thanks!!! now all i gotta do is find a hitch

 

You need a ballmount, a ball, and a set of WD bars like in Mitch's pic - and a wiring harness (unless it's already 7 pin) and brake controller.

When you go looking for a ballmount, determine the inches of drop you need. Back the thing up to the trailer on level ground and set the trailer so it's parallel to the ground and measure the vertical distance between the trailer's ball socket and your receiver.

 

ok... i have a brake controller already and its a 7 pin wire connection. now that being said this will be the heaviest i will ever tow with my truck, so what kind of weight distribution system do i look for? im thinking maybe i could see what they can throw in at the trailer place or see what my work has. any help is greatly appreciated!!!

ps you guys have been a great help!!!

 

I'll defer to Mitch or someone who has worked with WD systems on this. I've never towed anything that big to need one.

 

Many, many brands and styles of WD hitches out there... The popular ones are the EAZ-Lift WD system. That's what I have and It's similar to the pic above, but no built in 'sway control'. Then there is the Reese Dual Cam, and that is what is pictured above. The Equal-i-zer is another style with built in 'sway control'.

My setup cost $250 installed when I bought my trailer, so I got a good deal on it. The Dual Cams go for around $450 and the Equal-i-zer goes for around $500. One thing with the Dual Cam is that you can get just the WD setup for around $300 and then buy the Dual Cam part later for around $150...

I've not used the DC or the Equal-i-zer, but hear they are very good hitches.

Then there are the 'overkill' systems like the Hensley Arrow or the Pullright setup. They run around $3,000!! While I'm sure they are good and do all that they claim, that's just a bit much for my budget!

So, search around on the above models and you'll get a ton more info then I can provide.....

Mitch

 

Looks like you need something like this:

http://www.reeseprod.com/fitguides/d...ID=66087&dlr=0

It's less than $500 US and you do not need a standard drawbar ballmount - this comes with an adjustable one.

 

well guys just to update.

i have bought the trailer it is an 8.5X24 United UXT. the total weight of it with the car in the trailer is 7458# so that still keeps me under my tow rating. and as for the hitch i went with the equal-i-zer and let me tell you wow what a difference it makes, anyone thinking about buying one i strongly recommend it!

thanks again for all the help.!

 

Please keep in mind the towing capacity of the truck is based on the gross combined rating of the truck minus the empty weight of the truck. In other words, if you have a 7700 towing capacity and your loaded trailer weighs 7550, then you only have 150 lbs of available load in the truck for driver, passengers, and gear before you exceed the gross combined vehicle weight. If you are in a wreck and they investigate and find you over your gross combined vehicle weight you could possibly be found responsible for the wreck even if it was caused by something else. There have been stories posted hear before about a fatal wreck that was investigated and they found the driver was just under the gross combined weight. The office informed him, if he was over the weight he could have been charged with a serious felony.

 

ok does this help?

my truck and trailer connected together with us in it was 12892#

 

i went today as well to a scale and weighed the truck with me in it a full tank of gas and the WD hitch in the receiver. The weight was 2430kg = 5346lbs.

 

What is your rated GCVW?

 

where would i find that?

 

For 2003, a Supercab 4x4 5.4L 3.55 axle ratio has a GCWR of 13000 pounds. If you still have your owner's manula, it would be in there.

 

That does keep you just within limits. Did you weigh with a full tank of gas?

You can download an owner's manual if you don't have yours.