Leveling Coilover Decisions
Leveling Coilover Decisions
Hey y'all, this is my first post to the site. Just want to say thanks for all the help in the past. This is my second F150 and I've come here for years for good information that this community offers.
What I need help with is deciding between the three options for leveling suspension on my 2013 F150 5.0 4x4 Supercrew. After a lot of research I decided leveling struts/coil overs are the way to go for me.
I have the Bilstein’s on back order now and they will be shipping at the end of the week unless I call to cancel the order. I am concerned that I won’t see the full benefit of the new shocks and the additional travel if I don’t have the aftermarket UCA installed. I also don’t want my stock UCA to rub on the spring- even though I've read that this isn't really a problem.
I want to level my truck while giving all the suspension and drive train components the best geometry. Can anyone tell me if this is a necessity in my case to get the best geometry with the Bilsteins? I mostly drive on the highway but the truck will need to perform throughout hunting season in the rocky hills of South Texas on rough trails. Option 2 includes the aftermarket UCA’s.
Option 3 is my "why not?" option, at only $700 more I can have some of the best shocks around and beefier UCA's that Camburg insists improves steering and travel geometry. I consider it buying right the first time so I don't have to do all the install work a second time if I want to upgrade.
Please tell me what your thoughts are on the 3 options and weigh the pros and cons. Cost is a concern and I don't want to spend more than the highest option of the Fox 2.0's. I realize this is going to impact my warranty on a lot of components, but I just cant wait to get my truck set up the way I like it. My Ford dealer has already indicated that any aftermarket struts (even the same size) will impact the warranty. I just asked about it today while I was in for an unrelated repair.
I plan on doing the install myself, I have access to a hydraulic spring compressor and lift.
Links are posted too for those who are interested in a similar setup.
Thanks for the input.
Option 1 $363
Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustable front shocks set to 1.75”. Bilstein 5100 rears. ($363 from Shockwarehouse.com)
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2013
Option 2 $1062-$1112
Same setup as above with Camburg UCA’s (Camburg.com $699) or Icon UCA’s (Stage 3 motorsports $749).
http://camburg.com/store/04-08-f-150...ll-upper-arms/
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/985...trol-Arms.html
Option 3 $1800
Fox 2.0 front coil overs with Fox rear shocks and Camburg UCA’s ($1800 Camburg.com)
http://camburg.com/store/kits-09-12-...eries-2-5-kit/
Below are the tires and wheels I'm interested in getting.
Tires $852 ($912 - $60 rebate)
Goodyear Duratracs LT275/70R18 ($228 ea - $60 mail in rebate)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/LT2...n=GDY312012142
Wheels $780
XD Misfit 18x9 6 on 135 bolt pattern ($195 ea)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/XD...PXD80089063700
What I need help with is deciding between the three options for leveling suspension on my 2013 F150 5.0 4x4 Supercrew. After a lot of research I decided leveling struts/coil overs are the way to go for me.
I have the Bilstein’s on back order now and they will be shipping at the end of the week unless I call to cancel the order. I am concerned that I won’t see the full benefit of the new shocks and the additional travel if I don’t have the aftermarket UCA installed. I also don’t want my stock UCA to rub on the spring- even though I've read that this isn't really a problem.
I want to level my truck while giving all the suspension and drive train components the best geometry. Can anyone tell me if this is a necessity in my case to get the best geometry with the Bilsteins? I mostly drive on the highway but the truck will need to perform throughout hunting season in the rocky hills of South Texas on rough trails. Option 2 includes the aftermarket UCA’s.
Option 3 is my "why not?" option, at only $700 more I can have some of the best shocks around and beefier UCA's that Camburg insists improves steering and travel geometry. I consider it buying right the first time so I don't have to do all the install work a second time if I want to upgrade.
Please tell me what your thoughts are on the 3 options and weigh the pros and cons. Cost is a concern and I don't want to spend more than the highest option of the Fox 2.0's. I realize this is going to impact my warranty on a lot of components, but I just cant wait to get my truck set up the way I like it. My Ford dealer has already indicated that any aftermarket struts (even the same size) will impact the warranty. I just asked about it today while I was in for an unrelated repair.
I plan on doing the install myself, I have access to a hydraulic spring compressor and lift.
Links are posted too for those who are interested in a similar setup.
Thanks for the input.
Option 1 $363
Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustable front shocks set to 1.75”. Bilstein 5100 rears. ($363 from Shockwarehouse.com)
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2013
Option 2 $1062-$1112
Same setup as above with Camburg UCA’s (Camburg.com $699) or Icon UCA’s (Stage 3 motorsports $749).
http://camburg.com/store/04-08-f-150...ll-upper-arms/
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/985...trol-Arms.html
Option 3 $1800
Fox 2.0 front coil overs with Fox rear shocks and Camburg UCA’s ($1800 Camburg.com)
http://camburg.com/store/kits-09-12-...eries-2-5-kit/
Below are the tires and wheels I'm interested in getting.
Tires $852 ($912 - $60 rebate)
Goodyear Duratracs LT275/70R18 ($228 ea - $60 mail in rebate)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/LT2...n=GDY312012142
Wheels $780
XD Misfit 18x9 6 on 135 bolt pattern ($195 ea)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/XD...PXD80089063700
Thanks, I looked into the Rancho product, but I'm not too interested. My friend who is lending me hand with the install and owns the garage/lift had the Rancho's with the in-cab adjustment feature and the valving went out on him within 2 years of install on his vehicle.
I'm interested in either the Bilstein's or the Fox 2.0's. Need some feedback about the need for aftermarket UCA's as it pertains to maximizing shock performance/correcting suspension geometry. Sticking with one of the three options above.
I'm interested in either the Bilstein's or the Fox 2.0's. Need some feedback about the need for aftermarket UCA's as it pertains to maximizing shock performance/correcting suspension geometry. Sticking with one of the three options above.
If you're only going off-road occasionally, and you don't plan on doing any "sweet jumps," than I'd say the Bilsteins are a great option. Unlike most spacer kits, you get a set of shocks that are tuned/valved for a slight lift.
Quite frankly, I think all the fretting over suspension geometry is silly. Suspension geometry matters a LOT when you're off-roading and pushing your truck as hard as you can. However, 95% of truck owners never push their trucks to the max. That's just not something most truck owners do...even the guys who think they push their trucks don't really do so.
What's more, concerns about lifts screwing up ball joints are overblown. Do ball joints wear out a little faster if you install a small lift? Perhaps. But a lot of the people who lift trucks drive them aggressively off-road. It's hard to know if their ball joints are blowing up because of their small lift or because of all the driving they do.
Having said all of this, if you can afford it, get the UCAs from Camburg. Those things are awesome. Truck guys who bother to stick their head in your fender well will love them.
But if you're mostly driving down the highway, just go with the Bilstein kit and call it a day. It doesn't really matter.
**BTW, I know it's for Tacomas, but this is a pretty damn good guide to suspension mods: http://www.tacomahq.com/66/tacoma-leveling-lift-kit/
Quite frankly, I think all the fretting over suspension geometry is silly. Suspension geometry matters a LOT when you're off-roading and pushing your truck as hard as you can. However, 95% of truck owners never push their trucks to the max. That's just not something most truck owners do...even the guys who think they push their trucks don't really do so.
What's more, concerns about lifts screwing up ball joints are overblown. Do ball joints wear out a little faster if you install a small lift? Perhaps. But a lot of the people who lift trucks drive them aggressively off-road. It's hard to know if their ball joints are blowing up because of their small lift or because of all the driving they do.
Having said all of this, if you can afford it, get the UCAs from Camburg. Those things are awesome. Truck guys who bother to stick their head in your fender well will love them.
But if you're mostly driving down the highway, just go with the Bilstein kit and call it a day. It doesn't really matter.
**BTW, I know it's for Tacomas, but this is a pretty damn good guide to suspension mods: http://www.tacomahq.com/66/tacoma-leveling-lift-kit/
Thanks for the input, thejman78. I can "afford" the uca's, but I would have to lay low and eat ramen for a few months. I'll give it some more thought, but if I'm going to want them in the future I should just do it now during the initial install.
I think I'm leaning toward the Bilstein's that I already have on order after your post.
I think I'm leaning toward the Bilstein's that I already have on order after your post.
Also, you can totally add UCAs down the road. The upper ball joints aren't going to last forever, and when they go it's a good excuse to buy some Camburgs.
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Several companies make better UCAs like the Camburgs, but they're all $700+. As far as street queens not needing them, I can tell you that with a level, your UCA will hit the spring with normal driving on crappy roads.
The only way the spring and UCA will come into contact is when the wheels are at or almost at full droop. That's very difficult to do on most roads.
Yup, as I said in the other thread, the Bilsteins are all that is really needed. And I'm not sure how you can get full droop on a paved road.
I know you're in Alaska, but even out crappy gravel back roads that jar the whole truck at 30 mph can't get that.
I know you're in Alaska, but even out crappy gravel back roads that jar the whole truck at 30 mph can't get that.
When stock there's no problem.



