Installing a Prodigy P2 Controller in a 99 Expedition 5.4L EB
Installing a Prodigy P2 Controller in a 99 Expedition 5.4L EB
Hello,
I have a question regarding installing a Prodigy P2 Brake Controller in a 99 Expedition 5.4l Eddie Bauer (with factory tow package - 7 pin connector).
I've read through a bunch of the towing threads here and just want to make sure i have all the info i need before i pickup the truck this afternoon.
We normally tow our trailer (20' - 3k lbs) with a 2010 Nissan Murano, but we're leaving this weekend for a trip to the coast (bodega bay) and its going to be raining for the drive on Friday, so i'll be borrowing my parents expedition.
I took the P2 out of the Murano, and purchased the 3035-P harness to connect into the factory plug (behind the obd-II port, correct?) on the expedition.
So here's what i was going to do:
Locate plug under dash. Plug in harness and P2. Cross fingers. Turn on the truck and hope it turns on and shows "n.c." , and if it does, am i done? do i need to check anything else?
If it isn't getting power i should check the fuse box for the missing 30a fuse? Is there extra fuses in the fuse box or will i need to buy one. same thing for the Trailer Charging Relay? Does anyone have a Part # if i need to buy one?
Whats going to be an easy solution to mounting this under the dash (without removing the mount in the murano)? I was thinking about just zip tying it to something under the dash (In a way that its not going to move). Does it need to be completely level, or if its at a bit of an angle its ok?
Thanks for your help, there's a lot of great information on here!
-Dan
I have a question regarding installing a Prodigy P2 Brake Controller in a 99 Expedition 5.4l Eddie Bauer (with factory tow package - 7 pin connector).
I've read through a bunch of the towing threads here and just want to make sure i have all the info i need before i pickup the truck this afternoon.
We normally tow our trailer (20' - 3k lbs) with a 2010 Nissan Murano, but we're leaving this weekend for a trip to the coast (bodega bay) and its going to be raining for the drive on Friday, so i'll be borrowing my parents expedition.
I took the P2 out of the Murano, and purchased the 3035-P harness to connect into the factory plug (behind the obd-II port, correct?) on the expedition.
So here's what i was going to do:
Locate plug under dash. Plug in harness and P2. Cross fingers. Turn on the truck and hope it turns on and shows "n.c." , and if it does, am i done? do i need to check anything else?
If it isn't getting power i should check the fuse box for the missing 30a fuse? Is there extra fuses in the fuse box or will i need to buy one. same thing for the Trailer Charging Relay? Does anyone have a Part # if i need to buy one?
Whats going to be an easy solution to mounting this under the dash (without removing the mount in the murano)? I was thinking about just zip tying it to something under the dash (In a way that its not going to move). Does it need to be completely level, or if its at a bit of an angle its ok?
Thanks for your help, there's a lot of great information on here!
-Dan
There's a sticky at the top of this forum with a diagram for all the necessary relays and fuses for the tow package.
Yes, it should show the 'nc' if it's got power and no trailer hooked up.
The first time you hitch the trailer and plug in and take off, you are going to want to manually slide the lever on the BC to test that the trailer brakes are working. You use this to also determine how much 'gain' you add or subtract. With that lite of a trailer, you won't need to mess with the 'boost' levels on the P2. Just keep it at 'B1'.
You should also manually apply the trailer brakes when you get up to speed, just to see how the slow speed setting works at hwy speed. You may have to adjust for your own specific braking comfort level.
As far as mounting goes, it can be at an angle, but no more than 70* I think it is... You might be able to zip tie it in place, but you want it to have as little movement as possible once it's mounted I'm sure.
Might just want to get a second mount for future use?? That's what I would do..
Good luck!
Mitch
Yes, it should show the 'nc' if it's got power and no trailer hooked up.
The first time you hitch the trailer and plug in and take off, you are going to want to manually slide the lever on the BC to test that the trailer brakes are working. You use this to also determine how much 'gain' you add or subtract. With that lite of a trailer, you won't need to mess with the 'boost' levels on the P2. Just keep it at 'B1'.
You should also manually apply the trailer brakes when you get up to speed, just to see how the slow speed setting works at hwy speed. You may have to adjust for your own specific braking comfort level.
As far as mounting goes, it can be at an angle, but no more than 70* I think it is... You might be able to zip tie it in place, but you want it to have as little movement as possible once it's mounted I'm sure.
Might just want to get a second mount for future use?? That's what I would do..

Good luck!
Mitch
Thanks for the info.
I've read through the sticky regarding which fuse and relay need to be added. I'm hoping that everything will go smoothly (fingers crossed). I'll try to post back in a few hours when i give it a try.
On the off chance that the relay is missing, is there a specific one that i need or can i go into an autoparts store and ask for the ford "towing/charging relay"?
I've read through the sticky regarding which fuse and relay need to be added. I'm hoping that everything will go smoothly (fingers crossed). I'll try to post back in a few hours when i give it a try.
On the off chance that the relay is missing, is there a specific one that i need or can i go into an autoparts store and ask for the ford "towing/charging relay"?
Last edited by danimal86; Feb 27, 2014 at 01:52 PM.
I think all those relays are the same, but I think they really only apply to the 12v power and the "AUX" for the 7 pin. (the 12v relay makes it so power is not being sent to the 7 pin when the trucks ignition is off and the AUX is for reverse lights on the trailer, if equipped).
The brakes are the 30a fuse and not dependent on the relays.
Mitch
The brakes are the 30a fuse and not dependent on the relays.
Mitch
So i plugged in the controller and it has power. woohoo!!!!
I looked in the fuse box and both relays are there. I should be good to go?
the P2 desn't seem to be turning itself off though. any though? I'll update in a few when i hook it up to the trailer.
here's the fuse box. Am i missing anything for the BC?
I looked in the fuse box and both relays are there. I should be good to go?
the P2 desn't seem to be turning itself off though. any though? I'll update in a few when i hook it up to the trailer.
here's the fuse box. Am i missing anything for the BC?
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VICTORY!
We have brakes!!!!
Brakes signals and lights are all working!
This may just be me, but does the p2 show a number when braking, and gets higher when you press more? I set the gain in the middle and have it on B1.
Thanks guys!
We have brakes!!!!
Brakes signals and lights are all working!
This may just be me, but does the p2 show a number when braking, and gets higher when you press more? I set the gain in the middle and have it on B1.
Thanks guys!
Yes it will while you are moving. If you are stopped, then you can press as hard as you want, but it won't increase because it's an inertia based system and it senses how fast you are stopping and applies only what you need based on it's current setting.
When you move the manual slide all the way over, what shows is the MAX volts that will be sent to the brakes. 6.0 is a good starting point.
When you are moving at around 25 mph and hit the manual all the way, it should grab pretty hard, but NOT lockup the trailer brakes. Adjust to where it feels comfortable and where you can feel the trailer brakes doing some work in normal stops.
Adjust to what feels comfortable. It should not be jerky in stop and go traffic, but it should also feel like it's braking when at speed.
Your braking distance will still increase, depending on the weight of the trailer, but as long as you can feel it working, that's all you really need.
Mitch
When you move the manual slide all the way over, what shows is the MAX volts that will be sent to the brakes. 6.0 is a good starting point.
When you are moving at around 25 mph and hit the manual all the way, it should grab pretty hard, but NOT lockup the trailer brakes. Adjust to where it feels comfortable and where you can feel the trailer brakes doing some work in normal stops.
Adjust to what feels comfortable. It should not be jerky in stop and go traffic, but it should also feel like it's braking when at speed.
Your braking distance will still increase, depending on the weight of the trailer, but as long as you can feel it working, that's all you really need.
Mitch





