TOWING ON 37s!!!????
TOWING ON 37s!!!????
Okay I have an 07 F150 on 37s and 8in lift. I am still on the stock 3.73s.
I will be purchasing a toyhauler to camp/tow my 2 Arctic Cat 4wheelers(quads). These things weigh about 700-800lb a piece. The toyhauler I will be getting weighs 3850lb dry. So basically looking at pulling 5400lbs on 37s and 3.73s. The ride is NEXT weekend so I dont have time to regear. What do yall think I should do? I know it wont kill the truck to tow it one time to the ride plus its all backroads so I never will be above 55mph. Its about 120 miles one way. I need some opinions!!!
Also, where can I find the cheapest gears, install kits for the truck and what brake controller do you guys run? Looking for simple plug and play if they make any for our trucks.
I will be purchasing a toyhauler to camp/tow my 2 Arctic Cat 4wheelers(quads). These things weigh about 700-800lb a piece. The toyhauler I will be getting weighs 3850lb dry. So basically looking at pulling 5400lbs on 37s and 3.73s. The ride is NEXT weekend so I dont have time to regear. What do yall think I should do? I know it wont kill the truck to tow it one time to the ride plus its all backroads so I never will be above 55mph. Its about 120 miles one way. I need some opinions!!! Also, where can I find the cheapest gears, install kits for the truck and what brake controller do you guys run? Looking for simple plug and play if they make any for our trucks.
Last edited by BAMA_F150; Jun 24, 2011 at 01:07 AM.
Okay I have an 07 F150 on 37s and 8in lift. I am still on the stock 3.73s.
I will be purchasing a toyhauler to camp/tow my 2 Arctic Cat 4wheelers(quads). These things weigh about 700-800lb a piece. The toyhauler I will be getting weighs 3850lb dry. So basically looking at pulling 5400lbs on 37s and 3.73s. The ride is NEXT weekend so I dont have time to regear. What do yall think I should do? I know it wont kill the truck to tow it one time to the ride plus its all backroads so I never will be above 55mph. Its about 120 miles one way. I need some opinions!!!
Also, where can I find the cheapest gears, install kits for the truck and what brake controller do you guys run? Looking for simple plug and play if they make any for our trucks.

I will be purchasing a toyhauler to camp/tow my 2 Arctic Cat 4wheelers(quads). These things weigh about 700-800lb a piece. The toyhauler I will be getting weighs 3850lb dry. So basically looking at pulling 5400lbs on 37s and 3.73s. The ride is NEXT weekend so I dont have time to regear. What do yall think I should do? I know it wont kill the truck to tow it one time to the ride plus its all backroads so I never will be above 55mph. Its about 120 miles one way. I need some opinions!!! Also, where can I find the cheapest gears, install kits for the truck and what brake controller do you guys run? Looking for simple plug and play if they make any for our trucks.

Don't know if any are a simple plug and play per say. Unless you are an advanced mechanic, I doubt u will be able to do them yourself. Diffsonly.com is supposedly good from what I read on hear. I have not personally regeared, but seems to be between 1000-1500 depending on the labor costs from reading peoples experiences. Do you at least have a programmer to readjust shift points and what not? Good luck man. Truck looks awesome. I am running tekonsha brake controller which I got on sale for around 100 bucks. Works great.
Last edited by jerrybizzle; Jun 24, 2011 at 09:26 AM.
You'll be more like 6500-7000 pounds with the quads, spare parts, tools, food, drinks, bedding, cooking supplies, and camping gear. Have fun with that! That's about what I tow and I don't like it with 3.73 and 32" tires!
you should be fine. I would just keep it to below 65 mph. I towed my 3800 lbs Mustang and the trailer which weighed 2200 lbs so 6000 lbs and it did pretty well. It was a 60 mile tow to the shop. Had a really steep grade as well and it handled it with no problem. I just took it easy and left the od off.
Weight is not the only issue. A full sized/height travel trailer has a lot more aerodynamic drag than an open car hauler.
Trailer tires are rated for 65mph. Overdrive off.
My brake controller is mounted on the lower dash, left of steering wheel. I prefer the right side, but the dash layout makes the left better for my generation truck.
Trailer tires are rated for 65mph. Overdrive off.
My brake controller is mounted on the lower dash, left of steering wheel. I prefer the right side, but the dash layout makes the left better for my generation truck.
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Weight is not the only issue. A full sized/height travel trailer has a lot more aerodynamic drag than an open car hauler.
Trailer tires are rated for 65mph. Overdrive off.
My brake controller is mounted on the lower dash, left of steering wheel. I prefer the right side, but the dash layout makes the left better for my generation truck.
Trailer tires are rated for 65mph. Overdrive off.
My brake controller is mounted on the lower dash, left of steering wheel. I prefer the right side, but the dash layout makes the left better for my generation truck.
Lock out overdrive. Get a Prodigy P2 brake controller with the Ford-specific harness and the required fuses and relays and it's plug and play. Make sure your drawbar has the right drop to keep the trailer level and with that weight you will need a set of weight distribution bars.
I've seen those... Pretty cool!
When I first read thru this, I was thinking full sided TH too!
You will need a pretty good size drop receiver to keep it all level.. You will also have to watch the tongue weight, since the platform is up front and all... Your hitch is only rated for around #500 TW without WD. The longer the drop, the more of a "lever" it acts like, so that'll put more stress on the physical HITCH where it's attached to the truck.. Regardless of what size tires you have...
You may find yourself running in 2nd more than you are used to in the slower mph range, but that's better then lugging down your engine and trans.. I'd rather run higher rpms to maintain a given speed than to run lower rpms and bogging down the whole drivetrain...
While the lower rpms are fine when you are unloaded... Your drivetrain will take the strain by creating a TON more heat... Think of it as riding an old 10 speed bike... When you are in the higher gears, you pedal less, but can easily keep up with the load (you). Say you add a passenger on the handle bars.. (admit it, we ALL did that!) Now, it's harder to pedal in that same higher gear and your legs will tell you that pretty fast.. Switch to a lower gear and you pedal faster, but you can now keep your speed up..
Good luck with it all! Gotta show a pic of it all hitched up!
Mitch
When I first read thru this, I was thinking full sided TH too!
You will need a pretty good size drop receiver to keep it all level.. You will also have to watch the tongue weight, since the platform is up front and all... Your hitch is only rated for around #500 TW without WD. The longer the drop, the more of a "lever" it acts like, so that'll put more stress on the physical HITCH where it's attached to the truck.. Regardless of what size tires you have...

You may find yourself running in 2nd more than you are used to in the slower mph range, but that's better then lugging down your engine and trans.. I'd rather run higher rpms to maintain a given speed than to run lower rpms and bogging down the whole drivetrain...
While the lower rpms are fine when you are unloaded... Your drivetrain will take the strain by creating a TON more heat... Think of it as riding an old 10 speed bike... When you are in the higher gears, you pedal less, but can easily keep up with the load (you). Say you add a passenger on the handle bars.. (admit it, we ALL did that!) Now, it's harder to pedal in that same higher gear and your legs will tell you that pretty fast.. Switch to a lower gear and you pedal faster, but you can now keep your speed up..
Good luck with it all! Gotta show a pic of it all hitched up!

Mitch
Last edited by MitchF150; Jun 24, 2011 at 01:44 PM.
I mounted mine down near the pedals. Just above them and to the left. Between e-brake and brake into the plastic. Will take a picture later. They can only be mounted at certain angles so I went with the one that is closer to flat. Looks clean actually.
Thanks for all the replies! Yall have been really helpful. Ive been on forums forever just never really got on this one. I actually bought HighOn22's old truck before he got the 250. This is also my first ford Ive owned. Always had chevys... But after owning this 150 Im seeing the light! lol. I have an 8in drop hitch which brings the hitch down level with the trailer.
Lock out overdrive. Get a Prodigy P2 brake controller with the Ford-specific harness and the required fuses and relays and it's plug and play. Make sure your drawbar has the right drop to keep the trailer level and with that weight you will need a set of weight distribution bars.
http://www.etrailer.com/bc-2006_Ford_F-150.htm is where I got mine. Make sure you get proportional style.
Amazon.com also has them, but the f 150 wiring harness is sold seperate there whereas etrailer sells as package. Install takes five or ten minutes with the proper harness.
Amazon.com also has them, but the f 150 wiring harness is sold seperate there whereas etrailer sells as package. Install takes five or ten minutes with the proper harness.
Last edited by jerrybizzle; Jun 24, 2011 at 05:33 PM.





