Im looking at upgrading to a 24ft box trailer to tow my racecar with. Im currently using a 16ft open trailer and packing stuff in the back of the truck, but some recent experiences (both on and off the track) have really made me aware of how much more convenient/secure an enclosed would be.

Truck is a:
2010 F150 SCREW King Ranch 2WD 145" WB
5.4L V8
3.55 H9 coded rear end
535 option code for towing
15,300 GCWR

Based of the Ford "guide", that gives me 9800lbs for towing. GVWR is 7100lbs, payload is 1750lbs.

Sources:
http://www.ford.com/trucks/f150/2010...tions/payload/
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...vF150sep09.pdf

Now, lets make an assumption that I buy a trailer with v-nose and a WD hitch tomorrow.

Based off what Ive been looking at, for a 24ft enclosed trailer with 2 3500# axles, it has a payload rating of ~3500lbs once all is said and done. Im planning on loading that trailer with:
1992 Miata (~2200lb in race trim)
2 sets of wheels/tires (~260lbs)(would generally only be one set, but Im figuring worst case scenario)
10 gallons of gas (70lb)
Toolbox (70lb)
Coolers (50lb)
Camping Equipment (100lbs)
AC/Heat unit (100lbs)

That gives me a trailer weight of approx 6400lbs.

Using a 15% tongue weight, that makes my tongue weight 950lbs. That leaves me approximately 550lbs (using a conservative 1500lb payload rating) in the truck. But, most the stuff would travel in the trailer. Looks like I am comfortably under GCWR, max payload and tow rating. Not sure about GAWR.

Am I off on my math here? Im not finding an issue with towing this type of trailer. The only thing that may be questionable is the trucks wheelbase. I realize its not going to be a rocketship when towing, but the longest distance Id tow is ~375 miles to Mid Ohio or Road Atlanta. Yes, I know the absolute best Ill probably do is 10mpg.

Thoughts?

 

You should be fine unless you are lifted with big tires. Your performance and possibly gas mileage will be better if you regear to 4.10's.

 

Yeah, I forgot to mention, stock wheels and tires.

I had considered a re-gear to 4.10. How much does that usually cost, and how much of a hit will my gas mileage take for the other 90% of the unloaded truck driving?

 

Re gearing is more on the expensive side because of all the labor. If you can do it yourself do it and you will save yourself some money. I have a 03 Excursion V10 with 4:11 gears. At first we used it for towing our wakeboard boat and it got something like 14mpg but then my little brother got his license so he started driving it and now it gets around 8-9 mpg because of his led foot. The mpg you will get with your re gear will depend on how your driving.

Other things to consider are trailer brakes (if not already equipped) and maybe some add a leafs depending on if it sags or not.

 

I might try the 3.55 to start with a consideration for the 3.73 before I jump to the 4.10 in that case.

Labor for me is a piece o' cake.

Trailer brakes are squared away (have the integrated controller).

Ill add airbags to the short list though, they might come in handy.

 

3.55's to 3.73's isn't worth the expense. You have to go to 4.10 to make it cost-effective. Gas mileage shouldn't suffer much, if at all.

Labor is NOT a piece o'cake unless you are experienced at setting up gears. Gears and labor are about $800 per axle.

 

Id say you will be just fine. Just hope your not fighting a headwind. Im looking at hitting Mid-Ohio sometime this summer to. After i get back from the Glen.

 

Id say Im a little more than experienced.

I have a case that looks exactly like this before I swapped out to the stronger gear set.

I would love to do the Glen one weekend, but its an 11 hour drive for me.

 

It's 16 hours for me! And we go to VIR every year 14 hours

 

Give 'er! I do that all the time with my '07 screw 5.4

 

Yeah, Im not going to complain about my proximity to VIR.

Which axle do you have?

 

Well, I found a blazing deal on a 24ft V-nose with 5200# axles and radial tires. Might be picking it up soon.

Now if someone would just buy my open trailer.

 

I would say go with bags instead of add-a-leaf since I believe u said u have stock setup. Air bags will keep close to stock rake at minimum pressure where the aal would increase rake. I got mine for under 200 shipped and weren't bad at all to install. Air lift brand ride rite from autoanything.com. check my profile to see how well they work. I tow with 3.55s and have 285/70/17 tires and do just fine. Ur trailer will weigh more than me but total will be about the same.5000 Pound tt with about 900 pounds of toys in bed. I realize I may be over weight limits but I can't afford a toy hauler right now.

 

Picked it up this weekend. First 10 miles were the most white knuckled Ive had with a trailer behind me, ever. 40mph wind gusts were not fun coming down the mountain with only the F150 sway control, which I did manage to activate a few times. I have to say one thing, it does do its job.

After that, it was smooth sailing all the way home, well, except for the 11mpg on a 26 gal tank.

Next up is the e2 WDH, finishing the interior, and hopefully my first event with it in June.

 

11 mpg towing that rig with that truck is quite good!