your rig. Sure, it'll tow it, but I don't think you'll like the performance.

 

I think you'll be fine pulling that 7000# trailer.

I also have a 26' travel trailer that weights 6000#dry, and I pull it with a weight distributing hitch, oh, and i have the 4.6L. Now, as you would expect, V8's are slower then a diesel and harder to pull up hills; but for as often as i pull it *4 times a year* ; it's definately not worth buying a diesel truck for it.

GOOD ADVICE:
A definate is the weight distributing hitch.
I also keep a close eye on tires and trailer brakes.
And i always plan ahead so i don't get in a hurry. That's when accidents happen.
I've towed it one season so far, and plan to get a few more in before i get rid of my current ride.
The only thing i've changed is that i park the trailer at a campground for the season now, so i don't need to pull it every weekend.

Besides, no matter how much people want their vehicles to live forever, their not meant to; neither am I. So i figure i should drive hard and play hard.

So, prepare your truck, plan your maintenance, and your trips and enjoy your truck, trailer and life!!!!

Good luck

 

msujon71,

What gear ratio does your truck have? I have a 2000 4.6L 4x4 with 3.31's and pull a 25ft TT with GVWR of 5700. Seems to dog it up hills but on flat highway does just fine. In to the wind it struggles to get out of second gear. Curious to hear what ratio you run.

 

I have been towing for years and since I am not a retired full time Rver my truck is also a daily driver for business. I just couldn't justify an F350 diesel. Now when we do tow it is not just to the lake and back we have towed a 31 foot trailer and done thousands of miles in a 2 week vacation and as much as 700 miles in a day fully loaded. My trailer has a dry weight of 5600lb and that is modest I am sure and by the time I have awnings propane teens dogs and supplies I am sure I am at the max for the truck and it works great.

The 17" wheels will give you a 500lb disadvantage and the 4x4 will knock another 300lb of your towing rating. Mine is rated for 8000lb. There are pics of the truck and trailer in my gallery.

I like it when they post the grades on long hills and have noticed that at a 5% grade I have no problem holding speed at a 7% it will slow me down but can hold 50MPh. We have towed some 9 and 10% grades near the east coast. (Appalachians) and those are slow but I can still pass some of the trucks that are in the slow lane with the flashers on.

 

Hi, I tow with the same vehicle you have. (2001 Supercrew Lariat) and have been through MANY newsgroups and GVWR, GCWR calculations for a few months. You will be over the limit for the truck. I pull a 2001 Trail Bay Model 27DS from www.trail-lite.com. Specs say 29.5 feet, 700lb hitch weight and 4206#axle weight. However when reasonable loaded for camping it weighs 6,100lb. Grey and black empty, fresh water 1/4 full, groceries, supplies, bedding, 2-40# propane tanks full, etc. Thats 1,200# over the dry weight. My Supercrew rating says:
GVWR - 6,750
GCWR - 12,500
MAX Trailer - 7,200 (I'm 1,100lb lower than this)
I have weighed my truck and trailer with 4 passengers (2 adults, 2- teens), gas tank full, trailer loaded as above and here are my results:
Truck weight - 5,565 (No passengers and empty box, fibreglass tonneau, gas full)
Passengers - 545
Trailer Hitch weight - 645
Trailer rear axle weight - 5,455
So my GCW is 12,210 which is below my limit
My truck only GCW is 6,755 which is right on the limit.
The truck pulls the trailer nicely with overdrive off and it runs at 2500 RPM at 100KM/hr =62.5 miles per hour. I have only pulled it on level ground so far and would be a little worried about mountain driving. I wish the Supercrew had a 7700# option. We plan to pull this to Texas this summer so I will konw after that whether we will have to upgrade to an F250. I will also look at the Chev 1500HD. I don't like being so close to the limit of the Supercrew. Hope this helps. With your 7,000# trailer you will have at least 700-800# on the hitch and will be over both limits.

 

I think i have the 3.55 open rear end. I have the flu today, or otherwise i'd go check the door. But i think it says rear axle code 19; which i think is the open rear end. But, as my signature indicates, i also run 285 BFGoodrich's, so it take the ratio down a little. I don't seem to have a big problem in the wind, although i trailer it during the summer months when there isn't alot of wind as spring/fall/winter. Hills is where i lack the power of the 5.4 or diesel. But most of mine is alot flatter land, except when i go deer hunting in november, it's windy, snowy, and hilly. But i go slow then.

Yes i realize i'm pushing it for my truck, but i think i'm alot safer then alot of people out there because their flying down the highway at 80 with trailers on back. I know that isn't safe. It's alot easier to stop from 55 then it is 80; no matter if your trucks able to handle going 80 better or not.


Laters

 

Okay I am confused, how much trailer weight I can pull?

I bought a 2002 F-150 4x4 Super Cab XLT 139" wheelbase style, 5.4L V-8 Automatic. With optional P255/70R-16 All Terrain tires and 3.55 ratio limited slip axle. and 6500# GVWR Package????, with a class III trailer towing group (is that means I have oil and tranny cooler?).

Any information will be appreciated.

Thanks

 

It should be listed in the owners manual. Since your's is new, you 'should' have one in a section called "Towing" or something like that. It'll show a listing of all the various models/engines/gear ratios and then it'll list what your specific combo is rated for.

But just know that what it's rated for and what it'll actually tow are two different things. Really depends on what our "pucker" tolerance is )*( Especially when you have to stop!

Anyway, as long as you don't exceed the rated limits, and you know how to drive with a trailer, you should be fine.

 

wengerda,
To figure max trailer weight you need two calculations: A sticker on your truck will specify :
1- GVWR (The maximum weight allowed of your truck including passengers, fuel, stuff in the box, AND Trailer hitch weight)
2. GCWR (The maximum weight of the loaded truck and the loaded trailor combined).
Neither one of these should be exceeded. The maximum trailer weight Ford specifies is usually very unrealistic because you will exceed one of the two values above before you reach the max trailer weight. You should weigh your truck loaded before buying a trailer, AND weigh the trailor (hitch and Axle weight) before buying it.

In my case previously described in this thread, I am close to both numbers on a loaded trailor that is 1,100lb less than what Ford said I could pull.

 

Thank you. I will check the manual and my calcaulations too.

 

The manual may not help. The sticker should be on the driver side door frame.