Suspension noise
#1
Suspension noise
My Uncle has a '98 F-150 , 2wd, auto, ext cab, 4.6 .
It has 107,000 miles on it .
Here lately he has noticed a "roar" coming from the front end. It's not really all that loud, and hard to hear under acceleration, but it wasnt there before.
While slowing down, you can put it in neutral and hear it good. He says it has been getting a louder, little by little. When he turns the wheels it kinda changes the sound .
I know nothing about these trucks, F-Bodys and Mustangs are my thing .
So could it be a bearing ? Bad rotor ? The brakes do cause vibration now . But as long as you are going straight the steering wheel doesnt vibrate or anything.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
It has 107,000 miles on it .
Here lately he has noticed a "roar" coming from the front end. It's not really all that loud, and hard to hear under acceleration, but it wasnt there before.
While slowing down, you can put it in neutral and hear it good. He says it has been getting a louder, little by little. When he turns the wheels it kinda changes the sound .
I know nothing about these trucks, F-Bodys and Mustangs are my thing .
So could it be a bearing ? Bad rotor ? The brakes do cause vibration now . But as long as you are going straight the steering wheel doesnt vibrate or anything.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
#2
I does sound like a wheel bearing, but it could also have something to do with the brakes.
The easiest way to check the wheel bearing is to simply jack up the wheel and push and pull to feel if it seems loose. You can also rotate the wheel and listen and feel if there is a rumble.
I had a right front bearing go bad. The way I'd determined this was the problem is that the sound and vibration disappeared when I went into a leftward curve and the weight of the truck shifted onto the bearing. The affects of a bad bearing usually deminish when the bearing is placed under load.
The easiest way to check the wheel bearing is to simply jack up the wheel and push and pull to feel if it seems loose. You can also rotate the wheel and listen and feel if there is a rumble.
I had a right front bearing go bad. The way I'd determined this was the problem is that the sound and vibration disappeared when I went into a leftward curve and the weight of the truck shifted onto the bearing. The affects of a bad bearing usually deminish when the bearing is placed under load.
#3
#4
What's really cool about the 2WD F-150 is that we have servicable bearings. The 4x4 does not and a bad bearing means replacing the entire hub assembly.
The hardest part about servicing/replacing the wheel bearing on a 2WD is simply getting the brake caliper off. The mounting bolts are very, very tight. After the wheel and brake caliper are off:
-Remove the dust cap.
-Remove the cotter pin and nut crown.
-Remove the spindle nut.
-Pull the hub off.
After that, the inner and outer bearings and races can be popped out. If you've done wheel bearings before, it's very simple. If not, the haynes manual has a simple enough explanation. The hardest part is just getting the brake caliper mounting bolts loose.
Technically: our bearings should be cleaned and greased approx. every 30,000 miles.
To tighten: Tighten the spindle nut to 17-24 lb-ft while rotating the rotor counter clockwise. Then loosen the spindle nut 1/4 turn and tighten again to just 17 lb-in (Basically just enough that the rotor doesn't wiggle back n' forth). Whenever the bearing seal is removed, it must also be replaced, so don't forget a new seal.
The hardest part about servicing/replacing the wheel bearing on a 2WD is simply getting the brake caliper off. The mounting bolts are very, very tight. After the wheel and brake caliper are off:
-Remove the dust cap.
-Remove the cotter pin and nut crown.
-Remove the spindle nut.
-Pull the hub off.
After that, the inner and outer bearings and races can be popped out. If you've done wheel bearings before, it's very simple. If not, the haynes manual has a simple enough explanation. The hardest part is just getting the brake caliper mounting bolts loose.
Technically: our bearings should be cleaned and greased approx. every 30,000 miles.
To tighten: Tighten the spindle nut to 17-24 lb-ft while rotating the rotor counter clockwise. Then loosen the spindle nut 1/4 turn and tighten again to just 17 lb-in (Basically just enough that the rotor doesn't wiggle back n' forth). Whenever the bearing seal is removed, it must also be replaced, so don't forget a new seal.
Last edited by AjRagno; 11-08-2002 at 05:30 AM.