I am planning on hauling a small popup camper on my F150, but have been having trouble finding tie down bars that attach to the frame. The belly bars hang to low, so I was hoping to find some split mount style tie downs that would also work with a factory installed receiver.

Has anyone installed a split mount style camper tie down system? Where did you buy the tie downs?

 

I'm haulin' a 600lbs. camper right now and I am useing the HAPPIJAC anchors. They attach to your bumper, and you have to drilla hoe in the side of the box and it attaches to the box frame. It has held up very so far, but you do have to drill those holes in the side of the box. I went with them because the belly bar was not an option for my 2WD. You can reach them at 801-544-2585, model #CA-FD7. Hope this helps.

 

I hope this information will help those trying to find an alternative to the "sheet metal mounted" tie downs.

I found a source for split frame mounted tie downs for a F150 called Billis RV Equipment MFG Ltd. They are in Kelowna BC Canada, (250)769-4366, FAX 769-7311.

I have the factory receiver installed on my 2001 F150 so I ordered and just received the following kits, 3032 rear, and 3029 front. Without the factory installed receiver, it looks like the 3031 is used on the rear. Combined cost was $140 Canadian through a distributer I have an account with, (less than $100 US).

It is too cold to work outside in the garage where I am, but a mock fit up indicated that I will be doing some grinding on some of the brackets that bolt to the frame to increase clearances. Nothing that is scaring me off from doing the bolt on installation myself.

The front mounts mount to the C channel frame with "J" hooks. I am concidering adding my own 3/8" bolt holes to the bracket and through the truck frame to better locate and prevent possible twist/movement of the front mounts.

The rear mounts clamp to the underside of the receiver hitch, with bolts. But I did have to move the factory installed receiver forward to make room for the rear bracket mounting bolts. I also have to notch the top mount plate to clear the rear bumper mount brackets. Nothing a grinder will not take care of.

I hope to have the brackets mounted by the end of April. I will post how it went.

[This message has been edited by Yaroslow (edited 03-31-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Yaroslow (edited 03-31-2001).]

 

Hit the wrong button.

[This message has been edited by Yaroslow (edited 03-31-2001).]

 

Just finished reworking and installing the split camper mounts from Billis RV Equipment Mfg Ltd.

Took alot of grinding to get them to fit with clearances I was comfortable with. Also changes all the hardware to grade 5 zinc plated, and added four holes and bolts to the front mounts. Was not to sure of the J bolts preventing the mount from pivoting.

In the end, I am happy with them. They are stiff, do not hang down any lower than the exhaust, and tuck in under the body without the extensions installed.

I took a couple of digital images. If you want to see what they look like, let me know your email address, or how I can post it on this message board.

 

Here are the mods required for the Billis RV split mount tie downs.

The following mods were required on the front mounts: (Note that I have a 2001 F150 ext cab SB)
* Relocated the hose and tube holder on the drivers side approximately 4 inches forward. Just in front of the 1+ inch diameter hole. You have to drill two holes, one for the bolt and one for the holder's tab. It is tight between the fuel tank and frame to slide the holder, but once the tape on the tubes is removed, it moves easily. (My tie down did not have a clearance hole, and I wanted to have flexibility to position the tie down.)
* The driver side removable plate was occupying the same space my parking brake cable occupies. I cut off the tabs welded to the plate and tube, and had a friend weld a new "elevated" tab on the tube and changed the angle of the tab on the plate. I then used two 1.5 x .25 steel tie bars and four 3/8 bolts to connect the two tabs. I did not like the idea of welding after bolting as suggested by the instructions. Using a steel tie bar on each side of the tabs and 4 bolts gives me enough confidence that I will be OK. The passenger side did not require modification of the welded in place gusset.
* My tie down brackets only have one hole in the top, and two in the bottom. The instructions indicate two on top and enough J bolts are shipped for 4 holes.
* I increased the length of the slots for the J bolts 1/4 inch in the direction away from the center of the plate (top upward, bottom slots downward). The J bolts seem to be better aligned now.
* I chamfered (angled) the top corners at 45 degrees X 1 inch to increase clearance with the box and cab underside. If two top holes, this may not work.
* I used 1/4 X 1.5 X 6 inch steel bar as spacers between the truck frame and the tie down plate. One above the indent and the other below the indent in the frame surface.
* Since I was not sure if the J bolts would prevent rotation of the tie down, I went to the trouble of drilling 4 holes through each tie down plate, the 1/4 inch thick spacer bars and the truck's frame. (This is the other reason I relocated the tube and hose holder forward.) Two holes is probably sufficient, but I had rented the right angle HD drill for 4 hours and thought I may as well make it easier to assemble by having four bolts holding the plate and spacers in position and then reinstalling the J bolts. I placed the holes 1 inch from the top and bottom edge of the frame/spacer top and bottom edges. (I used the J bolts to position everything, then drilled.) Watch for hoses and wire harnesses when drilling. Also move them out of the way to ensure clearance with the bolts. Also be careful not to drill to far forward like I did on the top and bottom. There is a bracket that is riveted to the frame and it was too close to my bolts. I ended up having to bend the corner of the riveted bracket to be able to install the bolt.
* Replaced all non plated hardware with grade 5 zinc plated hardware, including the J hooks. (That is why they look to long. Just bought what was on the shelf at a hardware store and used a few extra washers.)
* Do not over tighten as they warn in the instructions. I was able to spread open the J bolt with about 30 ft-lbs of torque.
* Sanded and gave the brackets a fresh coat of paint.
* Used asphalt based undercoat spray to touch up the truck frame.
* Installed the bracket using 3/8 bolts that I drilled holes for. Aligned them to be level with the truck and spaced the same front to back, then torqued them down. Then installed the two tie bars, one on each side of the tabs. Before torquing the tie bar bolts though, I lifted up on the end of the tube to bias the bolts in their holes. Then installed the J bolts and double nutted each with a split ring lock washer.
* The vertical clearance to the underside of the box is 1.25 inches (top of fixed tie down bracket to sheet metal). 1.5 inches clearance to the extension that was not yet installed. (Have to drill a hole to tuck them in closer to the body.) The tie down's tube is about 5 inches back from the cab, therefore you should not have a problem with the steps. Very stiff, and expect them to be trouble free.

The following mods were required on the rear mounts: (A lot less work. Have factory receiver.)
* I loosened the factory receiver and moved it forward before retorquing to gain clearance for the tie down mounting bolts between the hitch and the bumper.
* I relocated the trailer wire connector bracket approximately 3 inches toward the center of the hitch. I stayed off the corner, drilled and tapped a new hole, even though it is a self threading bolt.
* I rounded one corner of the top plate to a radius that matched the washers. (I used thick washers for 5/16 bolts.) This allowed me to position the tie down as far out board as possible.
* I ground out a half circle at the center of one long edge of each top plate to clear the bumper mount bracket. It was approximately 1 inch in radius and 1 inch deep.
* Sanded and gave the brackets a fresh coat of paint.
* Replaced all non plated hardware with grade 5 zinc plated hardware.

You may have noticed a bolt and nut on the top surface of each fixed tube. I drilled and tapped the holes to allow me to use a 1/4-20 bolt to "wedge" the extension tube so it does not rattle when not using the camper.

I have a few mods to yet make to the tube extensions. One is to pop rivet on the plastic end caps. Cut off the chain supplied leaving the link welded to the tube (Want a quick connection.) And as suggested, When I mount the camper, I have to drill a cross hole in the front extension tubes so I can tuck them in.

Hope this helps others.