I can't find information anywhere as to what the max is that I can tow. I have some questions and I know you guys have the best answers

MY Truck

07 FX2 Sport Screw (4 Door) with tow package
5.4 V8 3.55 gears
Factory 20" Wheels


My questions forgive me for my stupidity.


1. What is the max amount of weight I can tow?

2. What is a good brake controller brand? How does it work? Is it easy to install

3. Can I install the 7 Pin adapter myself? If so where does it go? What kind of trailer is it needed for.

4. I bought a Reese hitch receiver (with ball) from autozone which is rated for 5000lbs. If the tongue weight of the trailer I may be buying is 5000lbs should I purchase another hitch receiver? I think the trailer actually has a 2000lbs tongue weight.

5. This is one of the trailers I was looking at. I can't find the curb weight on it. Can anyone of you pros tell me what it is.

http://www.haulmark.com/php/products...model_id=70121


HELP ME PLEASE

 

Here is my take on it...

1. go here and you can find the numbers.. But, make sure you also read the little foot notes and match up your exact drivetrain and cab type. https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/rv_trailer_towing/default.asp

2. Prodigy. They have a 'new' model out, and I've not used it, but the 'old' one is wonderful and it's all plug and play if you get the Ford harness at the same time.

3. If you have the "tow package", then it should already be back there? If all you have is the 'flat four' connector, then you don't have the TP and someone just added the frame mounted hitch. If you don't have it, get the Ford one and it'll plug in where the flat four one does along the frame rail near the spare tire. It's easy...

4. You have the 'tongue weight's mixed up some I think.... What they are talking about is the jack itself is rated for up to #2000... That trailers GVWR is #7000, so if you ever load it up to it's max load, then you will need a Weight Distribution Hitch setup. If you want to just plunk the trailer on a ball, then you are limited to around #500 tongue weight and #5000 trailer weight. With WD, it can be as much as #1000/#10000 depending on the specific ratings on the hitch you have.

5. Sorry, can't give you any specific info on this, but if I had to 'guess', I would say it probably weighs around #2500-#3000 all by itself. Allowing you to put in about #4000-$4500 of 'stuff' in it.

Now, my personal opinion on this is if you just plan on hauling the 4 wheelers in your pic, you should be fine in just hitching it up and going.. If you want to haul a car or anything really heavy that will get you to the max weight on the trailer, then you will need the WD for sure and then you'd still be ok for the most part in towing, but it'll work at it...

I should also add that you will want to make sure you have a trans cooler.. you should, because you have the 5.4, but double check that... It'll be up front behind the grill. You can't miss it if you have one...

Mitch

 

Mitch thanks for the response. I'm surprised that no one else has responded, lol. I'm sure I have the tow package. I do have the trans cooler up front. I will double check my window sticker. I have the standard 4 plug in the back of my truck but they also gave me a 7 pin ( I think that's what it is). I will not be hauling a car. I just want to buy a trailer that I can pull my two quads in or quads, street bike and hopefully soon to be dirtbike, lol. In this case I may not even need brakes but according to NC law I think that any trailer over 2500lbs must have its own brakes. If so than I want to follow the law. Can someone chime in on how to operate the brake controller. I'm a rookie when it comes to towing but hopefully I can get rookie of the year, lol.

 

I will take pic of what I have later on today. One other thing. The chart is a little confusing. For my truck If I follow the GCWR for 13,000 there isnt anything available under the 4x2 Screw. If I follow the 14,000 one across there is 8500 & 8400 depending on wheel base (138.5 or 150.5). How do I find out my wheel base. All I know is that I have factory 20's

 

yeah, I'm surprised you didn't get other's either...

Well, I'd say by looking at the 'chart', you will follow the 3.55 geared, Super Crew and then depending on your wheel base (you can measure from rear wheel hub to front wheel hub and that's the WB). but, lets just say you have the shorter WB for examples sake, which actually give you a 'tow rating' of #8200.. Now, the first foot note says you have to subtract #500 if you have the 18" or 20" wheels... So, now you are down to #7700.. Ok, that sounds good on paper, but if you read the "note" part as well, you will end up having to reduce that figure even more...

Now, since you are not going to get anywhere near that "tow rating" figure with the trailer you have in mind, even if you load it up to the gills, you could still exceed your other trucks weight ratings pretty quick...

The only way for you to know where you are at now, is to get your truck weighed. Preferably, the individual front and rear axle weights. Compare that to the listed ratings on your truck door jamb sticker... Add the two together and that gives you your trucks GVW. What ever is left from your trucks GVWR is how much additional 'payload' you can add to the truck.. Lets say for sake of example, your truck weighs #6000 with you and some stuff in the truck as well as a full tank of gas... Your trucks GVWR is probably #7200, so that leaves you with #1200 of additional stuff you can add to the truck.

That trailer you have in mind probably has around a #300 tongue weight as it sits EMPTY. Good deal, that now leaves you with #900 of stuff you can add in.. Now, you load up those quads, a dirt bike and some tools and gas cans (making sure you load most of it up front, so the trailer tows better) and now you've added, say, #1000 total pounds.. Your tongue weight will increase to say #400.. Still ok for just plunking it down on a standard ball. Now, you can still add around #800 of stuff to the truck.. Add a couple more people, and their stuff, and you will find that 'payload' figure go down pretty fast!

So, to sum up this combo, you have around a #4000 loaded trailer with #400 of tongue weight and probably another #500 of people and gear in the truck... You are pretty much at your trucks GVWR by now, and you are not even close to that "tow rating" of #7700....

Most people only concern themselves with that "tow rating" figure and then precede to load up the truck to the max and load the trailer to it's max and then wonder why the truck can't get out of it's own way when they are towing it!

Even towing that trailer EMPTY, you will want to have a brake controller! If you get the Prodigy with the optional Ford pigtail connector, then it's just plug and play and then follow the instructions to the letter on setting it up and you will be fine.

Load that trailer up so you have more then #500 tongue weight, then you are WD hitch land and that's another topic on it's own!

So, get the trailer, get the Prodigy, set it up and tow it around and see how it feels and go from there... You will be fine on weight, even if you max out that trailer, but you WILL know it's back there!

Mitch

 

I have a few other questions?

Which Prodigy model do you recommend? I know that you say they have a new moedel but which one is it. I've been looking at the Tekonsha P3, is that it?

I got a little bit of what your saying. Let me make sure that I have this correct. According to the chart (150.5 wb) will give me a towing rate of 8400. Being that I have 20's I have to subtract 500 from 8400 which will leave me with 7900lbs. In this example my GCWR would be 14K (what isnt there data for the 13K GCWR 4x2 SCREW). The trailer in the link has a GVWR of 7000 (meaning the trailer weight + load can not exceed 7000. Let's say the trailer weighs 3000lbs and the two quads together weigh 1000lbs. That's 4000lbs.

1. Will I notice the truck having trouble pulling this is any?

2. Using this example above would your recommend that I switch out my Reese receiver? which is rated for 5000lbs. (when the receiver says that its rated to 5000lbs is that for the weight of the trailer tongue of the whole trailer weight.

3. Which trailer? Pace American, Haulmark of other. The reason I through those two out is b/c I've heard so much about them


I truly appreciate your time and help. I'm trying to fully understand this. Thanks


Just for our Info

I found a Pace trailer the same size with better specs and the curb weight was 2000lbs. If that's the case it will put me in the 3000 lbs range with the trailer and quads.

 

Mitch knows his stuff and I usually agree with his opinions as well as the facts he lists. His messages are usually thorough and complete. I have little to add when he responds, here and elsewhere when it comes to towing/hauling.

You are interested in a standard 16' tandem axle enclosed cargo trailer. Weighs probably 2500 pounds empty. Sport quads are ~400 pounds each, utility can be as much as 800 each. Street bike, 400 to 800 pounds, dirt bike <400 pounds. if you put 2 heavy ATVs, and two bikes in ,you'll probably be under 3000 pounds, plus extra equipment/parts/fuel, etc. I feel confident in saying you'll be under 6000 pound worst case for everything you can think of carrying, in which you should be fine with your truck. Weight distributing hitch would be a good idea for over 4000 pounds which is where you'll be close to with 2 sport quads and equipment.

If you have the 7-pin connector from the factory, you have the tow package.

As for what wheelbase you have, do you know your bed length, 5.5' or 6.5'? That will correlate to the wheelbase.

Tekonsha Prodigy is great. The P3 adds a nicer display and diagnostics, but the braking performance is the same as the regular Prodigy. I do not know the cost delta.

Cargo trailer brands: Are you looking new or used? Where do you live? Might want to check out www.cardinal-sales.com to compare prices for factory pickup. My father in law went that route to save $1k 5 years ago for his 7x14 tandem. I dunno current prices and you have to call to get them now. FWIW, under $3400 at the time, but raw materials have gone up a bunch in 5 years.

 

Yeah, on the Prodigy, it's the "P3" one that's the 'new' one. I don't know what they go for now, but when I bought my 'old' Prodigy, I paid $150 for it, but I feel it's worth every penny of it! Yes, I know I could have gotten it cheaper, but I was in the store, it was in the store and that's what the price was (including the Ford pigtail), so I just got it at that time..

Also, don't get all hung up on the 'tow rating' for your truck.... Yeah, it's nice to know what it is for talking around the camp fire with your buds, but it's really not applicable or achievable in the real world of towing, as you will be carrying more stuff in the truck and your truck will weigh more then it's listed "curb weight" and that's where that 'tow rating' is derived from... It's all for marketing and the brochures.... If you read the 'note', it'll state that you also can't exceed your trucks GVWR or the front or rear GAWR either, so hitching up an #8000 trailer will in most cases cause you to exceed one or all of those other truck ratings..

1. Yes, you will know it's back there. The truck will work harder to pull it. Even when it's empty, you will know it's back there... You will downshift on the hils and you will slow down as well.. Main thing to remember is don't try to drive the truck the same way you do when you are running solo... Towing performance is very subjective from person to person, so you just have to find out what you like or don't like about how your truck performs and adjust from there. Some things you can 'adjust' for and others is having to just deal with, or you have to get a bigger truck with a diesel in it.... But, for the most part, you just have to keep your expectations in line with what you are towing...

2. If you are talking about the frame mounted hitch part, then it should be fine. It should be rated for Class 3 (500/5000) and Class 4 with a WD hitch setup for (1000/10000). If you are talking about the 2x2 square extension where the ball is mounted, then it should be fine up to #5000 as well.

The trailer weight part is the entire weight of the trailer, including the tongue weight. For example, if your trailer has a tongue weight of #500 and the weight of the trailer just on the trailer axles is #4500, then you have a #5000 trailer. Plop that baby on your ball and go.. Once your tongue weight gets over #500, regardless of how much the rest of the trailer is, then you will need to use a WD hitch setup. That's where you have the bars that attach to the hitch head and the A frame of the trailer and it will reduce the sag your truck is going to have with a #500 tongue weight trailer. This makes towing the trailer much easier, then when you just plop the tongue on the ball, because when you do that, it reduces your front axle weight, making your steering feel really 'light'.

The WD setup 'distributes' the weight across your truck and trailer axles, making for a level ride and helps stabilize the whole mess.

But, I don't think you need to worry about the WD part with just the quads and a bike or two...

3. Those are good trailers for sure. I have towed the Wells Cargo trailers in the past, and found them to be very well built and an easy tow as well. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.. Price and location of where you find it would be the only thing you should have to deal with...

Mitch

 

I have the 5.5


Just in case I ever get into the WD setup where do I find it at?

Thank once again.

 

Pretty much type in "weight distribution hitch" in your favorite web search tool and you will have more then enough to choose from. I'm not sure how ordering these things online work, as they are heavy and shipping costs must be rather large?

If you have a local RV dealer around, you can check with them, as they usually have them for sale to the general public. A standard WD setup with bars should be $250-$350 for the most part. Some setups can run over $3,000 however, so it's all in what you need or want.

There are tons of different brands and models and some offer more or less 'sway control' then others and on and on... That's mostly where the price differences are.

I use a standard ol' EAZ-Lift setup deal for my trailer. Works fine and I don't have any 'sway' issues to speak of. This is one of the most basic setups for WD and it works just fine.

This only scratches the surface of WD hitches, but check em out and read up on them some and come back with more questions if you have any.. it's not that I don't want to list it all out now, but without knowing what you want to know, it'll save a lot of typing!

Mitch

 

Ok cool, Thanks Mitch

Here are the pics from my truck. Where does the 7 pin connector get connected to and what plugs into it.

 

Follow your 4 pin wiring back to the connectors on the frame rail above the spare. That's where the 7 pin plugs in.

 

What does the other end plug into.

 

The trailer?

 

I don't know why I couldn't see the picture yesterday. Those are less than 450 pounds each.

You will not use the 4-pin connector with the new trailer. It will have the 7-pin for you.