how long is too long for a f150?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 43,528
Likes: 817
From: Joplin MO
Put all the cargo you can in the trailer - any cargo in the truck will directly subtract from the available payload whereas in the trailer, properly loaded, it will only subtract about 12%. 500# of cargo properly loaded in the trailer will only raise the TW about 60#.
People do exceed payload (GVWR) routinely, but it's not that great an idea. WD is mandatory if you are going to do this, or you will also overload the rear axle.
What you need to do in your research is look at the max gross trailer weight and multiply that by 12%. That will give you a fairly realistic TW.
People do exceed payload (GVWR) routinely, but it's not that great an idea. WD is mandatory if you are going to do this, or you will also overload the rear axle.
What you need to do in your research is look at the max gross trailer weight and multiply that by 12%. That will give you a fairly realistic TW.
Put all the cargo you can in the trailer - any cargo in the truck will directly subtract from the available payload whereas in the trailer, properly loaded, it will only subtract about 12%. 500# of cargo properly loaded in the trailer will only raise the TW about 60#.
People do exceed payload (GVWR) routinely, but it's not that great an idea. WD is mandatory if you are going to do this, or you will also overload the rear axle.
What you need to do in your research is look at the max gross trailer weight and multiply that by 12%. That will give you a fairly realistic TW.
People do exceed payload (GVWR) routinely, but it's not that great an idea. WD is mandatory if you are going to do this, or you will also overload the rear axle.
What you need to do in your research is look at the max gross trailer weight and multiply that by 12%. That will give you a fairly realistic TW.
http://www.starcraftrv.com/light-wei...floorplan-main
gross weight of 5975 multiplied by the 12% gives me 717lbs. am i doing that right? and would that 717lbs be the TW if the trailer was fully loaded?
how much more weight would i need to add to the dry hitch weight immediately?
and if im understanding you correctly with 500lbs of cargo put in the trailer right it would only add 60lbs more to the TW.
again i appologize for all the questions, i just want to know as much as i can so i dont find myself researching trailers that i cant actually pull.
thanks,
Last edited by FX4Matt; Apr 9, 2014 at 03:50 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
Gonna depend on where you can store your stuff in the trailer too.. Anything closer to the front will add more to the TW. Anything you add to the back will take away from the TW.
Load it over the axles and you won't gain or lose much at all on the TW.
That trailer you linked would probably be fine, weight wise, but my guess is you'll still go over the trucks GVWR by a tad... It won't instantly 'implode' if you do this, so it's really up to what YOU feel most comfortable doing..
Good luck!
Mitch
Load it over the axles and you won't gain or lose much at all on the TW.
That trailer you linked would probably be fine, weight wise, but my guess is you'll still go over the trucks GVWR by a tad... It won't instantly 'implode' if you do this, so it's really up to what YOU feel most comfortable doing..
Good luck!
Mitch
Gonna depend on where you can store your stuff in the trailer too.. Anything closer to the front will add more to the TW. Anything you add to the back will take away from the TW.
Load it over the axles and you won't gain or lose much at all on the TW.
That trailer you linked would probably be fine, weight wise, but my guess is you'll still go over the trucks GVWR by a tad... It won't instantly 'implode' if you do this, so it's really up to what YOU feel most comfortable doing..
Good luck!
Mitch
Load it over the axles and you won't gain or lose much at all on the TW.
That trailer you linked would probably be fine, weight wise, but my guess is you'll still go over the trucks GVWR by a tad... It won't instantly 'implode' if you do this, so it's really up to what YOU feel most comfortable doing..
Good luck!
Mitch
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Slide-outs are nice but be aware that they add significant weight. It depends on the size but I've heard around 500 pounds is typical. That's 500 pounds of useful stuff or extra length you're giving up. On the other hand the extra space is nice. Only you can decide on the trade-off value.
sorry if this is a stupid question. i still dont fully understand what i can and cant tow. just wondering if i would have an issue pulling something like this?
http://www.starcraftrv.com/light-wei...floorplan-main
http://www.starcraftrv.com/light-wei...floorplan-main
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
You can tow whatever you want.. Meaning, tow what you feel comfortable with towing..
What have you towed before? Anything?
If you haven't towed before, it's gonna be hard to judge what you are going to be comfortable with... Even if all the weight specs work out, towing a trailer of any significant weight/length is a pretty different deal your first time...
If you have towed before, all you can do is compare that to the travel trailer of your choice.
By the specs, either of those trailers you've linked to will technically fit within the specs of your truck, but you'll still likely be over some weight limit, but again, that's up to you to determine what is acceptable to you..
You'll feel any trailer you hitch up.. You'll have to adjust your driving for towing any trailer you hitch up. I have to do that when I'm towing my little 8' utility trailer..
Anyway, you are doing more now than most do before buying their first RV, so at least you are aware of the things you should be looking out for..
Time to decide and get something, as you can piddle and diddle around forever..
Mitch
What have you towed before? Anything?
If you haven't towed before, it's gonna be hard to judge what you are going to be comfortable with... Even if all the weight specs work out, towing a trailer of any significant weight/length is a pretty different deal your first time...
If you have towed before, all you can do is compare that to the travel trailer of your choice.
By the specs, either of those trailers you've linked to will technically fit within the specs of your truck, but you'll still likely be over some weight limit, but again, that's up to you to determine what is acceptable to you..
You'll feel any trailer you hitch up.. You'll have to adjust your driving for towing any trailer you hitch up. I have to do that when I'm towing my little 8' utility trailer..
Anyway, you are doing more now than most do before buying their first RV, so at least you are aware of the things you should be looking out for..
Time to decide and get something, as you can piddle and diddle around forever..
Mitch
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 552
Likes: 1
From: Bear, Delaware
On your door sticker, what are the figures for your GVWR, and your load weight capacity? It will be different than what I'll be showing, but this will be a guide line. I'm not the one who can do the right calculations, so one of the other guys can help you with that. So assuming these are right:
Going by your signature and what you've said, you have an FX4 4x4, 5.5 bed, 5.0, 3.73 rear. According to the "brochure" that puts your numbers at:
GCWR - 15,100 lbs. (All that the truck can handle with full loads for both the truck and what you are towing).
GVWR - 7,350 lbs. (All that your Truck can carry, inc. the trucks weight with you, passengers, gear).
Trucks Payload capacity - 1,700 lbs. (Load capacity of your truck, not counting the weight of the truck and acc. attached to it).
Max towing capacity - 9,300 lbs. (Trailer and all gear, loaded water tanks, etc.).
Going by your signature and what you've said, you have an FX4 4x4, 5.5 bed, 5.0, 3.73 rear. According to the "brochure" that puts your numbers at:
GCWR - 15,100 lbs. (All that the truck can handle with full loads for both the truck and what you are towing).
GVWR - 7,350 lbs. (All that your Truck can carry, inc. the trucks weight with you, passengers, gear).
Trucks Payload capacity - 1,700 lbs. (Load capacity of your truck, not counting the weight of the truck and acc. attached to it).
Max towing capacity - 9,300 lbs. (Trailer and all gear, loaded water tanks, etc.).
On your door sticker, what are the figures for your GVWR, and your load weight capacity? It will be different than what I'll be showing, but this will be a guide line. I'm not the one who can do the right calculations, so one of the other guys can help you with that. So assuming these are right: Going by your signature and what you've said, you have an FX4 4x4, 5.5 bed, 5.0, 3.73 rear. According to the "brochure" that puts your numbers at: GCWR - 15,100 lbs. (All that the truck can handle with full loads for both the truck and what you are towing). GVWR - 7,350 lbs. (All that your Truck can carry, inc. the trucks weight with you, passengers, gear). Trucks Payload capacity - 1,700 lbs. (Load capacity of your truck, not counting the weight of the truck and acc. attached to it). Max towing capacity - 9,300 lbs. (Trailer and all gear, loaded water tanks, etc.).
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You can tow whatever you want.. Meaning, tow what you feel comfortable with towing.. What have you towed before? Anything? If you haven't towed before, it's gonna be hard to judge what you are going to be comfortable with... Even if all the weight specs work out, towing a trailer of any significant weight/length is a pretty different deal your first time... If you have towed before, all you can do is compare that to the travel trailer of your choice. By the specs, either of those trailers you've linked to will technically fit within the specs of your truck, but you'll still likely be over some weight limit, but again, that's up to you to determine what is acceptable to you.. You'll feel any trailer you hitch up.. You'll have to adjust your driving for towing any trailer you hitch up. I have to do that when I'm towing my little 8' utility trailer.. Anyway, you are doing more now than most do before buying their first RV, so at least you are aware of the things you should be looking out for.. Time to decide and get something, as you can piddle and diddle around forever.. Mitch
Anyway, you are doing more now than most do before buying their first RV, so at least you are aware of the things you should be looking out for.. Time to decide and get something, as you can piddle and diddle around forever.. MitchSent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 43,528
Likes: 817
From: Joplin MO
The load capacity I'm allowed 1335lbs for all passengers and cargo.
Load up the truck the way you would when towing a RV, including all people and cargo, fill the gas tank, and run it over a scale. Subtract the weight from your GVWR (7350?) to get the true technical limit for your TW.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Lots and lots of posts here - I just scanned some of them.
But wanted to give you some general feedback.
I have a 2012 F150 ecoBoost SCREW with 6.5 foot bed. So its the long 157' wheel base.
I tow a 30' camper with a single slide. Dry axle weight is 4434 lbs, dry hitch weight is 412 lbs.
I tow it with a WD hitch and a single sway bar.
On calm days it pulls very smooth. On windy days you have to be careful... the worse-case situation is always when you are driving by a woods and then pop out into an open field and get hit by a cross wind. (but no matter what size trailer, this is probably bad).
The most important thing with a bigger trailer is to not exceed the speed for the current weather conditions. Some days I can do 60-65 MPH on the highway. On a windy day maybe you can only do 55 MPH.
If you plan on towing a lot, then definitely spend the money and get the double sway bar setup. It will make towing easier and safer.
Another thing to watch when comparing trailers - look at the placement of the wheels (front-to-back). Sometimes they put the wheels in the middle in order to reduce the tongue weight. This helps you on payload of course, but it hurts you on towing stability.
The further toward the back the better it will pull.
Also - does your truck have the built in trailer brake controller (sorry if you already said that). If so you can probably count on the Trailer Sway Control to step in and save you if you ever get in trouble. I've never used it yet, but its somewhat comforting knowing its there if you ever get in trouble.
But wanted to give you some general feedback.
I have a 2012 F150 ecoBoost SCREW with 6.5 foot bed. So its the long 157' wheel base.
I tow a 30' camper with a single slide. Dry axle weight is 4434 lbs, dry hitch weight is 412 lbs.
I tow it with a WD hitch and a single sway bar.
On calm days it pulls very smooth. On windy days you have to be careful... the worse-case situation is always when you are driving by a woods and then pop out into an open field and get hit by a cross wind. (but no matter what size trailer, this is probably bad).
The most important thing with a bigger trailer is to not exceed the speed for the current weather conditions. Some days I can do 60-65 MPH on the highway. On a windy day maybe you can only do 55 MPH.
If you plan on towing a lot, then definitely spend the money and get the double sway bar setup. It will make towing easier and safer.
Another thing to watch when comparing trailers - look at the placement of the wheels (front-to-back). Sometimes they put the wheels in the middle in order to reduce the tongue weight. This helps you on payload of course, but it hurts you on towing stability.
The further toward the back the better it will pull.
Also - does your truck have the built in trailer brake controller (sorry if you already said that). If so you can probably count on the Trailer Sway Control to step in and save you if you ever get in trouble. I've never used it yet, but its somewhat comforting knowing its there if you ever get in trouble.
Lots and lots of posts here - I just scanned some of them. But wanted to give you some general feedback. I have a 2012 F150 ecoBoost SCREW with 6.5 foot bed. So its the long 157' wheel base. I tow a 30' camper with a single slide. Dry axle weight is 4434 lbs, dry hitch weight is 412 lbs. I tow it with a WD hitch and a single sway bar. On calm days it pulls very smooth. On windy days you have to be careful... the worse-case situation is always when you are driving by a woods and then pop out into an open field and get hit by a cross wind. (but no matter what size trailer, this is probably bad). The most important thing with a bigger trailer is to not exceed the speed for the current weather conditions. Some days I can do 60-65 MPH on the highway. On a windy day maybe you can only do 55 MPH. If you plan on towing a lot, then definitely spend the money and get the double sway bar setup. It will make towing easier and safer. Another thing to watch when comparing trailers - look at the placement of the wheels (front-to-back). Sometimes they put the wheels in the middle in order to reduce the tongue weight. This helps you on payload of course, but it hurts you on towing stability. The further toward the back the better it will pull. Also - does your truck have the built in trailer brake controller (sorry if you already said that). If so you can probably count on the Trailer Sway Control to step in and save you if you ever get in trouble. I've never used it yet, but its somewhat comforting knowing its there if you ever get in trouble.
Last edited by FX4Matt; Apr 10, 2014 at 02:06 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
The built in 'sway control' in the truck is NOT the same as what you put on the hitch..
If you get to the stage where the trucks "sway control" kicks in, you will probably be pooping your pants!!
You already figured out you only have #550 of payload left after you load up the family and other stuff, so you have to decide how much of that do you want to abide by or not... Meaning, go over your payload (GVWR) figure on your truck or not.. People do it all the time. I was one of them, but that was my choice and I knew what the deal was, but I was never in an "Illegal" situation in any way shape or form for my state of license...
You can crunch numbers all day long, taking the 'dry weights' of all the trailers you can find... Nothing is going to determine what YOUR weights are going to be until you get it all weighed.. Sure, you can come pretty close, but you'll still be "a hundred here or a hundred there" either way...
Get an aftermarket brake controller or pop for the OEM one (you'll have to go to the dealer to get your computer 'flashed' with the BC 'stuff').
Get a decent WD hitch setup. Yes, you can go with the friction sway controls if you want.. Nothing wrong with them and if they work for you, great.
Pick out a trailer that will get close to your weights and go from there... Those ones you picked out already should work fine if you load it right.
Mitch
If you get to the stage where the trucks "sway control" kicks in, you will probably be pooping your pants!!
You already figured out you only have #550 of payload left after you load up the family and other stuff, so you have to decide how much of that do you want to abide by or not... Meaning, go over your payload (GVWR) figure on your truck or not.. People do it all the time. I was one of them, but that was my choice and I knew what the deal was, but I was never in an "Illegal" situation in any way shape or form for my state of license...
You can crunch numbers all day long, taking the 'dry weights' of all the trailers you can find... Nothing is going to determine what YOUR weights are going to be until you get it all weighed.. Sure, you can come pretty close, but you'll still be "a hundred here or a hundred there" either way...
Get an aftermarket brake controller or pop for the OEM one (you'll have to go to the dealer to get your computer 'flashed' with the BC 'stuff').
Get a decent WD hitch setup. Yes, you can go with the friction sway controls if you want.. Nothing wrong with them and if they work for you, great.
Pick out a trailer that will get close to your weights and go from there...
Those ones you picked out already should work fine if you load it right.Mitch
The built in 'sway control' in the truck is NOT the same as what you put on the hitch.. If you get to the stage where the trucks "sway control" kicks in, you will probably be pooping your pants!! You already figured out you only have #550 of payload left after you load up the family and other stuff, so you have to decide how much of that do you want to abide by or not... Meaning, go over your payload (GVWR) figure on your truck or not.. People do it all the time. I was one of them, but that was my choice and I knew what the deal was, but I was never in an "Illegal" situation in any way shape or form for my state of license... You can crunch numbers all day long, taking the 'dry weights' of all the trailers you can find... Nothing is going to determine what YOUR weights are going to be until you get it all weighed.. Sure, you can come pretty close, but you'll still be "a hundred here or a hundred there" either way... Get an aftermarket brake controller or pop for the OEM one (you'll have to go to the dealer to get your computer 'flashed' with the BC 'stuff'). Get a decent WD hitch setup. Yes, you can go with the friction sway controls if you want.. Nothing wrong with them and if they work for you, great. Pick out a trailer that will get close to your weights and go from there... Those ones you picked out already should work fine if you load it right. Mitch
You already figured out you only have #550 of payload left after you load up the family and other stuff, so you have to decide how much of that do you want to abide by or not... Meaning, go over your payload (GVWR) figure on your truck or not.. People do it all the time. I was one of them, but that was my choice and I knew what the deal was, but I was never in an "Illegal" situation in any way shape or form for my state of license... You can crunch numbers all day long, taking the 'dry weights' of all the trailers you can find... Nothing is going to determine what YOUR weights are going to be until you get it all weighed.. Sure, you can come pretty close, but you'll still be "a hundred here or a hundred there" either way... Get an aftermarket brake controller or pop for the OEM one (you'll have to go to the dealer to get your computer 'flashed' with the BC 'stuff'). Get a decent WD hitch setup. Yes, you can go with the friction sway controls if you want.. Nothing wrong with them and if they work for you, great. Pick out a trailer that will get close to your weights and go from there... Those ones you picked out already should work fine if you load it right. MitchI guess I'm just thinking way too much about things. It's time to go out and look at trailers now I suppose.
Thanks again to everyone for all of the knowledge and help!
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