I just looked at Ford's 2004 RV and Trailer Towing Guide and it has separate tow capacities for bumper (receiver) pull and 5th wheel travel trailers so I assume Ford engineers are familiar with the mechanics of towing bumper pull travel trailers. When Ford publishes tow ratings they have a few requirements for obtaining max tow ratings but I saw nothing about short, infrequent, or long trips.
Ford engineers say your 2004 F-150 will do the job.
I'm not saying the F-250 would not give an added cushion of reserve strength but where do you stop? F-250, F-550, Freightliner?

There are lots of things that will make towing a bumper pull trailer better such as buying two 16" or 17" wheels and load range E tires for the rear to use just when towing. (2wd only, might have to do all 4 with 4wd) Those stiff sidewall tires make a noticeable difference in sway reduction. Bilstein or Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks also help. When you get back from a trip, put the 18's back on and you have that smooth, quiet 2004 F-150 ride restored in just a few minutes. Pullrite and Hensley hitch systems are great at eliminating sway but are very pricey at 2,000 to $3,500.

However, if you have the resources and inclination, by all means buy a bigger, less smooth and quiet, thirstier truck and/or a 5th wheel trailer.

Also, I think your wife and child will "encourage" you to carry few gallons of water in the fresh water tank. Mine does. I've traveled with the fresh tank full, half full, and empty and have never felt the "slosh effect".

Dos Centavos from model a

 

model a,

You are correct, Ford engineers say the truck will do the job, and it will.



The difference between the conventional and 5th wheel ratings are where the load is applied and the amount of load allowed, but usually interrupted first by the max GCWR, which is why many of them are same. The ratings have little to do with dynamic trailer mechanics but rather static mechanics and basic dynamic drive train mechanics based on:

First. How much weight the drive train is rated to move down the road.

Second. How much weight can be applied to the receiver hitch maintaining 10-15% tounge weight OR how much weight can be applied to the king pin maintaining 15-25% pin weight. Please note you can apply more pin weight and thus a slightly heavier trailer on a 5th wheel without surpassing the GAWR becuase a receiver hitch has more leverage at the rear of the vehicle. The weight on a 5th wheel, when applied directly over the rear axle does not shift weight from the front axle to the rear like a bumper pull trailer does. Thus the weight that remains on the front axle is the increased load capacity, if the GCWR allows for the increase.



But those are only a small percentage of the mechanical differences of a truck and trailer combination, and the trailer mechanics examined above are static. There are many more dynamic mechanics at work when the rig is in motion.

 

All,

An update to this thread.

I just returned from our maiden voyage. We went from SW michigan to Whitefish Bay in Michigans Upper Penninsula(about 300 miles one-way). The '04 F150 did a fine job, although you knew the trailer was back there. We were averaging 65 MPH. Had a headwind, so MPG was about 7 going up, and about 10 coming home - good thing the gas tank is 37 gals. At 65, the tach was settling in around 2500 or so, which was pretty comfortable. Ran without cruise most of the time(except to rest the foot on the flat and level), ran with O/D on most of the time, but the tranny settled in out of O/D, so next trip will just leave O/D off. The owners manual in the '04 is a little vague, other than saying if the tranny is searching for gears alot, to use the next higher gear.

The only other question I would have is does anyone know(I didn't see it in the owners manual), is if the torque converter locks up when not running in O/D? Not a biggie to know, just curiosity.

Thanks, Dave

 

Yes and no..... It'll lock and unlock in OD too..... It'll do it in second and third gears for the most part.

The only way I've truely been able to tell is by either the tach or the trans temp gauge.

By the tach, if it's unlocked, and you give it some gas, the rpms will rise, but you really won't see any speed increase. If it's locked, and you give it some gas, you won't see any increase in rpms.

The trans temp will rise very fast in the unlocked situation, so that's my first indication that it's not locked because that's what I'm watching for the most part.........

Good luck!

 

I installed a vacuum gauge along with the trans temperature gauge. Now, I have a little better indication as to when the OD to 3rd downshift is about to occur. If I am near the crest of a hill I can back off a little to avoid a downshift (if traffic allows).

model a