I recently bought a new car trailer with electric brakes. The electric brakes are on the rear of the double axles only. Problem is, when I apply the brakes on my Tekonsha Voyager brake controller, it seems that the power to the brakes isn't strong enough. I have the power turned up high and at the highest sensitivity level but the brakes aren't stong enough to skid when the trailer's empty. The controller's new too, I just recently installed.

The brake drums do get hot after repeated braking, so I know it's at least working. But I want more power since the combined tow weight w/ the car loaded is around 5,000 lbs.

Are there other ways to adjust this, or do I need brakes on the second axle?


Warren.
'97 F-150 Supercab w/tow pkg

 

I have a dual axle trailer with electric brakes, weighs 4100 pounds, also have a tekonsha voyager. Did you park the vehicle with trailer attached on a level surface and then step on the brakes and turn the adjustment **** on the right side to the point where the lamp turns red, then back if off a tad? Use the left side to fine tune. My set up works great, yours should too.

 

Thanks for your input whitengray,

Yup, did the same steps to adjust it. Tried about a dozen times. It's at the full setting. I can actually hear the brakes engage with a sort-of "clackering" sound.

A friend of mine told me that the electric brakes don't give a whole lot of stopping power, just enough to slow down or to straighten the trailer if it sways. I was concerned about mine if it had enough stopping power because I read somewhere that if the adjustment is too strong where the tires are skidding, to then back it off--I can't even get it to skid when the trailer's empty. This is the first time I'm dealing w/ electric brakes, I've had surge brakes on another trailer and it gave good stopping power. So perhaps I'm too optimistic about it's potential.

When I find some extra time, I'm gonna check out the brakes themselves by pulling the wheel and the drum. I just want to make sure everything is fine on this new trailer.

Warren
'97 F-150 Supercab w/tow pkg.

 

I can adjust mine so that all 4 tires on the trailer will skid. In an emergency I can hit the panic bar and lock all 4 wheels on the trailer. Keep in mind our trailer has 4 12" drums for brakes. I am so glad they are there and that I can lock them. A few summers ago we came over a hill on a 2 lane rain slicked road and there was a truck stopped just over the crest of the hill. I hit the brakes hard and the truck started to slide and hydroplane. It did not look like we would stop and the truck and trailer started to jackknife and I had to let off on the brakes. I then hit the panic bar for the trailer brakes. They came on with a bang and jerked us straight and we where able to avoid a collision. After I cleaned my pants we continued on. The trailer weighs about 7000LBs wet.
After this experience I would say make sure you can lock the trailer brakes and I learned to slow down when its raining.

 

CanadianSCrew,

That's what I'm thinking. The brakes should be able to lock if set to max (or manually slide the bar all the way). It's only marginal at best on mine, and when I'm towing the car on it, I could still feel some push. Since it's new, I'll call the trailer manufacturer where I bought it from and ask them the specs on those brakes. Perhaps there's an upgrade to the standard electric brakes that I received.

Warren
'97 F-150 Supercab w/tow pkg.

 

You should definitely be able to lock up those trailer brakes, especially when empty.
My guess is either that the brake shoes are out of adjustment or the ground for the brake circuit is inadequate.
The dealer should be able to find and fix it.

For some real good information on electric brakes, check out the Product Literature link on the Dexter Axle web-site.

 

You definitly should be able to lock up the brakes. Nice thing about the Tekonsha controller is how smooth it operates at all driving conditions including panic stops. The slide bar is a nice touch. I use it now and then to manually apply trailer brakes as needed.

 

Thanks guys! I really appreciate all your input.

Now I'm pretty sure my brakes aren't performing up to par. They feel like they're only working about 1/3 of what it should be. Perhaps oil or grease got into the drums? Going to pull it out this weekend to check. New trailer. Like I said, I can't get it to lock w/ the slider bar alone and set at maximum. So that definately concerns me. I'll be in contact with the trailer shop this weekend to find out what's going on with my brakes. Just gotta make the time from my busy schedule. Whew.

Thanks!
Warren.
'97 F-150 Supercab w/tow pkg.

 

Warren S:

Please make sure you post an update and tell us what you found. It's a good learning experience for all of us, and may make troubleshooting easier for someone else in the future...

 

Will do! I'll keep you all posted on my progress.


--Warren
'97 F-150 Supercab w/ tow pkg.

 

Hi Warren

Dont forget..as mentioned...if e.brakes have manual adjusters...be sure they are adjusted correctly. You may know..but thats the contact area (clearance) between b.shoe/drum.

Im not familiar w/car haulers. Is that standard to have brakes only on one axle? Just curious.

Good luck...OT

 

Hey Old Timer!

Yes, the car haulers come standard with brakes only on one axle. May depend on the manufacturer though. But the choice of brake options are (1) electric brakes on the second axle, or (2) hydralic surge brakes on the second axle. I've towed the U-Haul's before with the surge brakes and they work good. The only problem with these is backing uphill.

Thanks, I'll check those adjusters inside the drums this weekend.

Warren.
'97 F-150 Supercab w/ tow pkg.

 

Well, called up the trailer's guys today where I bought it from. They suggested to apply the brakes while going backwards. This is supposed to automatically adjust those adjusters inside the drum. Sounds easy enough.

So I tried it out. Driving backwards and applying the manual slider. I did this for ten minutes or so. Then tested the brakes. Well, it did seem to make it better, but no lockup. The trailer seemed to be pulling more to one side, so I went out back to check it out. Man, with all the repeated brake applications, smoke was actually coming out the left brake, it was hot. I was dumb enough to touch the drum and burned my finger. But when I went over to the right, the drum was just luke warm, same temp as the wheel. THE RIGHT SIDE BRAKE WASN'T WORKING!

Went home to get out the jack...


Took off the wheel, tried to pull the drum but discovered I would have to pull out the bearing cap to do this...


I looked behind the drum, here's what I found...

I can't believe the moron who wired this! Well, judging by this, I'll bet the solonoid inside shorted-out and is shot. Since the trailer is under warranty, I'm taking it back soon so they can fix this. Believe me, I was ticked-off and still am.

Time to settle down and have a beer. Too much work for one day.

 

Looks like you found the problem. Maybe you can get the dealer to throw on a new set of pads on the scortched side. Nice Car!

 

I have NEVER seen a 10in drum with self adjusters. On the big 12 X 3 1/4 and up they have them.


They have a magnet in them that moves the shoes. Putting the wiring on top of the U bolt was a "Great Idea" .


You may want to check your laws about brakes in the state you live in. Here in IN you are required by law to have brakes on all axles on trailers over 3000lbs. But that doesn't stop them from selling them with brakes only on one axle. So if you get in a wreck you are SOL, even if its not your fault.


To adjust the brakes:
1 empty trailer
2 jack up trailer
3 put jack stand under trailer
4 on the back of the backing plate at the bottom is a plastic plug remove it
5 with your brake spoon roll the adjuster till you can't turn the drum by hand
6 back off 8 turns
7 put plastic plug back in
8 remove jack stand
9 lower trailer
you don't have to remove the rim.