Hello everyone,

I'm new to alot of this so I'm looking for some guidance. I have a 2004 F-150 lariat Cre Cab with 5.4 and class III towing package. I am looking into the purchase of a travel trailer. I have read about everyhting I can, but what I am looking for is some general guidance on approximately what length and weight of a trailer would be adequate for this towing vehicle. I don't want to shop for something that is out of my caapacity range,

 

I tow a 26 foot 6,500 lb. travel trailer and it taxes the truck pretty hard. I would not recommend going beyond 75% of your tow rating if you want to be comfortable towing and you want the truck to last very long. Anything more and you should look at getting a bigger truck. It is not just the weight that you have to take into consideration, you also have to consider the wind resistance presented by the trailer. Most travel trailers are about as aerodynamic as a brick.

 

You should also look at the other threads on this page regarding air bags, add a leaf kits and weight distribution bars. I need them with my 20' enclosed utility trailer. You'll need them for sure with a TT.

 

Not true at all.... You will need a weight distribution bars but the leaf kits and air bags are not needed. My uncle has the same truck as him and is towing a 26 foot Sunline travel trailer and has no problem. He has the bed loaded down fully and the truck levels off with the weight distribution bars.

 

And don't forget about all the other stuff that go's with a trailer, My toybox is 4900 empty. But with water, Gas, Propan, Firewood, Toy's, Quad's and all the stuff my wife takes I am pushing it bad. Any trailer dealer will tell you that you can pull a 30 foot trailer easy, Hell they wanted to sell me a 26 foot fifth wheel Said my truck could handle it easy..

19 or 20 foot and that's about it

weight distribution bars are all you will need.

 

I have an older Featherlite 20 foot motorcycle trailer ( Its only 5'9 inside).
It doesnt have the wind resistance and TT has, but I weighed it coming back from the racetrack last month, 11750. The truck tows it fine, with no weight distribution or sway control. Just tow in D

 

11,750 lbs? Are you sure?

 

Make the effort to get a valid weight. Around here we just swing into the weigh station along the highway. Even when closed the scale is active and the display is readable through the window. My philosophy is why guess at the weight when you can know exactly what it is???

Be safe.

 

That 11750 pounds sounds like GCWR, not the weight of the trailer.

Anyay, keep the dry weight rating uunder 5000 pounds and you'll be happy. That 5000 pound rating will be at least 5500 when you bring it home. Then, add water, fuel, camping gear, etc and you'll be at 6500 pounds which is a pratical limit for any 1/2 ton pickup.

 

I tow a 26ft (living space) 28'11" overall Springdale 260tbl 5200lbs (dry) trailer with a '04 5.4 3v SC Lariat. With water, supplies, gear, it comes in around 6500lbs. The truck tows it just fine and I would be ok towing more, I just don't think it is much more. This may vary from your truck based off configuration.

I do have some perf mods (xcalII, AirRaid, Magnaflow) but the truck would do the same 6500 without the mods but maybe just not as fast. I have also added some SuperSprings but not just for towing but for hauling too. They do help with keeping the truck level when loaded and hitched up.

When looking at trailers, mfg will show a dry weight in their specs on websites, brochures, etc. Be aware that that will typically not be the dry weight of your trailer with options. Inside one of the cabinet doors on the trailer will be the true dry weight. From my research it usually is 200-300 more pounds than the standard dry weight.

Check out this website for some guidance on how to calculate what trailer weight range you should be looking at.

Get a tranny gauge at a minimum. I went with the dashhawk based off the fact that I wanted multiple gauges and I was able to get them all in the dashhawk for about $250 and when I priced out the autometer gauges and pod it was around $220. Edge may work if you want gauges and tunes but since I already have xcalII dashhawk was the right choice for me. Make absolutely sure you have a tranny cooler as well.

Oh, and a weight distribution hitch will more than likely be a must depending upon size/weight you go with.

YMMV.

 

I sure appreciate everyone's input. Just for clearification, since I have a class III hitch which has a max travel capacity of #5000 using a weight distribution hitch increases this capacity? Certainly besides looking for a trailer I need to also begin looking at the peripherals required. Any suggestion to type and manufacturer would be appreciated also.

 

If I remember correctly WDH will effectively double capacity (not of the truck, but of the hitch). Usually the bumper or hitch will state capacity with/without WDH so check that.

As far as brands/types go I have a standard Putnam 12000/1200 WDH with sway control. Reese and Curt are a couple of other brands. Types will vary as you have the standard, the dual cam, the Hensley-Arrow and others. Another site you might want to check is http://www.rv.net in the towing or tow vehicle forum.

 

After reviewing other posts led me to see what axle ratio I have and it is 3.55. Should I consider going to 3.73 or 4.10's?

 

If you are going to spend the money to re-gear you should go 2 steps, such as, 3.55 to 4.10. Most people who go one step wish they had gone 2. No sense in paying to re-gear twice. Some shops won't even do one step to avoid dissatisfied customers. I tow a 6,500 lb. travel trailer with 3.73s and I wish I had 4.10s every time I tow.

 

I agree with the two step jump.. I guess lastly, I have Cooper 265/60R18 tires on the truck which are P rated. Based on changing axle gears and this tire size, what should I look at in the LT range and how far off would the seedometer be? Thanks again.